UN54/5 tool

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RecordAceFromNew

Swinging Member
Location
West London
Also handy, if like me, you want to use a torque wrench.

The problem with that design is you HAVE TO use the half inch ratchet, and then there is nothing you can do to firmly secure the tool to the bb. This is particularly problematic given these tools only catch a mm or two of the splines on the bb and that tool is also over tall in my view to further encourage slipping in action and mangling the splines in the process. Instead I would recommend something that looks like this (which is similar to the Shimano tool for 1/3rd the price) to use with a big adjustable spanner, and which allows the tool to be bound to the bb in action.

Square tapered bb's with hollow spindles are increasingly rare for a qr skewer to be used, but all it takes is the right bolt and a couple of washers. The crank bolt is usually too short so get a M8 x 1mm fine thread bolt and a couple of washers - b&q sells the whole lot for around 40p.

Separately since the chance of stripping the threads on an alloy crank is significant for a novice when using a crank extractor, I would suggest the OP follows the instruction very carefully - most of all do not forget to remove the cap on the tip of the crank extractor when using on a square taper.
 
OP
OP
young Ed

young Ed

Veteran
The problem with that design is you HAVE TO use the half inch ratchet, and then there is nothing you can do to firmly secure the tool to the bb. This is particularly problematic given these tools only catch a mm or two of the splines on the bb and that tool is also over tall in my view to further encourage slipping in action and mangling the splines in the process. Instead I would recommend something that looks like this (which is similar to the Shimano tool for 1/3rd the price) to use with a big adjustable spanner, and which allows the tool to be bound to the bb in action.

Square tapered bb's with hollow spindles are increasingly rare for a qr skewer to be used, but all it takes is the right bolt and a couple of washers. The crank bolt is usually too short so get a M8 x 1mm fine thread bolt and a couple of washers - b&q sells the whole lot for around 40p.

Separately since the chance of stripping the threads on an alloy crank is significant for a novice when using a crank extractor, I would suggest the OP follows the instruction very carefully - most of all do not forget to remove the cap on the tip of the crank extractor when using on a square taper.
the shimano BB remover you linked to also has rather short splines? is it better because you must use a big ole spanner directly on the tool and the tool is shorter? not sure what you mean with the m8 bolt etc maybe a little sketch? or just explanation for numpties?! do you mean to have the washers on the m8 bolt to come up againt the outside of the crank ad screw in the m8 bolt which then kits the square taper BB and then pushes/pulls them apart?
Cheers Ed
 

RecordAceFromNew

Swinging Member
Location
West London
the shimano BB remover you linked to also has rather short splines? is it better because you must use a big ole spanner directly on the tool and the tool is shorter? not sure what you mean with the m8 bolt etc maybe a little sketch? or just explanation for numpties?! do you mean to have the washers on the m8 bolt to come up againt the outside of the crank ad screw in the m8 bolt which then kits the square taper BB and then pushes/pulls them apart?
Cheers Ed

Indeed I don't see any good reason why those splines on the tool should be much longer than those on the bb which are only a couple of mm long. The longer the tool the greater the out-of-plane torque is there to cause the tool to slip - it makes sense to have a shortish tool.

If you look at the photo below hopefully it will give you some idea. Essentially you use the M8x1mm fine thread bolt (perfect for the thread of the UNxx spindle) and a couple of large washers to hold the tool onto the splines on the bb - that way the tool will not slip, doing potential damage to yourself the tool or the bb, when you give it some welly to break the bb free from the bb shell. Once the bb is broken free, loosen the bolt.

bottom-bracket-tool_thumb.jpg
 

I like Skol

A Minging Manc...
:rolleyes:
The problem with that design is you HAVE TO use the half inch ratchet, and then there is nothing you can do to firmly secure the tool to the bb. This is particularly problematic given these tools only catch a mm or two of the splines on the bb and that tool is also over tall in my view to further encourage slipping in action and mangling the splines in the process. Instead I would recommend something that looks like this (which is similar to the Shimano tool for 1/3rd the price) to use with a big adjustable spanner, and which allows the tool to be bound to the bb in action.
I'm not convinced. IME the deep IceToolz remover has engaged in the splines positively and removed stubborn BBs with a 36" bar with out slipping. I think the reason some people may have trouble getting the removal tool to engage in the splines is because they are using the shallower style remover and the tool is bottoming out on the end of the axle before it is fully engaged in the splines?
 

compo

Veteran
Location
Harlow
I am in agreement with Record Ace about the advantages of a shorter BB tool, even though I don't have one. In defence of the Icetoolz one though, and probably others of reasonable quality, I have not had any problems with the tool slipping. When the time comes to replace to tool I will certainly be looking at the shorter versions. I wasn't really aware they even existed.
 

RecordAceFromNew

Swinging Member
Location
West London
:rolleyes:

I'm not convinced. IME the deep IceToolz remover has engaged in the splines positively and removed stubborn BBs with a 36" bar with out slipping. I think the reason some people may have trouble getting the removal tool to engage in the splines is because they are using the shallower style remover and the tool is bottoming out on the end of the axle before it is fully engaged in the splines?

That is not the case. All the short tools I have seen have large enough holes to let the spindle through - the diameter of the splined bit is significantly greater than spindles.

To me the length of the Icetoolz one is only a secondary weakness - its major weakness (and to me critical enough that I will never buy it) is it WILL not allow you to use a bolt/qr/anything to bind the tool to the bb to avoid slippage - the ratchet would have blocked the hole. You would agree with me if you have tried to work on some badly mangled spline bb's - some do not even sit on a perfectly round circumference any more.
 

I like Skol

A Minging Manc...
That is not the case. All the short tools I have seen have large enough holes to let the spindle through - the diameter of the splined bit is significantly greater than spindles.

To me the length of the Icetoolz one is only a secondary weakness - its major weakness (and to me critical enough that I will never buy it) is it WILL not allow you to use a bolt/qr/anything to bind the tool to the bb to avoid slippage - the ratchet would have blocked the hole. You would agree with me if you have tried to work on some badly mangled spline bb's - some do not even sit on a perfectly round circumference any more.
First I would just like to point out, that rolleyes smiley shouldn't be there. I had started to reply to a different thread and didn't bother but somehow it hung around and sneaked in here. I apologise if it made my reply seem inappropriate.

I agree completely, the icetoolz item does not allow you to salvage a mangled BB as you describe. I work on the principle that the right tool used in the right way is the proper way. The added length of the icetoolz is actually a benefit in helping you to see that it is engaged straight and the 1/2" drive allows you to position the tool more positively than trying to hold a stubby tool in a big adjustable (a recipe for stripped or mangled threads for sure unless the securing bolt method is used every time).

I hope that by using a good tool in the first place I will avoid the scenario that you are portraying, and if not I will cross that bridge when I come to it, so far so good :thumbsup:
 

Tim Hall

Guest
Location
Crawley
I use the short tool pictured by Record Ace in conjunction with a 32mm socket, rather than an adjustable spanner. So far I've found that a crank bolt is just the job for holding the tool in place. Particularly stubborn BBs can be shifted by sliding a short length of scaffold pole over the breaker bar, to increase leverage.
 

evo456

Über Member
I use the short tool pictured by Record Ace in conjunction with a 32mm socket, rather than an adjustable spanner. So far I've found that a crank bolt is just the job for holding the tool in place. Particularly stubborn BBs can be shifted by sliding a short length of scaffold pole over the breaker bar, to increase leverage.

Works for me tool, in fact just use remover from a Halfords tool set, no bolt to secure it down. Just make sure the tool and socket is flush, stick a longish rachet and use one foot body weight to push down -like changing a wheel on a car.
 
OP
OP
young Ed

young Ed

Veteran
decided i ill just spend my money properly and save up and spend my pennies on the parktool crank puller (the blue one for square taper)
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and the parktool BBT 22
8baf61d5a5b11e1bec286737254161a821299bf5_430x390.jpg

e6cd4707d24ba5d7d0f3df235e1ad21cd34e3805_430x390.jpg

or should i get the bbt 32?
14e540705cfdb462d578a7856ddf78d23785f1e0_430x390.jpg

Cheers Ed
 
OP
OP
young Ed

young Ed

Veteran
so basically it is what ever i want in the argument as to long or short tool? i take my choice and it is neither completely wrong nor completely right!
Cheers Ed
 
OP
OP
young Ed

young Ed

Veteran
i have a free wheel remover like this
$_35.JPG

will this do a un54/5?
only asking because parktool do this tool
http://www.parktool.com/product/freewheel-remover-bottom-bracket-tool-bbt-5-fr-11
6b78d99a32ada127b7e4b8e29efb3fad826a34b9_430x390.jpg

and it claims to be for BB and freewheel
Cheers Ed
  • Fits all Campagnolo® cassette lockrings
  • Also fits Campagnolo® Record™, Chorus™, Centaur™ and Athena™ bottom brackets
not the shimano ones then i guess i will just have to get a real tool
Cheers Ed
 
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