Unhinged, at any speed! :-)

[LardAbove]

I have just bought a very clean 80's DAWES Kingpin 'folder', met brown.
Unmolested and @£35... A Snip, I reckon!

Not having a lot of room in our flat, I am giving serious thought to a Wooden 'hitching post' to support beneath the split halftube.... Making the bike stand upright but as a 1/2.

When I get posting rights for piccies I shall upload the 'old girl' with some minor mods....

TTFN

LardAbove

 

[LardAbove]

So..... Measure twice, Pie cut once

This works perfectly, allowing me to 'rack up' the 'half-bike' and not worry that it will....
A.. Fall over
B.. Swing open

So FullOfWin
*I shall trim the screws!

LardAbove

 

[LardAbove]

I bought years ago, cheepzies fleebay, a set of 1/4drive deep sockets - I needed 7MM for something in the car...

Well Well Well >>> the 4MM (who would believe it!) is the very ticket for my Weinmann brakes

You can NEVER have too many tools
*on that note* Just bought an 'ultra thin 11MM o/e' for locknut duty, on my Weinmanns @£3.60 delivered!

Elsewhere, I contemplated alternative/upgrade brake sets.... I am going to clean & adjust these and get some sewing machine oil down the cable sheaths. Some heavy stopping testing will be done [front does all the work/crash stop] and possibly consider 'super trick' brake blocks *I may flat sand the skin off these old/originals

LardAbove

 

[12boy]

I buy cable housing by the foot and cables themselves are cheap.

 

[LardAbove]

I dismantled the front brake cable/lever/cable pinchbolt.
It has a soft metal 'bullet', on the lower cable end, but I sidecuttered that off, squeezed it round and is ready to slip back on.

The cable is excellent and the sheath too >> lubed up with lightest smear of moly grease... Slips like butter

The horseshoe arms are free and pinch/release freely.

The cable routing (out of the fine adjuster and down into the pinchbolt) is not 'straight line'.... I have sacked off the pinchbolt and replaced it with a custom drilled bolt, with the cable just a bit more directly taking the 'pull'... I am using a 2screw electrical brass terminal as the cable locker [used for years by me on carb cables].
*update >> slight cable slippage on 'full pull' cured by slipping an extremely thin and long selftapper into the sleeve, with the cable.... Bite + Crush = Locked!

I would be doing more but, taking the bike outside and with the rain.... Small Steps!

LardAbove

 

[LardAbove]

I have taken the long, rear brake cable assy out of the frame (it is routed inside the hinged tube) and stripped the inner out.... Showing some oxidation but not KrustieRustie!
Same lashing with moly grease and much zipping back & forth has it 'slippery as lard!'

Weather [finally] looking to be fair & warm for this weekend so - brakes fully activated - I'm looking for heading out on my first >>WobblyBob

LardAbove

 

[LardAbove]

Finally......

Here we have the 'hookie wire' needed to catch/pull the string >>> needed to noose/drag the rear brake cable through the two tube holes

Ready for the Road! *needs bell refitting & That Saddle will be going

50PSI indicated by my pump and they didn't 'pop'..... we will see what happens down the road

LardAbove

 

[ericmark]

I do like your stand, I have just bought my first folding bike, had 1 km on the clock, but second hand, and I have found some faults, like would not select first gear, so had to adjust the derailer. It is now the full 21 speed. Also the brakes were not adjusted correctly, real problem with cable disc brakes as they feel good, until you need hard braking then find cam at end of limit, so will not stop you.

I do have an Aldi stand so easy enough to work on, but storing is a problem, my son did this which is not really my idea of kitchen decoration or a real practical way to store it. My wife's is sitting in the bath, not the best place, but don't really want to put a £1600 bike in garden shed. Mine a little cheaper at £750 but still a problem, and also easier to charge in the house/flat than in a shed. I will admit that is not the main bathroom, we have a shower room and bathroom elsewhere so not quite as bad as it looks.

My problem is I live in mid Wales and we have hills, and I find around 3 MPH is minimum speed that at 70 I can balance, so a little help in the form of a electric motor was required. But this made the cycle heavier, so the cycle rack officially will not take two bikes on the tow bar, it will in real terms, but seemed prudent to have one which will go into the boot. It also means it is secure when we leave it in the car.

But I now have 4 bikes, a hybrid which is a good quality road bike, a low quality mountain bike, but my late mother bought it me, so keeping it, that also has cable disc brakes, so dangerous if not maintained, and two e-bikes one mid motor bosch 7 speed hybrid, and a rear motor cheap folding mountain bike 21 speed. So storage is a problem. Not sure I want to fold bike to store? But one the local train starts allowing passengers to get off and on at Welshpool again I think folding to carry on the train is a good idea, wonder if folded if still charged for? Normally charged same as a dog at £3.50 per day, I have a 3 year session ticket, but can't get one for bike.

Oh and daughter-in-law does not ride that bike in kitchen, son put it up there as a joke, hope you see funny side.

 

[LardAbove]

Well..... Strange you mention expense!
When I originally scanned through the WebbieAds, looking for a decent folder, I saw an Ebay for one (an S7 I think it was...) and the guy was running the auction or 'make me an offer'. It was 2days to go and £30 so I popped "£40, collect today!".
He kindly responded it was one of a pair to sell - his and his wifes - from in their motorhome.... He realistically was expecting £400 each!
It was then I realised my search was, essentially, not for 'a bike'... But a punter keen to shift one >>> enter Kingpin, been on sale for ages at firm £90 on Glumtee, 'reduced' £35... GotChaa

It is original & unmolested and, I 'realistically expect', most suited to Wobbling my Blobby for many a mile yet....

My bicycle thanks you & I thankyou for your appreciation.

 

[LardAbove]

Returning to 'planet lashhupp', for a moment...

My chain has(..had) several links totally rust/fused together. I can only imagine a solitary 'drip, drip, drip...' has been dropping for many years [guy said it was in the back of his garage since forever...]

Robust wiggling and drips of 3-in-1 (yes, yes... BUT only the chain!!) has it freed up and wrapping comfortably around the SA sprocket

Attending to the SA, I dripped in 6 or so drops of sewing machine oil... The bike responded by promptly dripping a smear of oil onto the rim [bike at footstand angle] I imagine out of the small sprocket bearing race. I have read that the 'full grease pack', into these ballraces, will prevent oil escaping.... The whole SA is silent spinning and the ratchet 'zizzing' sweetly so NO, I'm not stripping it all out. However >> oil + brakes not good!

LardAbove

 

[ericmark]

Not sure about bikes, but bearings can be over greased, I had it with a crushing plant, not used much, but main motor tripping, but motor tested out OK, so I would wondering how I could measure torque, I was in the Falklands so one it would take a long time to get a replacement, and two if new one was the same likely I would loose my job.

At that point the engineer arrived, and I said what I had found, and my worries, and he told the fitter to remove casing and take two hand full of grease out, no mean task as casing weighed around 3 cwt. But it worked, the plant was up and running again.

So a little wary of packing things with grease.

Also oil and brakes had problems when molybdenum disulfide first started to come out, many of our brakes were oil cooled, specially in tractors, use molybdenum disulfide and it was a complete strip down and steam clean to get rid of it. However normal light oil on what should be dry disc brakes I have found soon burns off.

I was given a very cheap bike stand from Aldi, two simple hooks for rear forks, I find that allows me to pedal the bike wheel off the ground, great for setting gears and for oiling the chain. Far better than upside down and getting oil dripped on the seat.

 

[LardAbove]

@ericmark .... Hi, thanks for chipping in on 'bearings/packing'.
I have watched several SA 'rebuild' YouTubes [they are all exactly the same.. ] and the tin hoop 'ballrace' seems to be a throwaway... The new one fitted 'fully glooped' and the cone set.
Should I decide to do either front or rear 'cone/races' then a refill (after petrol rinse) of moly will be all they get .

LardAbove

 

[ericmark]

I do use car engine oil, which I know is wrong, far too viscous, but it is a balance, War Department 40 (WD40) has been the spray on thin oil used in UK for years, and when the bike is stored in doors it works well, but soon washes off with a little rain. The Molybdenum and Silicon sprays are likely far better, as engine oil holds the dirt on the chain etc, so acts like a grinding paste.

All well and good when bike cleaned after every use, but I don't, will nip down to shops many times before I clean it.

 

[LardAbove]

Weyy...heyyheyy... Postie knocked with this earlier >>

..... Fits great & is a nice 'jelly feel'

I shall sally forth tomorrow and, hopefully, generate some Video footage!

..... likely attempt to 'edit out' ambulance triage

LardAbove

 

[Bazzer]

I do use car engine oil, which I know is wrong, far too viscous, but it is a balance, War Department 40 (WD40) has been the spray on thin oil used in UK for years, and when the bike is stored in doors it works well, but soon washes off with a little rain. The Molybdenum and Silicon sprays are likely far better, as engine oil holds the dirt on the chain etc, so acts like a grinding paste.

All well and good when bike cleaned after every use, but I don't, will nip down to shops many times before I clean it.

WD40 is neither a thin oil nor lubricant.