raleighnut
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No generally the torque figures for critical bolts was far higher but things like rocker boxes and engine casings were fitted using similar sized bolts to bike components and I was taking those off and refitting them on a regular basis. The Garage wouldn't have continued to employ me if I stripped threads or snapped bolts.What I am getting at is whether the torque settings, that you believe that you know how to accurately reproduce, are anything like the low torque required for most bicycle components.
As I posted earlier though on a Carbon Fibre component then a torque wrench may be needed but how accurate are these cheap ones, I know for a fact that the professional ones I used were several hundred pounds back in the late 70s.
I would not advise somebody I did not know to not use a torque wrench, they maybe totally ham fisted for all I know. I tested a guy once who said he could torque a wheel nut up without the wrench, miles out, way overtightened on one side of the car and too loose on the other.
A good point, 1 common fault I've come across with Ally wheels on SAAB's is tyre fitters just 'gunning' the wheelnuts up far too tight which leads to the studs snapping. A theory is that the heat from the brake discs causes the Aluminium to expand and that snaps the stud but I've certainly seen cars with one or two wheelnuts and studs missing when down at my mates workshop. Their policy when this occurs is to change the whole set of 5 each side. (Mind you Jason has one of those fancy electric torque guns (Snap On/Bluepoint) for re-fitting wheels)