Updating an old bike

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DaveyA

Über Member
Hi
I have a Gazelle built with Reynolds 753, frame and forks, that I bought new in the mid 80's. The bike is in really good condition as I have always taken very good care of it so a repaint would not even be required. I would love to update it and ride it again in the summer, nothing too radical, in fact I would be happy if I could fit a compact chainset, and some different gears on a new set of wheels. I would happily keep the Shimano 600 brakes and levers that are already fitted. Brake lever shifters would be nice but the bike came with downtube shifters that are engraved with a Gazelle and it would be such a shame to take them off. So my question is, would it be possible to change to a compact and what type of bottom bracket would I need? If I got some new wheels what block/cassette would the frame accommodate? This is all assuming that the original BB will come out of course. I doubt it has been removed in the last 15 years or so, probably longer actually.
I would be very grateful for some advice on this.
Many thanks in advance.
 

RecordAceFromNew

Swinging Member
Location
West London
Freedom for wheel/cassette/shifter upgrade is determined by the distance between the rear dropouts, what block is currently at the back and what size the wheels are, given it is generally accepted that 753 shouldn't be cold set.

You are unlikely to encounter any significant issue in swapping chainset and bb.
 

fossyant

Ride It Like You Stole It!
Location
South Manchester
No issues as said before swapping to a compact. The only thing you may want to do, depending upon how much you want to maintain the period look, is look at older (new old stock) chainsets. If you aren't that fussed, then any Shimano compact chainset will do you. What speed rear end are you running - can you identify the hub. My Columbus SLX is an '89 but was made with a 130mm rear end.
 

Cycleops

Legendary Member
Location
Accra, Ghana
I wouldn't say there is any significant advantage in using brifters over d/t shifters. Have you checked the BB for play by moving it from side to side? Might just need a regrease. Good luck.
 
OP
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DaveyA

DaveyA

Über Member
Sorry that I haven't had the chance to check the size block that is fitted etc, I will post as as soon as I find out.
As far as I know the BB is fine it has no play and turns quite smoothly. I just assumed that I would need to change it in order to fit a compact.
Could I find a compact that would fit straight onto this BB then? I would still like to take it out to and clean and grease it considering how long it's been fitted.
 

Cycleops

Legendary Member
Location
Accra, Ghana
If you have a square taper BB which is likely then a compact similarly speced should go straight on. You will need a crank remover to get the old one off unless you use a hammer, or use a piece of wood in between. But thats how its done down here! Plus a tool to remove the BB cups. The block shouldn't present any probs with your new setup.
 
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DaveyA

DaveyA

Über Member
"If you have a square taper BB which is likely then a compact similarly speced should go straight on."

Thanks, that's good to know. I will keep an eye open for something suitable. Regarding the block, at present I have a 7 speed 14-28. I am thinking about some new wheels as I am not sure how worn the originals might be and can't be sure how many miles they have done. Would I be better off getting some new rims and using my own hubs and block? I don't know whether modern 700c wheels/hubs and cassette would fit my frame, I have measured between the dropouts and it looks to be around 120mm. My hub is a Mavic 105 if that helps.
Thanks again.
 

RecordAceFromNew

Swinging Member
Location
West London
"If you have a square taper BB which is likely then a compact similarly speced should go straight on."

Thanks, that's good to know. I will keep an eye open for something suitable. Regarding the block, at present I have a 7 speed 14-28. I am thinking about some new wheels as I am not sure how worn the originals might be and can't be sure how many miles they have done. Would I be better off getting some new rims and using my own hubs and block? I don't know whether modern 700c wheels/hubs and cassette would fit my frame, I have measured between the dropouts and it looks to be around 120mm. My hub is a Mavic 105 if that helps.
Thanks again.

The chance of a new chainset matching an existing bb is generally not good, assuming you want the chainset to have correct chainline and not fouling the frame or existing front mech etc, that is.

For example this is a reasonable compact that should not look too out of place on your bike - it requires a 107mm JIS square tapered bb spindle. If you don't know what the spec of the current bb is, it is anybody's guess whether it is possible to find a suitable new compact that matches. The good thing though is that decent new JIS square tapered bb's aren't expensive.

It doesn't make sense that you have a 7 speed block while the rear dropouts look to be 120mm apart. A 7 speed hub should have distance between locknuts of 126mm. It would not be easy, and not advisable for a 753 frame, to fit a 126mm hub between 120mm dropouts.
 
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DaveyA

DaveyA

Über Member
I think that compact would do me, and the BB's are not very expensive, as you say. Thanks for the link, I now have a better idea of what I need to go ahead.
The dropouts probably will be 126mm, I was measuring in a dark shed with a torch in one hand and a tape measure in the other while the wheel was still in place. Not very scientific at all I admit.
So if that is the case, will I have to retain my own hub and block arrangement or are there any modern alternatives that would fit my frame?
 

Cycleops

Legendary Member
Location
Accra, Ghana
When ordering the hubs or wheels the retailer will give different width options. You might also find that your compact comes with BB. Again check the spindle width. It will likely be marked on your old one.
 

Rickshaw Phil

Overconfidentii Vulgaris
Moderator
I think that compact would do me, and the BB's are not very expensive, as you say. Thanks for the link, I now have a better idea of what I need to go ahead.
The dropouts probably will be 126mm, I was measuring in a dark shed with a torch in one hand and a tape measure in the other while the wheel was still in place. Not very scientific at all I admit.
So if that is the case, will I have to retain my own hub and block arrangement or are there any modern alternatives that would fit my frame?
You won't be able to get an accurate measurement without dropping the wheel out. I've tried & it doesn't work (thought my dropouts were 126mm trying to measure with the wheel in place. When measured properly it turned out it was 132mm.)
 
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DaveyA

DaveyA

Über Member
I'll drop the wheel out and then measure it. I really should have done that in the first place. Just laziness, no other excuse^_^
Thanks fellas
 

RecordAceFromNew

Swinging Member
Location
West London
When ordering the hubs or wheels the retailer will give different width options.

Really? For 126mm hubs off-the-shelf?

This is probably as comprehensive a supply as any. Since the OP has 105 already (which if from the mid 80's they come in either screw-on or UG) and wants to modernize I presume no-brand cheapos from ebay or screw-on hubs are out, and so are UG freehubs since UG splined cassettes are obsolete. That leaves the A410s, which firstly are pretty low down in the groupset ranking and secondly when I bought some from CRC a few months ago I had to send them all back because they were all rusty and/or sticky inside.

I think a bit of thought and customisation is required to secure a modern, quality, 126mm rear wheel, if the OP has 126mm dropouts that is.
 
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DaveyA

DaveyA

Über Member
I have measured the dropouts and they definitely are 126mm. I am not at all sure what to do now, I don't want to spend too much on wheels and hubs. The A410 from CRC might be a compromise, I don't mind if I had to clean and repack the bearings. I suppose a complete wheel that will fit straight on is going to be hard to find?
 

simon.r

Person
Location
Nottingham
I'd be surprised if you couldn't spring the rear triangle to accept a 130mm hub. I have read the link from @RecordAceFromNew , but 2mm either side really isn't a lot. It may be worth borrowing a 130mm hub and seeing how easily (or not) it will slot in.
 
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