Thru axle problems

[Jody]

You'll need an easy out if the hex has rounded and a new through axle to replace.

 

[wafter]

Most thru-axles don't have a QR. In fact I'm not sure I've ever seen one which does.

Mine do

... although to be fair that's my only experience of TAs so can't claim how normal this is.

 

[SpokeyDokey]

Mine do

View attachment 689108

... although to be fair that's my only experience of TAs so can't claim how normal this is.

They are very different to mine - also I see that they are now available with a removable lever:

https://www.dtswiss.com/en/wheels/wheels-technology/rws-technology

 

[Sea of vapours]

Those DTSwiss through axles do not have the same mechanism as the ones @wafter posted /appear/ to have. The DTSwiss ones simply provide a lever with which to turn the axle and allow that lever to be rotated and positioned neatly after it's been used to tighten the axle up. Canyuone supply axles which are functionally similar. @wafter 's ones do appear to have an actual cam, which is pretty peculiar.

@wafter : does closing the lever / cam actually tighten the axle, as appears to be the case, and if so, how does that interact with the torque you apply when screwing it in in the first place?

EDIT: I think I've answered my own question:
'A cam thru-axle lever, like those used on Shimano’s E-THRU and SRAM’s Maxle hubs, still screws in like a standard axle. Closing the lever tightens down the axle, securing it to the bike. This takes less effort to remove and install the axle than fixed lever systems.'
Those are still not 'QR' though: they're a through axle with a camming device on the end, rather than a quick release skewer. They still unscrew rather than release quickly.

 

[SpokeyDokey]

Those DTSwiss through axles do not have the same mechanism as the ones @wafter posted /appear/ to have. The DTSwiss ones simply provide a lever with which to turn the axle and allow that lever to be rotated and positioned neatly after it's been used to tighten the axle up. Canyuone supply axles which are functionally similar. @wafter 's ones do appear to have an actual cam, which is pretty peculiar.

@wafter : does closing the lever / cam actually tighten the axle, as appears to be the case, and if so, how does that interact with the torque you apply when screwing it in in the first place?

EDIT: I think I've answered my own question:
'A cam thru-axle lever, like those used on Shimano’s E-THRU and SRAM’s Maxle hubs, still screws in like a standard axle. Closing the lever tightens down the axle, securing it to the bike. This takes less effort to remove and install the axle than fixed lever systems.'
Those are still not 'QR' though: they're a through axle with a camming device on the end, rather than a quick release skewer. They still unscrew rather than release quickly.

The DT Swiss RWS on my bike seem to be the easiest method imo.

They are very secure as well as being well made.

I love the fact that post-tightening they can be moved to a 'tidy' position.

Also, as part of a quick pre-ride safety check it would be obvious if one was coming undone - although mine have never moved. They are a bit like those plastic yellow markers on heavy truck wheels.

 

[Mr Celine]

Some research on youtube suggests that the hex rounding out is not uncommon, though there seems to be no consensus on a sure fire removal method. Park Tools make a special tool for this very purpose, no doubt very expensive. Other youtubers recommend a stud extractor or battering in a torx bit.

I don't have a stud extractor and my largest torx bit was too small, but I did find a similarly shaped security screwdriver bit that looked like it might do. I hammered that in as far as I dared but trying to turn it just chewed the hex up more.

Someone upthread asked if it had a hex at the other end. It doesn't, it is a plain round hole, but looking at it made me wonder if I could tap the hole and screw a bolt in till it jammed, which would then turn the TA the right way to loosen. However, the largest bolt I could find lying around was an M10, which was just too small. I have an M12 tap but that looked like it might be too big.

Before packing up and ordering a stud extractor I had another look at the chewed up end to see if there was any unchewed up surfaces further in. I got the ball end of a very good allen key in by wiggling it around, after which the plain end of that key appeared the have a very good grip. In contrast the allen key supplied with the bike, which is absurdly long for the specified torque, did not feel tight at all, so I went for it with the good one.

BANG! Success!

The offending article plus some implements of destruction.

Now to find a replacement that's easier to remove and preferably made of something tougher than liquorice.

Thanks all for the advice and ideas.

 

[Sallar55]

As a post above said some thro axle have hex at both ends , i can also unscrew/screw up at the threaded end rather than the end with the cap . Did you grease up the axle every year just before the winter season. I bought a bolt thro dynamo hub for touring and one of the tips was make sure that the axle is greased every year.

 

[newts]

Another vote for the Dt Swiss RWS, very good summary by Spokey.

 

[Cycleops]

Come back QR, all is forgiven.

 

[wafter]

Those DTSwiss through axles do not have the same mechanism as the ones @wafter posted /appear/ to have. The DTSwiss ones simply provide a lever with which to turn the axle and allow that lever to be rotated and positioned neatly after it's been used to tighten the axle up. Canyuone supply axles which are functionally similar. @wafter 's ones do appear to have an actual cam, which is pretty peculiar.

@wafter : does closing the lever / cam actually tighten the axle, as appears to be the case, and if so, how does that interact with the torque you apply when screwing it in in the first place?

EDIT: I think I've answered my own question:
'A cam thru-axle lever, like those used on Shimano’s E-THRU and SRAM’s Maxle hubs, still screws in like a standard axle. Closing the lever tightens down the axle, securing it to the bike. This takes less effort to remove and install the axle than fixed lever systems.'
Those are still not 'QR' though: they're a through axle with a camming device on the end, rather than a quick release skewer. They still unscrew rather than release quickly.

Yes, that's correct. Perhaps my use of language was inaccurate; I guess it depends on your definition. I consider traditional QR axles "quick release" because the cam lever removes the need for a separate tool and some unscrewing work from the job (although you still usually need to slacken them off to get the axle through the dropouts). In this way the TAs could be described a QR.. they require a bit more unscrewing and total axle removal but IMO operation is broadly comparable.

 

[SpokeyDokey]

Come back QR, all is forgiven.

TA's much better than QR's with disc brakes as the wheel ends up back in exactly the same place each time thus avoiding any pad rub for previously set-up brakes that were running silent.

Used to be a PITA on my old disc braked MTB's with QR's. Accurately position calipers for no rub, take wheel off for whatever reason and then get rub on replacement.

 

[figbat]

I assume that's a Maxle Stealth - designed for minimum profile. The Maxle Lite has a lever on the end for toolless operation. I have one on the front wheel of one of my MTBs, but have to carry a tool anyway because the rear wheel needs one!

 

[figbat]

And the Maxle operating manual (yes, really!) says you should grease the thread.

 

[fossyant]

Screw in through axle with a levered cam to tighten

Not quick release per se but doesn't require tools to operate.

Unfortunately Rock Shox ones are made of Cheese so you have better not be ham fisted, or you will be in a right pickle (sandwich). 🤔

 

[Jody]

Unfortunately Rock Shox ones are made of Cheese so you have better not be ham fisted, or you will be in a right pickle (sandwich). 🤔

I've never had the pleasure of RS through axle but agree they looks a little flimsy.

I can confirm FOX takes many kicks and doesn't brake whilst Manitou hex TA is a good idea but a bit of a PITA.