Undoing pedals???

[Rickshaw Phil]

No idea but it had a threaded nut on a bolt inside the pedal. Does that help?

Not sure about that. Do you mean a threaded nut at the bottom bracket end of the crank? If so, you have to undo this before screwing the extractor onto the threads provided in the crank (as per smokeysmoo's post) then turning the handle to push the crank off the bottom bracket spindle. If you don't undo the nut first the threads for the crank puller will come out in a neat coil (not that I've ever done this of course ).

 

[Boris Bajic]

I find it helpful to think of a crank puller in terms of those threaded corkscrews one used to see, but which are less common these days.

If you aren't familiar with the sort of corkscrew I mean, think of it in terms of a crank puller.

I hope this is helpful.

I fear it is not.

 

[sabian92]

Not sure about that. Do you mean a threaded nut at the bottom bracket end of the crank? If so, you have to undo this before screwing the extractor onto the threads provided in the crank (as per smokeysmoo's post) then turning the handle to push the crank off the bottom bracket spindle. If you don't undo the nut first the threads for the crank puller will come out in a neat coil (not that I've ever done this of course ).

I meant the bottom bracket, not the pedal. As you can tell I've not done this before....

I don't understand how to use the tool. I've got one of these - the tool i've worked out I need is top left on that picture.

I did start to do it and some of the thread came off the inside of the crank because i'd arsed it up, is it a problem?

 

[Rickshaw Phil]

I meant the bottom bracket, not the pedal. As you can tell I've not done this before....

I don't understand how to use the tool. I've got one of these - the tool i've worked out I need is top left on that picture.

I did start to do it and some of the thread came off the inside of the crank because i'd arsed it up, is it a problem?

I'm afraid the thread coming out is a problem as it won't now be possible to use the puller to remove the crank. I can see three possible reasons for this happening:

• The crank is made of an inferior alloy and the threads were weak, or:
• You used the little cup (which is shown with the crank puller in that link) which is intended for splined bottom brackets not square taper ones, or:
• You did what I said in the earlier post and forgot to undo the nut.

I'll admit to having experienced two of the above problems in the past and only just stopped myself in time from doing the third. It's very annoying stripping the thread especially as it means ultimately having to replace the crank that is damaged.

Can I ask which crank have the threads pulled out of?

 

[sabian92]

I think it was the right hand crank, knowing my luck that'd be the one that's more difficult to get off...

It probably is made from a weak alloy, it was a cheap hybrid I bought. I stripped it off so I could store it a bit easier and then when I had the money I could build it back up again without components made from cheese and marmalade...

 

[Rickshaw Phil]

Yeah the right hand one is slightly more difficult to remove (and more expensive to replace unfortunately) but there are a couple of options to get it off.

You could remove the nut and ride the bike - the movement will work the crank free after a few miles but will probably damage the square taper (you said it was a cheap hybrid so I'm presuming square taper) so it can't be re-used.

The other option is to pour plenty of boiling water over the bottom bracket end of the crank and carefully lever it off (the alloy crank will expand faster than the steel axle, releasing it's grip). Lever against the bottom bracket cartridge and the chainrings not the frame. Again this will probably damage the chainrings so they can't be re-used.

I have used both these methods successfully but I must emphasise that they are really last resort measures.

 

[sabian92]

Bollocks...

I can't ride it - there are literally just the front forks and the cranks still on. I was planning on completely stripping it down to just the frame so any damage to components (including the BB) is not a problem. I've stripped the thread off one side so i'm going to pour boiling water over it at some stage and see if that works.

How do I get the other crank off though, as in the normal way? I still have no idea how to use the tool

 

[Rickshaw Phil]

Oh, that's a pain.

The crank puller is easy to use but I'm not sure how best to describe it, so I hope this makes sense:
The tool has a two threaded parts a central peg and an outer collar. Both parts have a normal clockwise thread.
Remove the nut holding the crank on.
Unscrew the collar so that the peg isn't protruding then screw the collar into the threads in the crank. Make sure it goes all the way in to the threads. (You might have to unscrew the collar a long way).
Then screw the peg back in which as it goes in will push the crank off the axle. As you do this it will be pretty tight at first then will quickly become easier.

It might be worth trying it in the drive side too as you might be lucky (method is just the same). Using a bit of boiling water just might free it enough that the tool will work.

I hope that helps.

Edit: If it is square taper, don't use the little seperate cup with the crank extractor as this is intended for splined crank axles.

 

[sabian92]

I gave up and used the Jeremy Clarkson school of thought and used a hammer.... Got it off in a minute thank you though.

 

[Rickshaw Phil]

Ah, the Birmingham screwdriver method. I did try that in desperation but it didn't work for me. I'm glad it's sorted.

 

[sabian92]

Now, to get the BB out... without a BB tool. Somebody at Ice Toolz must hate me for not putting one in considering I paid 50 quid for that tool kit..

 

[Boris Bajic]

Serious recommendation: For buying tools whose use you are not sure about, go to a good LBS.

The current fascination for buying online at a saving incurs the invisible cost of losing the priceless element of guidance and advice from a good LBS.

I buy my tools from my LBS and they all cost more than the same one would online.

But...

1. The LBS is still there the next morning/week/year. And the guy knows my name.

2. He can say "This one is cheaper, but just as good for what you want".

3. he can say stuff like "Make sure you're ready to catch the bearings when they fall out" and similar.

There are things I buy online, but not shoes, tools and one or two other bits.

 

[Norm]

And he can also say stuff like "Bring it in when you can and I'll whip that off if you get me a packet of Hob Nobs, rather than you buying the tool for one use."

 

[Pat "5mph"]

You are all a mine of information, thanks! I'm trying to do exactly what Sabian92 is trying to do, I bought the same tool and watched the video on you tube by the manufacturer, Park Tools. I can confirm it does not work, with or without the round bit Phil has mentioned. I have also read carefully all of Phil's instructions - they are the same as the manufacturer's still the thing is not shifting.
Have not tried hammer and boiling water yet, I think I will go to lbs first, with the frame, see if they can remove this resiliant crank. Btw, I have almost stripped the thread of the tool's nut that you are supposed to turn to loose the crank.
Now, I'm all for running to the lbs, no expenses spared, but mine does not carry much stock, plus they keep erratic hours, and I work shifts, can never get to them when I need them.
Also, they made it clear they are not interested in rescuing my old banger because it is not cost effective. I don't hold it against them, in fact they sold me a new bike, but I will not surrender my project, because it helps me learn my mechanics and also because that old frame fits my wee legs to a t, better than my new ride.
Keep going Sabian!

 

[asterix]

Always put a towel over the chainrings in case you slip!

Good advice! Those rings have sharp teeth.. I always put the chain on the top ring too.