Upgrading 3x8 to 2x10 Road Bike

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OP
OP
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sotal

Regular
After (probably too much) reading, I've decided to go with the Tiagra 4700. It sounds to be more than enough for me, it should make my bike a bit more future proof, fix the issues I'm having, and give me the range I was after on the gears.

I'm going to start collecting the bits now.

A couple more questions have cropped up in my mind! I've always bought KMC chains, but I can't remember why! Are they still a good buy? Or should I stick with Shimano? If Shimano should I go with the Tiagra spec HG54 or is it worth spending a bit more? Also I can't measure how long I need as I don't have the other bits on the bike yet - I'm going with the 34/50 and 11/34 - will 114 or 116 be long enough?

Thanks
 
OP
OP
S

sotal

Regular
Thanks for the input. What cassette are you running on those?

I'm a grinder and not a spinner - As I mentioned before the front mech is messed up at the moment - I've spent a couple of rides recently where to change to different chain rings I've had to stop and get off and manually do it - so out of laziness it has stayed in the big ring for the whole ride. I keep reading about maintaining cadence but it doesn't work for me, I even find myself shifting up a gear or two when going up a hill to get it over quicker!

I've not run a compact chainset yet - so it will be a learning curve for me but as the range is improved - I should be able to cruise better with the compact and have a lower gear for the hills - so it should be a win win, with the only downside being larger gaps between the gears (although with less overlap this might not even be the case)
 

Sharky

Guru
Location
Kent
One drawback I found with a 50/34 is that I always tended to be in the cross over gears. So to go to the next gear up or down you have to do the campag double shuffle.

I solved this for myself by taking away the FD and replacing it with a single 40t ring. So now have a 1x10 set up.
 

Sharky

Guru
Location
Kent
In the days when my legs were younger and hills were not so steep, it was much simpler. The standard 42-52, with a close ratio block meant that you just stayed on the 42 for all training and club runs and the 52 used purely for racing (TT's). No switching rings continuously.
 

davidphilips

Phil Pip
Location
Onabike
I feel sure somebody will be along to tell me I am riding it incorrectly 😀
Lol, what i usually find the cyclists that say i am doing some thing incorrectly are the ones that are doing most things wrong themselves and really dont know what they are talking about?
 

vickster

Legendary Member
After (probably too much) reading, I've decided to go with the Tiagra 4700. It sounds to be more than enough for me, it should make my bike a bit more future proof, fix the issues I'm having, and give me the range I was after on the gears.

I'm going to start collecting the bits now.

A couple more questions have cropped up in my mind! I've always bought KMC chains, but I can't remember why! Are they still a good buy? Or should I stick with Shimano? If Shimano should I go with the Tiagra spec HG54 or is it worth spending a bit more? Also I can't measure how long I need as I don't have the other bits on the bike yet - I'm going with the 34/50 and 11/34 - will 114 or 116 be long enough?

Thanks
Stick with KMC or Sram chains as they come with quick link unlike Shimano (personally Sram for me, although lbs fitted a KMC which Is fine too)

https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/mobile/sram-pc1051-10-speed-chain/rp-prod51844
 

Ajax Bay

Guru
Location
East Devon
[Replacing an 8 spd triple with a compact 2 x 10] it should make my bike a bit more future proof, fix the issues I'm having, and give me the range I was after on the gears.
Perfectly reasonable to go for it, but just to be clear: it won't be any more 'future proof' (proof against what) and it will reduce (not increase) the range of the gears available.
Another vote for SRAM chains, after KMC under-performance and preference for quicklink to the 'press pin in' method of joining Shimano chains.
 
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OP
OP
S

sotal

Regular
Future proof, as in I can't find a replacement derailleur anywhere for my current setup. They seem to be discontinued and nothing quite fits. There are plenty of compatible units but none of them would accept the large chain ring.

Range wise I will gain extra range with the 2*10 over the 3x8. The lowest gear will be lower and the highest gear will be higher.

The triple has a lot of overlap, iirc the 24 gears was really more like 12 once you took out all the overlap.
 

davidphilips

Phil Pip
Location
Onabike
Could you post a picture of the derailleur? seems strange a replacement is hard to find ? Know when i was into vintage bikes some front (suicide derailleurs) that had not been made for maybe 50 years could still be found in good condition used on Ebay?
 
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ColinJ

Puzzle game procrastinator!
In the days when my legs were younger and hills were not so steep, it was much simpler. The standard 42-52, with a close ratio block meant that you just stayed on the 42 for all training and club runs and the 52 used purely for racing (TT's). No switching rings continuously.
I have to cope with using older legs up steeper hills, but have made things simpler in my own modern variation on that...

I have fitted a triple chainset (48-36-28) and a wide ratio cassette (12-30). I have my 28 ring for longer/steeper hills and I have my 48 for downhills/tailwind-assisted flat riding, but I can stay on the 36 for much of the time. I can do 34 kph (21.5 mph) at my favoured cadence (90 rpm) in the 36/12 and can get up many hills in the 36/30. When I do have to change rings, the steps between them are not too huge. Most of the steps on the cassette feel ok - there are a couple that feel a bit big (15 -> 17 and 21 -> 24) but not so big that I can't put up with them.
 

Ajax Bay

Guru
Location
East Devon
Future proof, as in I can't find a replacement derailleur anywhere for my current setup. They seem to be discontinued and nothing quite fits. There are plenty of compatible units but none of them would accept the large chain ring.
Range wise I will gain extra range with the 2*10 over the 3x8. The lowest gear will be lower and the highest gear will be higher.
The triple has a lot of overlap, iirc the 24 gears was really more like 12 once you took out all the overlap.
https://www.bikeradar.com/reviews/bikes/road-bikes/trek-sl1000-review/
Compatible FD: FD-3304 FD-2030 (band on or braze on) All will "accept the large chain ring" (what are the rings on your triple btw?) unless you've fitted a 54t. Let's assume 52, 42, 30.
Have a play with this gear calculator to refine your choice of cassette. What's the current one? 12-27?
https://www.gear-calculator.com/?GR...21,24,27&UF=2135&TF=90&SL=2.6&UN=KMH&DV=teeth
https://www.gear-calculator.com/?GR...25,28,32&UF=2135&TF=90&SL=2.6&UN=KMH&DV=teeth
You are right: the range will be more - if you fit a bloody great 11-32 cassette.
If you "took out all the overlap" the current triple gives you 16 gears and the compact x 10 would give you 14 (pretty useless metric though).
Best of luck.
 
OP
OP
S

sotal

Regular
The current is an FD-2203 with a 34.9mm clamp.

I couldn't find one the same or a suitable one that would fit a 52T chain ring. I'm sure I could have found something eventually, I think I found a braze on one.

But it was only one part, pretty much everything needs replacing, and when spending that much, I feel better spending a little more and getting something newer.
 
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