Tubular Tyre Replacement (Tubs)

[PaulSB]

@whitesix I can't offer any advice to match the experienced views already given.

Just like to say that's a beautiful bike you have and I do hope you're able to get the wheels you need and keep her on the road!

 

[Flick of the Elbow]

Speaking as the proud owner of a bike that has a wide modern hub squeezed into a narrow 80s frame can I just say: Don't do it. Getting the wheel in and out is a monumental PITA and takes quite a bit of brute force and ignorance.

If you can find someone who knows what they are doing, it is possible to bend the stays out to allow a wider hub to be fitted.
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html

 

[Ajax Bay]

700c size wheels are absolutely everywhere in the cycling world,

Replacing a 700c tubular tyre rim for a 700c wire bead clincher tyre rim is even easier, it's a straight swap.

That size wheels are widely available, but this bike requires that the hubs are 126mm OLN (width of hub) whereas most wheels will be 130mm OLN. So the OP needs to know what's what if he procures a new (to him) set. And any new wheelset is unlikely to have these lovely wide flange hubs, except at considerable expense.
Swapping rims is "even easier" (than what, exactly). Some of the OP's spokes show rust which is why I think new spokes would be entirely sensible - and probably needed given the ERD of the new rims is quite likely different (requiring different length spokes).
Just chatting, John.

 

[whitesix]

I think that as Ajax Bay has suggested, the only way to move forward and keep the bike authentic is to keep the wide flange hubs and obtain new rims and completely re-build the wheels using new spokes (c/w the brass nipples, which I think would look sensational). Now the other matter and one thing that I have never been happy with are the plastic gear shifters. When the bike was sold it had gear shifters attached to the ends of the handle bars; but the person who sold it replaced these with what I consider to rather unsightly plastic gear shifters positioned on the down tube via some sort of cleat type arrangement; he advised me that he chose plastic "because they were lighter"; but I'm not sure that it may have been because they were cheaper. Perhaps I am splitting hairs here, but does anyone have any views on this additional matter and are aluminium shifters c/w suitable fixing cleats generally available?

 

[Sharky]

I was riding with plastic Simplex gear levers in the late 60's. They were a new material and quite popular at the time, I think made popular as Tom Simpson rode with Simplex.

However, I wouldn't recommend them. I turned up late for a race once and quickly put the wheels on, leaving the chain on the smallest sprocket without realizing. I was pushed off and immediately realized that a 104" gear was a bit high, so forced the lever down to get a lower gear, but the lever snapped and it went into my hand. Rode the 25 stuck in the 104" gear, with bloody hand.

 

[Ajax Bay]

Stick to down tube shifters. Metal ones definitely better. I can't tell if your frame has bosses on the down tube (sticking out sideways) or if there is a band-on on there. This stuff really needs someone local (eg LBS) to tell you (and give assurance) as to what will work. Your local bike charity workshop may also be a source for suitable levers. But I'd get the wheels sorted first.
I googled "simplex down tube shifter levers".
Two other comments:
1) Brass nipples are recommended for their material properties, not what they look like (which is 'silver' like the spokes (which are stainless steel btw)).
2) Forgive me, but (my eyes; my eyes ) please consider replacing that flouro green bottle cage with a simple nude aluminium one.

 

[whitesix]

Thank you again for your comments; totally agree with the bottle cage; it seemed a good idea at the time, it was the only one I could find that "sort of" matched the colour of the bike; I assume that the only way to secure any cage is with tie wraps, such as the ones I have used. No, there are no lugs for the gear shifters, they are secured with a wrap round metal band / cleat and I will endeavour to get some suitable metal shifters; thanks AB for clearing up my misunderstandings concerning the brass nipples reference the stainless steel spokes. Also, I had no idea about any such thing as a local bike charity workshop; I will definitely make some enquiries, for when the current pandemic hopefully eventually subsides. Great advice, thank you all very much!

 

[Ajax Bay]

Two of these would do, to allow you to fit a 'normal' bottle cage, with style. I expect your seat tube is 28.6 OD, but measure it.
https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/dmr-hinged-clamp/rp-prod745
Further observation: pull the rear brake outer a cm further towards the caliper (it'll slip through the fastenings/ties on the top tube).

 

[SkipdiverJohn]

I seem to be in the minority here, but i've never been a fan of the large flange hub and I wouldn't go to a lot of trouble to rebuild a knackered wheel just because it had one of those hubs. I'd just replace it with a wheel built on a small flange hub, which personally I prefer the look of anyway.

 

[Ajax Bay]

I guess you've never owned a pair of wheels with hubs with large flanges and they tend never to make it to a skip or tip. Think of the geometric benefits besides the aesthetic attraction.

 

[normgow]

Personally I wouldn't return it to bar-end shifters. Partly for looks - they have extra loops of cable poking out all over the place and would give the bike a more "touring" than "sporty" look.

I really must disagree with Dogtrousers about bar-end shifters. We called them handlebar control and if fitted properly and the cables routed neatly were something, in my opinion, which made a bike resemble a work of art. See the accompanying pic. of Rik van Looy - The Emperor of Herentals alongside two of his Red Brigade team mates in T.d.F 1965. Not much cable poking out there.

 

[Ajax Bay]

Not much cable poking out there.

Cables all over the place.
Bitd I was very proud of the bar end levers on my first drop handlebar bike - vintage about the same as those of Rik van Looy, but on a Raleigh. And they had esoteric merit, in my urban schoolboy environment.

 

[whitesix]

Obviously I also have no experience of bar end shifters, but the guy I purchased this bike from some 33 years ago was an out and out competitive racer and I'm quite certain that all cables etc would have been neatly tucked away. I'd never seen bar end shifters before I went along with my mate to view this bike and one of the points of sale was that the bar ends were replaced with down tube shifters; but as previously stated, I was never that keen on the plastic shifters, seems to spoil the aesthetics a little, in my opinion.

 

[SkipdiverJohn]

I guess you've never owned a pair of wheels with hubs with large flanges and they tend never to make it to a skip or tip. Think of the geometric benefits besides the aesthetic attraction.

Correct, have never acquired a machine with such wheels fitted. Not that struck with the look of them, TBH. I suppose there's a marginal advantage to having shorter spokes for a given wheel size, but I doubt it's very significant given spokes work under tension.

 

[whitesix]

Correct, have never acquired a machine with such wheels fitted. Not that struck with the look of them, TBH. I suppose there's a marginal advantage to having shorter spokes for a given wheel size, but I doubt it's very significant given spokes work under tension.

I just like the look of them; they look different; I can't comment however on their technical merit; but they do look good and as I know the person who originally raced this bike; I'm sure that they were chosen with some technical advantage.