triumph rodeo frame an forks

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So morning has been spent finishing off taking everything off, then washing the frame, then rubbing down using petrol to remove all old oil and grease. Frame and guards are now clean. Next step is to grind off the old paint and prep for re-spray- that was until the postie Arrived and took an active interest in the project- then ventured an opinion that I shouldn’t be touching the paint, but should only be applying lacquer then putting it all back together.
Humm....
Right, so the blue mudguard paint is on its way, but I haven’t yet ordered the frame paint. So, come on then, I’m inviting opinion here, should I be repainting with the original paint or leaving well alone???
 

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Paulus

Started young, and still going.
Location
Barnet,
So morning has been spent finishing off taking everything off, then washing the frame, then rubbing down using petrol to remove all old oil and grease. Frame and guards are now clean. Next step is to grind off the old paint and prep for re-spray- that was until the postie Arrived and took an active interest in the project- then ventured an opinion that I shouldn’t be touching the paint, but should only be applying lacquer then putting it all back together.
Humm....
Right, so the blue mudguard paint is on its way, but I haven’t yet ordered the frame paint. So, come on then, I’m inviting opinion here, should I be repainting with the original paint or leaving well alone???
Leave well alone, just clean up what is there.
 
Ok, decision made- the frame is going to get a coat of clear lacquer varnish To preserve what’s there and the mudguards are getting painted- there’s not enough of the blue paint left that isn’t either flakey or rusted.
Progress report thus far- brake callipers have come up a treat and mudguards are being prepped for the new top coat tomorrow.

ok- so the frame- anyone recommend a lacquer? And other than clean it, what else do I need to do to the frame paintwork in preparation?

thanks for the input so far!
 

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Well, it’s been a busy afternoon, mostly putting back together.
mudguards and chainguard have had 4 undercoats, 5 blue coats and 5 coats of lacquer - needed that many to get the right level of shine finish.
starting to come together now...
 

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Need to ask you all a question though- think I have bought the wrong brake cables. I need to find ones that have a solid lead end on the calliper end as well as the lever end. The attached photo are the ends I had to cut off. I can’t seem to locate them them anywhere.
The bloke in Halfords had an idea they could be found on drum brake kits but so far had no luck...
Any help greatly appreciated.
 

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This is the rear calliper, again this shows the little round lead end consealed in the plastic dome. I guess it was done upside down to the front calliper otherwise the cable would rub against the leg of the rider, and because of that- to avoid water I guess to the cable they had to use the plastic dome.
none of this helps me find a replacement!
 

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Thank you Raleighnut. Not the exact same shape but I think they will fit nicely. I’m measure up the size tomorrow.
 
Actually on closer inspection, that one isn’t going to work. I found this one and for it to work in the exact same way as it used to they need to look like this one.... see link:

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/202654462207

... but then also be the correct length;
.... be the correct colour (white)
.... be set up so the adjuster is mounted opposite direction for the rear as to the front.

Plus I’ve just spent the last hour and a half looking for exact like for like and can’t find any.
So on that basis, I think I might have to go with the white cables I have already, plus the extra wires with the lead barrels for the lever end, then I will have to get hold of some little pinch bolts to grip the cable- which I think should do is if I use the original adjusters with the callipers.

I’m then only left with one issue to over come- the opposite direction thing for the rear calliper to prevent water ingress to the cable; either I go the standard way and risk the cable catching the riders leg (maybe solved with 1 or 2 more chrome cable clips to the frame), or I go the original way and risk water ingress from an upward facing open end- possibly solved with a modern rubber cone shaped end gromet.

if you scroll back to my original photos Pre stripping down the bike you should see the issue with finding replacements.

Any help or suggestions always appreciated.
 

raleighnut

Legendary Member
Actually on closer inspection, that one isn’t going to work. I found this one and for it to work in the exact same way as it used to they need to look like this one.... see link:

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/202654462207

... but then also be the correct length;
.... be the correct colour (white)
.... be set up so the adjuster is mounted opposite direction for the rear as to the front.

Plus I’ve just spent the last hour and a half looking for exact like for like and can’t find any.
So on that basis, I think I might have to go with the white cables I have already, plus the extra wires with the lead barrels for the lever end, then I will have to get hold of some little pinch bolts to grip the cable- which I think should do is if I use the original adjusters with the callipers.

I’m then only left with one issue to over come- the opposite direction thing for the rear calliper to prevent water ingress to the cable; either I go the standard way and risk the cable catching the riders leg (maybe solved with 1 or 2 more chrome cable clips to the frame), or I go the original way and risk water ingress from an upward facing open end- possibly solved with a modern rubber cone shaped end gromet.

if you scroll back to my original photos Pre stripping down the bike you should see the issue with finding replacements.

Any help or suggestions always appreciated.
Yep finding NOS bits for old Raleighs (and their sub-brands) is always a pain, that's why I changed my 86 Raleigh 'City' 3 speed to 700c wheels (from 26 x 1 3/8th inch) which meant I could use more modern Wienmann Aluminium Calipers instead of the bent chromed steel originals as the wheels are slightly bigger meaning there is less 'drop'. Changing the Bottom bracket from a cottered crank to a square taper one was a pain too as the cups are Raleigh threaded not standard but luckily the cups were OK and I managed to source a shaft of the right length.

I might have the old Steel brake calipers in the shed which have clamp fittings instead of the bent clip thing to retain the end of the cable and if memory serves the adjuster and the clamp are interchangeable so you can change from top cable to bottom cable easily, I'll have a root around tomorrow but I might have chucked them out, it depends if Maz was moaning about the amount of clutter I'd accumulated as is her wont. :laugh:

go the original way and risk water ingress from an upward facing open end This isn't a problem if you use Stainless Cables and plenty of grease.

 
Thanks Raleighnut, very helpful.
I see now why you have your user name!
nice bike and cat btw!
Ok, I’ll hang on a bit on the brake cable front, wait for you, and keeping looking at the same time- before go and do a bodge job with the pinch bolts!
 
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