No idea really, I'm 200ish lbs myself (not really sure exactly), and I do ride it quite hard, but it's my daily commuter, and gets used in all conditions and infrequently cleaned, so that may have something to do with it. Currently it's covered in sheep shoot from when I rode back along the marshes last week. I tend not to have to adjust them after long all day rides though, so it's probably in part due to being stop/start at the lights all the time when commuting, and I do quite like rocking up at the line with my rear wheel in the air.
TRP HY-RD cable actuated hydraulic or not ?
- Thread starter Doyleyburger
- Start date
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No idea really, I'm 200ish lbs myself (not really sure exactly), and I do ride it quite hard, but it's my daily commuter, and gets used in all conditions and infrequently cleaned, so that may have something to do with it. Currently it's covered in sheep shoot from when I rode back along the marshes last week. I tend not to have to adjust them after long all day rides though, so it's probably in part due to being stop/start at the lights all the time when commuting, and I do quite like rocking up at the line with my rear wheel in the air.
ColinJ
Puzzle game procrastinator!
- Location
- Todmorden - Yorks/Lancs border
I put a Hy/Rd on the front of my CAADX which has ~5 (?) year old 10 speed Tiagra on it. It does take a long pull of the brake lever to operate the brake but with careful adjustment I can get adequate (though not spectacular) braking from it. (I can stop the bike, but I have to pull a bit harder than I'd like to!) I think you are probably right about the cable pull ratio. I'm sure that the brake would work really well with a lever which pulled more cable.
To adjust - do up the little screw on the brake assembly, then take up all the slack in the cable. Release the screw. That gets the pads as close as they should be but doesn't over do it, so the mechanism which self-adjusts for worn pads still works. (Oh and don't forget to make sure that the disk is centred between the pads. Do that by loosening the mounting bolts on the brake assembly, braking hard and keep on braking. Wiggle the assembly about until it settles in the correct position, tighten the bolts while still braking. Release the lever. Check the disk again. It took me a few goes at that until I was happy that I'd got it all spaced properly.)
ColinJ
Puzzle game procrastinator!
- Location
- Todmorden - Yorks/Lancs border
Wobblers
Euthermic
- Location
- Minkowski Space
That sounds similar to how I set up my Hy/Rds. And I've also used the trick about reversing the reversing the cable anchor bolt to reduce the amount of lever pull, which has certainly helped. You seem to have much the same experience as I, that a lot more force is needed on the brake lever in order to get decent braking. It's not awful (I'd have taken it off had it been!) but by the same token it isn't as good as the Sram Rival rim brakes I've got on the Caad 10.
I may have another fettle this weekend to see if I can improve things - or swap back in the Juin Tech R1 I've got. The R1 is about on par with the old BB7s, but is a sealed system so needs occasional adjustment. No disc rub though, unlike the BB7, which is nice! It's rather frustrating that after all this time there still isn't a cable operated disc brake that's unquestionably better than the old BB7, a design that must be getting on for a decade old.
I replaced the BB7 with TRP Spyre mechanical, IMO the Spyre are better, no rubbing.
Nigelnightmare
Über Member
With the TRP Spyres being close to the spokes I run 180mm rotors and it gives better clearance, better stopping and longer lasting pads! + they run cooler.
