tightening bolts/seat clamps on carbon frames.

[RecordAceFromNew]

Are there any special considerations to be given when tightening up parts on a carbon frame such as the seat post, is there a need to be a little more careful or will it take the same pressures?

What nobody has mentioned so far is that one should offset the cut-out at the seatpost clamp and the cut-out at the frame, to avoid the clamp applying disproportionate pressure on the frame where it is weakest and making it dig into the post right there. Also better quality posts have specific instructions on maximum torque requirement. In case the offset requirement is not obvious it is shown in pic 3 and 4 here.

 

[Hacienda71]

My worry would be not getting it out again. I only questioned it because I had never heard of it before, are you not concerned what effect the solvents may have on the carbon.

It is fairly well discussed on various cycling forums and most people who have tried it seem to be satisfied with it as a cost effective alternative to buying carbon paste. I have moved my seatpost heights a few times since applying it when using clip on aero bars in TTs and had no issues moving the post. I suspect if you immersed a piece of carbon in the solvent in hairspray then you may have a problem, but a light spray allowed to go dry/tacky is of little concern to me.

 

[screenman]

It is fairly well discussed on various cycling forums and most people who have tried it seem to be satisfied with it as a cost effective alternative to buying carbon paste. I have moved my seatpost heights a few times since applying it when using clip on aero bars in TTs and had no issues moving the post. I suspect if you immersed a piece of carbon in the solvent in hairspray then you may have a problem, but a light spray allowed to go dry/tacky is of little concern to me.

Not sure I would use it myself, but if it works for you then that is good.

 

[Salty seadog]

What nobody has mentioned so far is that one should offset the cut-out at the seatpost clamp and the cut-out at the frame, to avoid the clamp applying disproportionate pressure on the frame where it is weakest and making it dig into the post right there. Also better quality posts have specific instructions on maximum torque requirement. In case the offset requirement is not obvious it is shown in pic 3 and 4 here.

That right there is a solid gold tip for which I doff my cap to you sir.

 

[Salty seadog]

Hi Salty seadog - I'm guessing that this question is in advance of you getting your Corbin framed Whyte Montpellier... After owning mine for about 2 months I started to get a knocking sound from the back, which I ignored for a while, but then found that the 2 bolts which hold the disc brake to the frame had come loose (very loose actually!) and the front disk block was also quite wobbly. I can only assume that the LBS didn't do a particularly good job in checking these before handing it over to me. Anyway, I then got a torque wrench as a present, so I'm now better safe than sorry

I'm getting the bike mail order on 0% interest finance so I will be giving it a thourough going over myself as I'd put a lot more faith in myself than anyone on the end of a phone 300 miles away.....

 

[RecordAceFromNew]

That right there is a solid gold tip for which I doff my cap to you sir.