The Big Big Trip Journal! If you want to make the man (or woman) upstairs laugh, just tell him your plans!

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 820 Sunday, December 12 San Juan to Las Lajas 24 km Total KM 14897
Min meters 2448, Max Meters 2927
Total Climb 627 Total Descent 391
Min Temp 12 Max Temp 22 Ave Temp 16

I'm a pilgrim again! Part Two

Agricultural country outside of Ipiales.

​

Now it was only a few kms to Las Lajas, a lot of it downhill with a sepearated path for pedestrians and possibly bikers.

It wasn't exactly the brightest day ever but the rain lightened and eventually left me alone

Las Lajas is home to one of the most famous churches in the world, is the site of a supposed apparition by the Virgin Mary and a place of pilgrimage for many South Americans.

Looking back at Ipiales. Ecuador is just down the road! There's a dedicated path separate to the road, presumably for Pilgrims

​

In some respects this big, big trip really only began after my Camino de Santiago pilgrimage when I realised that cycling a few thousand kms wasn't just possible but fun too. A few days ago I decided it was appropiate that this trip should end (its southerly direction) at the South American equivalent.

This bend looked much better "in the wild". The feckin' mist messes with everything

​

Spying a viewing platform and a little place for coffee nearby I pulled in and had my first view of this famous building.

​

I got to the bottom of the hill and turned onto a street that normally would repel me filled as it was with tourists and stores and stalls supplying everything they don't need. But it didn't repel me - it charmed me. I hopped off the bike and walked down amongst throngs of people, a lot of them children. There was a happy vibe in the place and I felt quite comfortable.

The church is in some pleasant countryside

​

I found the hotel mentioned on iOverlander (hot water, secure parking for the bike and good WiFi) and had a bit of fun with two girls as I tried to figure out who to talk to about a room. It's great to be able to take the pee out of people in another language!
A small room, a hot shower and I set off to visit this famous church.

Hilly in these parts

​

To be continued.......

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 820 Sunday, December 12 Las Lajas

El Santuario

For more information: Wiki



My commitment is: water, my river my life

​

I have to admit that it was a little exciting arriving in Las Lajas. The unexpected view of the famous church certainly helped but there was also the idea that I was reaching a destination that many, many people have struggled, laboured and sacrificed to reach. There's more than just things to see in these places - there's things to feel too.

This is a strange place to be building a church in a narrow gorge created by a powerful river

​

I adjusted my usual routine - no coffee - had a hot shower and set off on my own pilgrimage to the church. The crowds on the street when I arrived had thinned somewhat about half an hour later so I had a good view of the little stores selling touristy and religious stuff, the hotels and eating places.

Unusually for approaching such a building we hit the top first!

​

It didn't take long for my first detour from the designated path to visit a park for kids, sadly dilapidated. I continued on downhill.

Never one to take a direct route (even when I want to ) I wandered around

​

Long before I could see the church there were plaques placed on walls, expressions of gratitude for favours received from the Virgin Mary. I was dragged back to the Blue House in México city and Frida Kahlo's private collection of similar items painted on tin.
These were of stone, usually, and engraved as a headstone might be. It wasn't unusual for people to use their names and for the specific favours to be named (cures for specific illnesses and one guy's military career).
There's a treasure trove of human stories stuck to these walls. Unfortunately, a gringo stopped trying to read the inscriptions was in the way of people heading for the church.

Some examples of the plaques. Not only are they from individuals and families they can be from the "Syndicate of shoe shiners" as the big one in the bottom picture declares

​

But what kind of people?
All kinds of people! And their children, often with toys, and of course their dogs. Older folk were supported by younger as they shuffled down. Babies in buggies were lifted down the steeper sections (I think I saw more buggies today than in all of Colombia so far). Clothing was a mix of traditional, woolen capes and trendy active chic. I saw one other white guy.

Getting close..... There's a pleasant atmosphere in the air

​

The church is built so low that I was level with the top of the spire before I knew it. To my right was the bottom point of a cablecar line. I had seen them on the way down but have no urge to use it.

The río. To the right is a walkway along the river. I liked the fact that there's more here than just the church.

​

Below is the Río Guáitara stretching right and left. A footpath follows it to a bend to my right and to my left I can see a couple of walkways, one up to a waterfall, another to a bridge and also a kid's playground. I am quietly impressed at the lack of "Holiness" on display, or perhaps to put it better at the spiritual accessibility of the place. Walks, cablecars, a playground all speak to creating a family environment, a place that's about more than religion. I feel comfortable.

It's quite small in relation to its footprint.

​

Continuing on downwards towards the church and past many thousands of plaques I go off exploring without visiting the church. It seems full and the area in front is filled with people taking photos including the by now customary Instagram star - a quick brush of the hair, lowering of the zip on her top, push the boobs up and strike a pose.

The miraculous painting image. This "appeared" after the Virgin Mary appeared to a young girl and her mother.
I didn't feel comfortable taking a photo during the day - there were too many people in serious devotion and it felt disrespectful. I returned later that night to take this.

​

To be continued.......

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 820 Sunday, December 12 Las Lajas

El Santuario Part Two

There's a lot of engineering and a hell of a lot of labour gone into this!

​

I take a walk by the river and soon am alone - just me and the rushing water and birds singing. I go beyond the path, doubling over to get under a tunnel of trees and find a nice, tranquil place to sit and appreciate.

I find it more impressive from far away. Up close the building is very "busy" but from a distance there's calm, grace and peace

​

Then I wander over the other side and up to the waterfall. For me it's nothing compared to some I've seen the past weeks but a steady line of people labour up. I go stand on the bridge over the river as it thunders underneath and am finally ready to enter the church.

The gorge is beautiful, calm yet turbulent (from the water) and I have it almost to myself

​

There's a mixed set of motivations for people to visit and that is pretty clear from the get go. There are people with their cameras out, walking and clicking, others deep in prayer in the pews. One woman, not young by any stretch, drops to her knees on crossing the threshold. I don't mean she kneels down, one knee at a time, I mean she drops from a standing position both knees clattering onto the tiled floor simultaneously.
I follow the crowd to the altar and to the famous "apparition" that is the reason for this church.
It's a painting on the walls of a cliff that is now a part of the church.
This is not what I was expecting (having done little or no research just depending on my vague knowledge).
It appears that my understanding was incorrect and I'm flummoxed by the idea that the painting is divine and just "appeared" to be discovered by a little deaf mute girl. Others in the vicinity are clearly not of the same impression and I feel a strong sense of dismfort descending, almost as if I'm being disrespectful just by being here. The camera stays in my pocket.

I can't begin to imagine the work that went into building this here

​

Outside, I breathe a sigh of relief and toddle downstairs to the museum hoping for some enlightenment. Not really, but an interesting film presentation on the history of the church (it's the third on the site) and the earthquake precautions taken. There's a joke in there somewhere.......
There was also an extensive if repetitive display of pre-Colombian artefacts such as pots and utensils and a recreated grave.

A different view of the gorge.

​

I meandered back up, stopping for coffee and to write up my notes.
The church is interesting as a building given its stunning location but it leaves me cold. The kids happily accompanying their parents with their dogs and a variety of toys are far more interesting to me and much, much warmer. One young fella pushing a plastic dragon on four wheels that flapped its wings and gave a squak was happy as larry. Later, when his new dragon seized up he was inconsolable.
The plaques are so interesting to read, many of them generic but some with detail or the hint of human stories with real depth. Many are dated, the oldest I deciphered from 1954. It was difficult to stand still and read them though.

The waterfall. How smug am I that it inspires a "meh" from me

​

Back at the hotel I updated this, ate well in the restaurant and returned to the church after dark.

With so many places to wander there are a variety of different perspectives to be enjoyed

​

Oh dear! I found the exterior tacky with the multi-coloured, changing lights. Inside, the church was quieter so I could spend a bit more time at the altar.
Nope. I still don't get it.

Like someone let a child loose with lights!

​

Travel is a funny thing. In the museum a man barrelled past me his phone out in front of him like it was following a hidden beacon. The phone saw everything as it waved about while he didn't seem to be taking anything on board.
This is my favourite scene of this famous site - Llamas!
Dressed up for photos for kids (of all ages!) they were so calm and graceful. A little boy donned the proffered sombrero and sat excitedly as if ready to go galloping off while an older girl, clearly sitting there at the behest of parents looked uncomfortable. A toddler screamed as they were lifted up and the photo op was aborted. These were opposite my hotel so I could casually smoke a ciggie and watch all.
Llamas were something I was looking forward to seeing further south. I got to see them the day before I turned north.
Sometimes I think know I'm the luckiest bike tourist in the world!

Llamas! The highlight of my trip to El Santuario de Las Lajas I am a terrible, heathen tourist!

​

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 821 Monday, December 13 Las Lajas to Pedregal 52 km Total KM 14949
Min meters 1776, Max Meters 2938
Total Climb 592 Total Descent 1436
Min Temp 16 Max Temp 34 Ave Temp 25

Turning around and heading "home"

I had a poor night's sleep due to a lot of noise. There were kids running in the corridor, people conducting conversations from one room to another and what sounded like someone dying. Or maybe he was just drunk and driving the big porcelain truck.
Awake at about 4am didn't help and I half dozed until after 6 when I finally dragged myself up.
I got Roccado from the garage, loaded up and made it to the road before stopping for breakfast. A good breakfast and a friendly, trusting chap. I know he was trusting because he put me at a table opposite from a cupboard where his takings were going. At anytime I could have leaned across and helped myself.

My llamas!! On their way to a day's work

​

Breakfast was a smart idea because I had a 250 meter climb from the get go. I availed of the separate path and pushed the first while moreso out of an urge to see as much of the little place than anything else. Unlike the grey of yesterday, today was shaping up to be BlueSky Beautiful.

​

At the viewing platform looking down on the church I met two guys who were all questions and passed a pleasant half an hour. They wanted me to have a beer with them - I passed.

​

I wasn't hungry and wasn't disappointed then when no cuy restaurants were open on the edge of Ipiales. Instead, I had a decision to make.

​

I'm heading north again but the only road is the PanAmerican that I've already travelled so I plotted a roundabout route to get me back to Pasto. That route diverts me around Ipiales and away from the PanAmerican for a day, maybe two, or maybe three and while I've no great urge to return to Ipiales itself I discovered last night that there's an Ecuadorian consulate in Ipiales. Christmas in Quito has a ring to it.

A steep climb and interesting scenery - always a good combination

​

I don't think I've fully explained the logistics......
The land border is closed between Ecuador & Colombia. That doesn't mean that there's no traffic - there is - but it does mean its closed to foreigners.
It's possible to fly into Ecuador but a visa is required (as opposed to an automatic right to enter for X days). The visa is complicated with numerous requirements, the most onerous being a (Spanish language) Police report from any country lived in for the past five years. A tad complicated for me.
It had been announced that the border would reopen December 1, then 15. Two days from today.
The borders on the other side, mainly Peru, of interest to me are also closed.

That's Ecuador down thataway!

​

The danger of taking a quick hop into Ecuador is that I'm teasing myself. I hadn't planned on visiting Quito but I'd get to cross the equator! On my bike!!

I decided to visit the consulate and see what the story was.
Well, they moved and didn't tell Google who have it in the wrong place. I eventually tracked it down and a pleasant Policeman promised to mind my bike. When I went to look for it, I realised I'd left my cable lock in San Juan!
He wasn't being particularly generous because I never got further than the intercom. A very faint, but clear spoken women listened and explianed that there was no way to cross the border, not today, not the 15th and impossible to say into the future. She sounded very nice, spoke immaculately and only raised my desire to visit her homeland!
The Policeman looked at me a little oddly as I started laughing going back to the bike. Time for a coffee!

I went to the second Plaza, more lively and sunnier than yesterday and got a coffee, had a smoke and a think.
Christmas in Quito was a figary and I wasn't particularly disappointed. In fact, it was good for me to hear from the horse's mouth that the border was closed and remaining so.
I'm happy with my plan, rough as it is, but the opportunity to hop across the border into a new country, ride across the equator was too good not to explore fully.
I finished up my coffee and climbed back on the bike. Another visit to an ATM and I'd set off.

I'm still not sure why I did it, maybe it was the lock back in San Juan but I didn't continue through Ipiales and out the other side to bring me back onto my planned route, instead I broke the "rules" and rejoined the PanAmerican to cycle back the road I had travelled to get here.
It didn't make any sense but something, somewhere was pushing me to go back. So I did.

Back on the PanAmerican! Panamá is just a distant nightmare.....

​

I set off in heavy traffic and was second guessing myself the whole way up a hill out of Ipiales. I could still rejoin my planned route so I switched it off. On a Monday traffic was heavier than Sunday but the standard of driving was better. I bribed myself with the idea of a second breakfast in the place I ate in yesterday. And I should be able to retrieve my lock!

This is looking different to yesterday....

​

Those positive thoughts got me to the restaurant and satisfied again (this time it was all women so one of them got the tip) I set off into a long descent.

The road was familiar but I was in a different world in terms of beauty. No, I was in a different galaxy!
There was a ferocious headwind to make things interesting but the ride was exhilarating!

It didn't take long for any doubts about doubling back to melt away under the bright sun

​

I don't have the words. Pictures will have to suffice. And for once they do a fair job in demonstrating what I was seeing.

To be continued.......


Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 821 Monday, December 13 Las Lajas to Pedregal 52 km Total KM 14949
Min meters 1776, Max Meters 2938
Total Climb 592 Total Descent 1436
Min Temp 16 Max Temp 34 Ave Temp 25

Turning around and heading "home" Part Two

There was a clarity, a depth and a vitality today that was absent yesterday

Visibility was unhindered and I felt like I could see forever

By now I'm going downhill. What a road and what a view!

Without a care in the world I could stop at will for anything that caught my eye

Everything seemed so alive, so vital, myself included! There were whoops of joy many, many times

What an amazing landscape and what an interesting place to live!

An agricultural area lots of different crops on display

And a road that was constantly changing....

​

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 821 Monday, December 13 Las Lajas to Pedregal 52 km Total KM 14949
Min meters 1776, Max Meters 2938
Total Climb 592 Total Descent 1436
Min Temp 16 Max Temp 34 Ave Temp 25

Turning around and heading "home" Part Three

Variety is the word of the day. Variety in the landscape, in the wildness and cultivation, in the plants.....

The side of the road? Amazing and oozing character. In the sun (too bright now to photograph properly) there was so much more to see than yesterday

Sometimes I swept through the curves and sometimes I just stopped to savour.

I had it all, even waterfalls

And a little río......

I had a big río too!

The landscape never stopped amazing me

I wasn't in the least bothered about doubling back - this was a bright, shiny new world for me to explore

Who wouldn't like to freewheel down here?

If the "Big View" was restricted there were lots of "local" views.

​

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 821 Monday, December 13 Las Lajas to Pedregal 52 km Total KM 14949
Min meters 1776, Max Meters 2938
Total Climb 592 Total Descent 1436
Min Temp 16 Max Temp 34 Ave Temp 25

Turning around and heading "home" Part Four

The cliffs draped in moss were an atmospheric highlight. The sun brought so much life to what had been dull

Waterfall

Trying to capture the perfect "cliff" shot

Still trying.......

Still trying.......

A lot of the time I was following the río

Sometimes the "Big View" was restricted.....

And sometimes not so much

Each curve threw up something new

Again and again....

​

To be continued......

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 821 Monday, December 13 Las Lajas to Pedregal 52 km Total KM 14949
Min meters 1776, Max Meters 2938
Total Climb 592 Total Descent 1436
Min Temp 16 Max Temp 34 Ave Temp 25

Turning around and heading "home" Part Five

Still trying to capture the cliff. I just found the moss to be so atmospheric

Don't forget to look back!

I've become accustomed to flat, regular and ordered fields in NL. I'm not in Holland anymore

This is one of my favourite shots. There's a strength, a permanence to these mountains

And similar

In just one shot there is so much going on

Just so much going on......

I swept down here, hit roadworks and ran back up the hill to capture it forever....

Mountains in front of mountains

Can't have too many photos of cliffs!

​

To be continued......

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 821 Monday, December 13 Las Lajas to Pedregal 52 km Total KM 14949
Min meters 1776, Max Meters 2938
Total Climb 592 Total Descent 1436
Min Temp 16 Max Temp 34 Ave Temp 25

Turning around and heading "home" Part Six

For once the camera is doing justice to what I am seeing!

It was about here that I really started to feel good about taking this road. It was familiar, yet so, so different in good weather (and downhill)

Two sets of roadworks broke up traffic so I had entire sections to myself. Just me. And this .....

And this

Roccado happy to be back on the PanAmerican

Looking back. The view on the other day was nothing like this!

That's my road way over there

There's a río down there!

I'm amazed at the work ethic of the farmers to be able to carve farmland out of the mountains

​

To be continued......

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 821 Monday, December 13 Las Lajas to Pedregal 52 km Total KM 14949
Min meters 1776, Max Meters 2938
Total Climb 592 Total Descent 1436
Min Temp 16 Max Temp 34 Ave Temp 25

Turning around and heading "home" Part Seven

A little climb and I needed a breather

Dangerous Bends! Better and better!

No words........

Of all the places to have to pull in to let the traffic by 😊

My road way over there......

Looking back......

Now that's a waterfall!!

That's my road way back there!

That's why I pull in. There's typically a ling line of traffic and I don't need to be cycling when it passes by

I do like my valleys!

​

To be continued......

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 821 Monday, December 13 Las Lajas to Pedregal 52 km Total KM 14949
Min meters 1776, Max Meters 2938
Total Climb 592 Total Descent 1436
Min Temp 16 Max Temp 34 Ave Temp 25

Turning around and heading "home" Part Eight

It's not all about the big views

This is one of the great roads!

I've seen lots and lots of Colombian mountains but I'm nowhere near bored of them yet!!

Light and shade can make such a difference

No words

Should I be getting worried about those dark clouds? Hell no! I'm in no rush!

Thank you road designers!

Hack through a hill and the walls come to life in these parts. There is a vitality that is palpable

Moss overhanging the road. In real life this is spectacular!

​

To be continued......

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 821 Monday, December 13 Las Lajas to Pedregal 52 km Total KM 14949
Min meters 1776, Max Meters 2938
Total Climb 592 Total Descent 1436
Min Temp 16 Max Temp 34 Ave Temp 25

Turning around and heading "home" Part Nine

The other day this was blanketed in white cloud

The Big View disappears and the little view becomes colourful

Stopping to enjoy the sweeping even more

And stopping again because I really don't want the day to end

The end of the day. The sky would get darker and heavier until it would eventually burst.

I was home in Pedregal before the rain. Even this little place looked brighter and livelier

​

I had not been looking forward to this day - the day I turned around and this Big, Big Trip started heading for home - but as is so often the case on this trip my fears were unfounded and were obliterated by the journey.
The Touring Gods truly do look out for me.


Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 822 Tuesday, December 14 Pedregal to Sandoná 65 km Total KM 15014
Min meters 1628, Max Meters 2774
Total Climb 1693 Total Descent 1670
Min Temp 12 Max Temp 35 Ave Temp 19

And off the PanAmerican we go!

Back in the same hotel in Pedregal I didn't have the same room. Instead I was upstairs in a bigger room with lots of sockets! Up a little after 4 I brewed up coffee, boiled eggs and had a decent breakfast. Unfortunately, I was in no rush to leave despite having a big climb ahead of me. I lazed.

Pedregal early in the morning. It's a busy little place, deceptively so and there are certainly worse places I could have doubled back to

​

Finally packed up I rolled out into a misty, cloudy morning with patches of blue. I'd had a good look around on my first visit a couple of days ago but thanks to the changeable weather I got to enjoy different perspectives of the place.

This sight had me thinking that I was in for a great day!

​

Setting off back on to the highway I was filled with determination. I'd 1000 meters to climb, all pretty much on the highway with a great shoulder, then I'd be turning off and taking a smaller road to Sandoná, another recommendation of my Colombian amiga. That section was pretty much all downhill, although I'd finish with a bit of climbing. An early arrival and a chance to enjoy a little Colombian town again.

Is it just me or is there some magic in the air? That's where I'm headed to. Rarely in my world do I tackle a climb with such gusto! (Once I'd regained my balance after some mild vertigo😊)

​

My determination for an early arrival didn't last past the first couple of hundred meters! I had to cross a bridge, but unlike the other day, I had the "open" view. I took a pedestrian walkway beside the road and started to suffer from a bit of vertigo once I was out over the drop! Solid steel railings were in place (I checked them regularly!) but I still felt very nervous and at times dizzy. I did manage a few photos as down below two ríos merged. On the other side I had to sit down and regain some kind of equilibrium.

There was something about the jumbled up, disordered chaos of this scene that spoke to me. And clouds! ​

It wasn't the greatest of days but neither was it the worst. The gradient was manageable (for now) and I stopped often for photos. It seemed like the countryside was saying "So, you're in a rush, are you? Let me see if I can help.....".
Low cloud hugging the mountain tops, the sun blasting through the cloud and an ever changing patchwork quilt of fields were all very distracting.

Clouds! I love 'em!

​

Arriving at a toll plaza I knew that things were going to get tougher. I recalled this from the other day and well remembered the trucks labouring up. Before that though, I had to deal with five big dogs who went for me. Cowards they were, running scared when I stopped but they had gotten closer to me on both sides than most other dogs have done recently. That'll get the heart going for a big climb!

I'm finding the patchwork effect of the country to be enchanting. It's so interesting to see fields carved out on crazy slopes and then to remember that all work is done by hand.

​

As I got higher and higher there was more and more blue so more sun. I was congratulating myself on my instincts earlier in the morning. This was a very pleasant day on the bike, climbing notwithstanding.

Patchwork and a meandering río? Is it Christmas already?

​

The weather really seemed to be complementing the scenery and everything looked so good and so clear in the sunshine.

Let's not forget the "small views"!

​

With slow progress and pretty impressive views I was in a pretty happy place. I was pleasantly surprised to find myself in good form despite heading away from Ecuador and not in the least bit bothered by the fact that I was re-covering old ground. It prompted me into thinking that a lot of Colombia has really been about the journey and not so much the destination. I've had lots of short days - although many with a fair whack of climbing - I've taken figaries and travelled on some wonderful roads when the main road would have been easier, I've accidentally knocked off the longest climb in the world (or one of them).
I know I'm repeating myself but I feel very comfortable here. I think that sense of comfort makes it easier to travel "in the moment" and make things up as I go along. I have a great collection of bike tales from Colombia. Very few of them are about places - they're about the travelling.
I adore México and think longingly of it but I'm thinking that for pure travelling enjoyment Colombia may be King - But ....... I wonder how México would appear to me now with more improved Spanish?

A waterfall, a río, a winding road, loads of plants and trees..... And low cloud! Magic!

​

Coming up to 10:30am I was approaching the small town of Tangua where I hoped to eat. A roadside restaurant served up a decent eggs and rice washed down with two coffees and a pastry for dessert. I had only 300 more meters to go and then I'd be off into new country. I felt pretty good.

Looking back at where I've come from. I did that a lot today and now as I write up the caption for the photo do I realise that not once did I think longingly or sadly of Ecuador. That's the power of Colombia!

​

To be continued........

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 822 Tuesday, December 14 Pedregal to Sandoná 65 km Total KM 15014
Min meters 1628, Max Meters 2774
Total Climb 1693 Total Descent 1670
Min Temp 12 Max Temp 35 Ave Temp 19

And off the PanAmerican we go! Part Two

With all that climbing I'm getting pretty high!

Roccado! Conqueror of all in front of him!

The blues, the whites, the greens.... Beautiful and (not for the first time) so, so alive!

Sometimes the sky was just phenomenal

Sometimes the trees require a pause and a bit of appreciation

Again, blues, whites, greens. The sun, so powerful in these parts, really can change things up.

Things can change quickly in the sky.

Looking back on what I could have been seeing the other day - only I didn't!

I definitely didn't have this clarity

Just......Wow!

​

To be continued........

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 822 Tuesday, December 14 Pedregal to Sandoná 65 km Total KM 15014
Min meters 1628, Max Meters 2774
Total Climb 1693 Total Descent 1670
Min Temp 12 Max Temp 35 Ave Temp 19

And off the PanAmerican we go! Part Three

I was too distracted to pay too much attention to that grey cloud looming in on me

Sometimes I was reminded of Ireland - just on a totally different scale!

No words!

Spoilt! I'm a spoilt bike tourist!

The town of Tangua.

​

Unfortunately the weather started to turn and I had to don my rainjacket. It lightened off and then before the summit stopped altogether. On reaching the top I pulled in to a store for a rare Coke and a bar of chocolate - I felt like celebrating! 50km to go and pretty much all downhill!

Off the PanAmerican, into the rain but what wonderful countryside! I'm not looking at it anymore - I've cycled right into it!​

Then the rain started! And not light rain. The shop had an outdoor table with a roof so I sheltered there and wrote up some notes. The rain continued so I posted on Facebook. Still it continued so I dug out all my foul weather gear - a balaclava, waterproof gloves, rain trousers and extra layers.

And coffee! I can reach out and touch the plants. I don't understand it but these are my "bliss" plants

​

Three times I got ready to roll off and three times the rain picked up again. Eventually at about 2:30 I set off in the rain.

It's not exactly a comforting sky...... But not a feck was given

​

The road was quietish and my descent was peppered with short ascents which were great for getting me warm. I quickly arrived in the little village of Yacuanquer and was absolutely charmed by its Christmas displays. A little lad on a bike came over for a chat. A friendly place. I considered staying but decided to push on as the rain had lightened.

Coffee country. I highly recommend it!

​

The road was even quieter from now on and I was slap bang in the countryside as opposed to looking at it over barriers. There were regular climbs to warm me up mixed in with the long descent (I must really start looking at Osmand in landscape mode)

Sometimes the clouds teased me

​

To be continued........

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/