Triban RC500 road bike - Journey to tubeless set up (Unsuccessful!...but to be continued)

[catalin gramada]

The right tape for those 17mm rim is 21mm width. This is what the Decathlon recommended.

 

[Ajax Bay]

We're flogging a dead horse. The OP has not been on CycleChat since New Year's Day.

 

[SkipdiverJohn]

We're flogging a dead horse. The OP has not been on CycleChat since New Year's Day.

And if you'd rather spend more time actually riding your bikes rather than pissing about with tubeless on stupidly tight triban rims, then just avoid that model of bike/rim, and stick some Marathons on whatever bike you do ride. Job done and no endless tales of woe about triban rims and trying to get tubeless tyres to seal properly.
Tubeless simply works a lot better on high volume low pressure motor vehicle tyres than it does on low volume high pressure bike tyres. Horses for courses.

 

[PaulSB]

@Milkfloat could you expand a little on your comment re CO2 and sealant being a poor mix.

It's the first time I've heard this and while I've never used this combination would like to both understand the issue and avoid it.

Thanks.

 

[Milkfloat]

@Milkfloat could you expand a little on your comment re CO2 and sealant being a poor mix.

It's the first time I've heard this and while I've never used this combination would like to both understand the issue and avoid it.

Thanks.

There are two reported problems. One is thermal shock where the sealant can freeze. This can be avoided by inflating the tyre valve at the 12 o’clock position (sealant pools at the 6 o’clock) and by releasing the CO2 slowly. The second problem is that it can reduce the life of the sealant and ‘dry it out’ faster. I still use CO2 with tubeless and have not experienced problems, although I cannot comment on the life of the sealant as I don’t measure lifespan.

 

[PaulSB]

@Milkfloat thanks I had wondered about the drying out/lifespan being a possibility. No knowledge just a guess.

I hadn't considered the freezing aspect and will keep it in mind if I ever need to use CO2 on my tubeless.

As an aside after several frustrating mornings when my valves had "gummed" up and wouldn't inflate I realised storing the bike with the valve at 12.00 is important. Any sealant which is in the valve itself or on the tyre wall in that area will drain out of or away from the valve. Solved what was becoming a very irritating tubeless problem.

 

[Milkfloat]

@Milkfloat thanks I had wondered about the drying out/lifespan being a possibility. No knowledge just a guess.

I hadn't considered the freezing aspect and will keep it in mind if I ever need to use CO2 on my tubeless.

As an aside after several frustrating mornings when my valves had "gummed" up and wouldn't inflate I realised storing the bike with the valve at 12.00 is important. Any sealant which is in the valve itself or on the tyre wall in that area will drain out of or away from the valve. Solved what was becoming a very irritating tubeless problem.

12 o’clock will keep some sealant in the valve as the valve will be pointing to the ground, you are probably better off with 4 or 8 o’clock.

 

[PaulSB]

12 o’clock will keep some sealant in the valve as the valve will be pointing to the ground, you are probably better off with 4 or 8 o’clock.

Ah, yes that makes sense. Thanks.

 

[T4tomo]

We're flogging a dead horse. The OP has not been on CycleChat since New Year's Day.

too busy doing trips to and fro the garage because he thinks a track pump isn't essential equipment for any cyclist.

 

[Tapper3279]

Im exactly looking for the same Gravelking SS 32 to put on my RC500 then found your story, may i ask how it solved (or not)? Do you recommened it?

Hello! Sorry everyone for not responding sooner! I didn't receive alerts for some reason and haven't been so active online!

I am not sure if you managed to solve this in the last seven months , but yes to answer your question, I did manage to sort everything a few weeks after I made that first post.

What I did was just use tubes in both wheels for a few weeks which gave the tyres a good stretch and good fit on the wheels.

I then spent about 10 pounds on a C02 pump with some cannisters, and blasted the air in using those which easily seated the beads.

I did run tubeless for a few months and it worked out quite well. I did find that air leaked more often than with tubes so I ended up deciding to just switch back to tubes for ease and less maintenance. I thin kfor some people it works out the other way around!

I may switch back eventually, but currently looking at a new road bike so if I work something out there then I may turn this one into a gravel bike with more off roady tyres.

Anyway, if any more questions let me know. Happy to help!

 

[Tapper3279]

I have had a version of Gravelking made for Fairweather (I believe it is the same tyre with the same herringbone pattern) - it was a PITA to mount and sealant would leak like crazy from sidewalls - literally bleeding to death

That is really odd. Is your tyre a tubeless compatible tyre? Because I would have assumed the sidewalls weren't porous and were just gum coloured like mine? Mine never leaked through the sidewalls, it just leaked in other small gaps around the wheels

 

[Tapper3279]

too busy doing trips to and fro the garage because he thinks a track pump isn't essential equipment for any cyclist.

I did end up buying a track pump and I felt total regret for having not bought one at the very start! Although if I had kept using the small one up to now I could have probably stopped going to the gym!

 

[Tapper3279]

And if you'd rather spend more time actually riding your bikes rather than pissing about with tubeless on stupidly tight triban rims, then just avoid that model of bike/rim, and stick some Marathons on whatever bike you do ride. Job done and no endless tales of woe about triban rims and trying to get tubeless tyres to seal properly.
Tubeless simply works a lot better on high volume low pressure motor vehicle tyres than it does on low volume high pressure bike tyres. Horses for courses.

Now that my Gravelking tyres have been really stretched out they are easy to get on and off, and fixing punctures at the roadside is relatively easy..still not easy on a cold night and certainly not as easy as some youtube videos show people just pushing tyres on with a little nudge from their thumb!