Upgrading components on a 531 frame.

[MajorMantra]

It's a matter of taste but I think older steel frames look best with a quill stem (the 7 shaped kind you're talking about). They come in a huge variety of sizes - try ebay or somewhere like SJS Cycles.

Matthew

 

[gbb]

In my upgrade I want to replace the '7' shaped stem for one that can be raised a further inch.... I'm looking at these two following components:

1.1/8"

adaptor

and

stem


Also, the headset appears to be in good health but I would very much appreciate it from those that have done this kind of upgrade to point me the direction of a compatible headset.

One more question, if I may, after removing the fork, I could not remove the ring that sits at the bottom of the shaft and holds a rubber seal before the bearings. It seems that is stuck there or perhaps is not supposed to come out. There is no damage on that but I would like to know if that can be removed if I need to in the future.

Thanks for all the advise.

When i had my 531 powdercoated, the bottom cone on the forks and bottom cup on the headtube were absolutely stuck fast. The powdercoaters preferred they were removed, but as it was, they managed with them in place.
As mine was all going back together as it was, no problem.

I suspect they're an incredibly tight fit for obvious reasons.

 

[gbb]

It's a matter of taste but I think older steel frames look best with a quill stem (the 7 shaped kind you're talking about). They come in a huge variety of sizes - try ebay or somewhere like SJS Cycles.

Matthew

I agree, if you dont get the right stem and bars.
When i made mine up (with a quill / ahead adaptor)...it looked ugly. But that was because i had a god awful cheap stem / handlebars spare setup i wanted to to use up.

I've since fitted a Dawes Galaxy stem and bars, it looks infinately better.

 

[PpPete]

Definitely want to keep that with a quill stem. A modern one would look out of place.
Some fork crown races can be levered off with a screwdriver. Others require specialist equipment. Last time I had one I just took the fork down to the LBS, bought another couple of components I needed and asked if they could help with the crown race, they got this huge beast of a tool out, even with that they struggled, but got it off in the end - and didn't charge me.

 

[Manonabike]

OK, thanks for the information and thoughts.

So I guess the ring I was talking about is called "fork crown"

Having second thoughts with the stem thing..... I found this stem made by Raleigh....

Raleigh Stem

What do you think about this stem?

 

[PpPete]

fork crown race (I think)

That stem has some practical advantages, adjustable position, & front-loading (hence no need to remove bar-tape, brakes, computer mount etc if removing handlebar for any reason)

but IMHO it's just not "right" on a 531 frame.... and believe me I'm far from a purist about period components.

This is kind of thing what you want...and it's one area where ebay really is your friend.

Sure lots of people will disagree with me.

 

[Manonabike]

OK, I will look for one "7" shaped stem on ebay

Thanks for the advise..... I probably would have gone back to the old one in a few months

 

[RecordAceFromNew]

One is supposed to use something like this for removing the crown race on the head tube:

http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.asp?cat=10&item=RT-1

But I managed to do mine by using an old pipe that would fit inside the headtube to catch it inside, while long enough to let me use a hammer to carefully tap it out from the top. I think the one on the fork is generally a bit easier to reach/dislodge.

What you might want to think about first, is that if you are to replace the threaded headset/crown race you will have to install a new set. Because of the pressure fit (and not wanting to mess up the light and seemingly rather delicate alloy of the new Campag Record threaded headset) I ended up buying a headset press, one that looks like the one in:

http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=127

Hope this helps.

 

[PpPete]

I think we may be talking about different things here.

The cups that are on the frame are usually relatively easy to knock out with a bit of old pipe.

I was thinking of the bearing race that is attached to the forks.....If it's really tight on there This is the tool....it's a definite LBS only job - that tool will be ££££

As for pressing the new races into the frame....headset press is good idea if you have a delicate alloy headset that is really really tight. If not too tight or if fitting a steel headset, a length of M10 threaded rod, 2 nuts, and some BIG washers will do the job at much lower cost.

 

[GrahamG]

If you're considering getting all the components separately and want a triple plus lower costs than 10 speed, then consider 10 speed Campag shifters (the front shifting isn't indexed so you have far more flexibility with chainsets and trimming front mechs) and 8 speed shimano at the rear. Campag 10 speed shifters are cheaper than shimano, have non-indexed shifting at the front and are directly compatible with shimano 8 speed at the rear which not only gives you a harder wearing drivetrain but also a cheaper one to replace!

These shifters are bargainous:
http://www.parker-international.co.uk/10705/Campagnolo-Veloce-10-Ultrashift-Ergo-Levers.html

Choose any old triple chainset but note that you'll need a campag triple front mech as the cable pull is different to shimano. At the back, just fit any 8 speed shimano long-cage rear mech and 8spd cassette and you'll be good to go (two clicks on the gear lever will be redundant but that makes no difference at all when limit screws are set properly).

Some great wheel offers here:
http://www.planet-x-warehouse.co.uk/acatalog/Shimano_Wheel_Offers.html

Long cage rear mech on sale (ignore the specs below - they're for the med/short cage version):
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=13596

Alternatively the GS (med cage) Tiagra would also work fine:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=19461

Front mech not quite so widely available at a decent price but here's a couple of options:
http://www.parker-international.co.uk/7236/Campagnolo-Comp-10sp-Triple-Front-Mech.html

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Campagnolo-Ce...sure_cycling_bikeparts_SR?hash=item53de480c06

Cassettes are easy, although if you want anything more than a 12-26 as the largest sprocket then you'll have to fit an mtb rear mech to cope with say an 11-32. Any shimano MTB rear mech for 8/9 speed will work.
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?PartnerID=79&ModelID=1864

 

[GrahamG]

Forgot to add - easily doable for within £300 if a reasonably cheap triple & BB is easy to come by.

E.g. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Campagnolo-Ce...sure_cycling_bikeparts_SR?hash=item5ad5261006
Plus BB - http://www.parker-international.co....oogle&utm_medium=froogle&utm_campaign=pid2327
(I've got a BB tool that will fit that - the campag tool is £30 but aftermarket alternatives are available for around a fiver)

 

[Manonabike]

Wow, some top posts there. Bookmarking this thread now

I'm amazed at the range of tools Park makes. I own a pair of cable cutters made by park and they are top quality.

It's a bit too late for me to go down the non indexed shifter route but it's a good idea for somebody else to follow.

It will cost me a bit more than £300.... got some new 10 spd 105 shifters off ebay for £90, wheels R550 as new for under £80 - chainset + BB for £45 (still in excellent condition) Front + Rear Derailleur and cassette are about £108 - sandblast + powdercoating for the frame £36 and under £20 for the Royal Mail but it's worth every penny I'm having such fun..... even removing the BB fixed cup was fun.... it took me 2 days to get it removed

 

[PpPete]

if you want anything more than a 12-26 as the largest sprocket then you'll have to fit an mtb rear mech to cope with say an 11-32.

Sheldon reckons the road mechs will cope up to a 30T rear (although Shimano say 27T maximum. Thanks to the genorisity of another member donating spare sprockets I am going to able to check this out for myself shortly.

 

[PpPete]

but it's worth every penny I'm having such fun.....

Dare we say it ..... TOLD YOU SO !

 

[GrahamG]

Sheldon reckons the road mechs will cope up to a 30T rear (although Shimano say 27T maximum. Thanks to the genorisity of another member donating spare sprockets I am going to able to check this out for myself shortly.

Good point - I was being risk averse as 11-32 is the most common mtb cassette from what i can tell and experience tells me that doesn't work (changed it hours before leaving for a two week tour!).

SOunds like a great project. Just remember that it's still cheaper than getting everything new, especially with a good quality steel frame, but you get to spec everything yourself.