Using my gears correctly?

[lantern rouge]

I don’t think I’m using my gears correctly, For my “quickest” cruising on the flat for long periods, I still have 3 cogs left to use, and I am spinning at a high cadence (question later)

Is it just a macho thing that you should be grinding away in “top” as much as possible?

If I change up a cog, I’m struggling to maintain roadspeed ,cadence and lose style/composure.

Do I need to learn technique, get fitter or get the gearing changed?

I also don’t use the inner/smaller front ring –again poor technique/gear management? How do you guys use it?

How do you measure cadence? One complete revolution by one pedal or, count every time a leg moves downwards ie, every left/right movement = a count of two (I’m losing myself now!)

F. W.I .W ,I’ve got 8 cogs on the back and a compact double on the front

The way it’s going , I could save weight and go to a single cog on the front!

 

[Lazy-Commuter]

I count cadence as a complete pedal rotation (rotation of the crank I guess) 'cos it's measured in rpm .. hope that's right. What I actually do is count revolutions for 10 or 15 seconds and then multiply by 6 or 4 as appropriate. I plan to get a computer to do all this for me.

As for what gear to use, it seems to be generally recommended that you spin (pedal fast in lower gear) rather than grind a high gear at low rpm. I've typically seen 80-100 rpm suggested. I'm lucky in that my preferred speed seems to be around 90-95.

Dunno about macho, but I know some people (with strong legs I guess) prefer to push a higher gear slower so I suppose it's best to go with whatever suits you.

I've got 3 x 8, so I tend to go like this. Move off in 2-4, go quickly up to 2-6 and then shift at the front for 3-6 and then use 3-7 and 3-8 on a slight downhill. So I'll tend to cruise in 2-6 or 3-6 depending on conditions, maybe dropping to 3-5 for a time if I need to. I tend to only use the granny ring for the big (for me!) hill away from home and then will go to 1-4 from 2-4 on the way up, dropping to 1-3 if I feel particularly lazy. Rarely use 1-1 and 1-2 these days tho' I used to use them a lot !! Not sure if that helps you really.

 

[jasper]

You measure cadence by counting how many revolutions it takes for one pedal to complete a turn. If you haven't got a computer to measure it, just glance at a watch and count how many times it takes in 10 seconds (then x 6) or 15 secs (x 4), rather than counting for a whole minute.

Can't tell you what gears to use as that's dependant on what setup you have, your fitness and the terrain you are cycling. However, try to keep your cadence around 90, no matter what gear you are in. If that means changing down to maintain it then change, similarily change up if necessary. Don't grind as your knees will feel it sooner or later. You don't have to be in top gear all of the time.

As you get fitter, you will find that you will be using your higher gears more. Out of interest, what gears have you got front and back? (how many teeth, usually wrote on but you may have to count them).

Leave the smaller chainring on as there will be times when you will need it. The weight saving is nothing, especially as I doubt you are racing yet, so no point trying to skim that little bit.

 

[jasper]

Bah! Beaten too it...

 

[gavintc]

No, you are correct. If you are on the flat and cruising along, you should expect to have a few cogs left. Cadence, is measured on each revolution. So, if you are counting, count one leg going down as one revolution.

 

[Lazy-Commuter]

Bah! Beaten too it...

But you said stuff that I didn't and confirmed what I wasn't sure of. So it's all good.

 

[Crackle]

Cadence is the important one LR. Use your gears to maintain your cadence first. Speed comes with excercise and training for it if that's what you want to do. cadence first though. Aim for around 80-90rpm. If you are currently way below that, it make time time to get there. Don't macho out a grindingly low gear, you'll do your knees in.

 

[jimboalee]

Ah.
Gearing, cadence, kW, Cd, coastdowns, cross section area, etc etc ….. Do you really want the technical answer?

 

[jimboalee]

A note about cadence. You can either, 1/ push hard slowly on a higher gear relying on Torque to get the pedals round, or 2/ spin a faster cadence and rely on RPM to produce the power.

The equation is :- (Torque [Nm] x RPM) / 9459 = Power [kW].

You can measure how much power you need by performing a downhill freewheel. Assess your cross section area, the tyre drag coefficient, your vehicle mass and the slope you are descending. Freewheel down and record the fastest speed attained.

If you are really interested, send me a private mail.

From this, you can calc' your Cd. Using Cd, you can calc HP and then kWatts. This is for level ground with no wind speed.

Calculate the gearing on your bike, remembering to couple the correct sprockets with the appropriate chainring. Construct a chart of the cadence required to achieve a speed in each gear.
Associate the power per speed with the cadence in each gear. I find that 130 Watts will be 80ish cadence in a 71" gear for 16 mph. That will get me through an Audax Rando.

Going further, you can approximate calorific expenditure from accumulated power exertion.

In this country, riding a basically circular route, hills are inconsequential and don't need to be considered.

 

[lantern rouge]

Thanks for your responses guys, I appreciate your help.

(was a bit nervous about posting this –didn’t want to appear totally thick!)

It’s a 50-36 compact chainset with entry level Shimano ST, 8 cog cassette.

I’m re assured by your answers that I’m ok spinning in the gears I’m currently using and I’m confident I’m regularly in the 80 -100 RPM cadence area

Now it’s just a case of building up miles, experience and fitness. (sounds easy when you write it!)

Cheers everyone

 

[Crackle]

Good post Jimboalee - Have you seen this

http://www.kreuzotter.de/english/espeed.htm

130 watt average is about what I put out at a 90rpm and a 64ish gear

 

[jimboalee]

Another thought about gearing. If this will make you feel confident.
I ride 200 and 300km Audax. I have a triple chainset with 52, 42 and 30 tooth rings. The bike has a 9 cassette. The 12, 13 and 23 tooth sprockets aren't used with the 42 ring. The six gears on the 42 chainring, 54 to 81 inches will get me through a rando, unless there is a 10% or steeper.
This means my 52 chainring is rarely used. That is 5 ratios, 88 to 117" that I only use on easy downhills to and from work.
I have considered removing the 52 chainring, and using the 12 and 13 sprocket with the 42 chainring, but it's too much bother setting the front mech for saving 2 oz.
I know I look a wuss riding along with the chain on the 42, but I have 190 miles to cover and struggling on the big ring will strain my quads.

 

[jimboalee]

Most of the 'ready reckoners' on the web are just that.
They give options for bike type and riding positions, which selects the 'cross section area' part of the formulae.
However, a small change in cross section area makes a large change in Cd.

Also, the 'calories used by the rider' is always overcooked. The website will be facing a lawsuit if someone faints through nutritional fatigue J

Probably the most influential person to study this is Chester Kyle. He is a GOD.

 

[jasper]

Sometimes you have no choice, you run out of gears/puff (both) lol

 

[hulver]

That Cadence is good, but if you want to build strength in your legs I've found that it helps if you need to try a bit harder.

If you're happy with your leg strength then carry on spinning, but if you want to build it up some more drop down a grind for a bit to work your legs some more.

Just what I've found has helped me anyway.

I used to just sit and spin, but by grinding a bit sometimes the strength in my legs has improved.