HobbesOnTour
Guru
- Location
- España
Day 755, Thursday, October 07, 2021, San Gil to Barichara (via Villa Nueva), 31km Total KM 12703
Min meters 1120, Max Meters 1627
Total Climb 834 Total Descent 646
Min Temp 22 Max Temp 41 Ave Temp 29
Figaries on top of figaries!
I woke up confused.
A bad night's sleep induced by cramp that had to be walked off had me up a few times. It had been my (provisional) figary to head up to Guane, a small town in the mountains, but it was close to 9 am and that would be in the heat of the day. Maybe I should stay here and take a daytrip unloaded? The place I was staying in was only OK. The internet was poor, I got locked in a bathroom because of a bad lock, the wash basin was blocked dumping water on the floor and I had no key for my room. San Gil is a touristy spot and options are limited especially at the bottom end of the scale.
It wasn't just interesting it was wonderful! Peaceful and quiet, full of plants, birds and squirrels (possibly other animals too) it had two swiftly flowing rivers running through it. There was a swimming pool too!
I bought a coffee and wandered. So, so different from the busy, busy town outside. I was charmed and my grumpiness lifted. I'd stay another day, explore the town a little, come back to this park and write up my notes (so inspirational) and head up to Guane tomorrow.
I went upstairs and started to get organised for spending the day outside when a tap on my door resulted in a "pocito" increase in the rate. Almost 50%!
No. Just no.
Instead of packing for the day, I packed to leave and was on the road for 11:30, destination Barichara.
Barichara is a bigger town on the way to Guane with more (reasonable) priced accommodation options. A quick scan of Booking gave me an excellent last minute deal. (The place I left had vacancies at the lower rate!)
Spying some shade I pulled in and sat down for a while. I was in no rush and there was no point in pushing myself too hard.
That's when I met Chu who pulled up in his motorbike. Enthused by my trip he said that there were a lot of people in Barichara who would want to meet me. He gave me complicated directions to his house and invited me to call around when I made it up.
I continued on up, making use of the shade when offered. The views were very pretty and traffic was light. Easy going except for the heat and climbing.
Leaving San Gil. Feckin' yellow cabs again! Damn steep too! The Plaza is pretty and well used, the rest of the town that I saw is functional, urban and to my eyes ugly.
Spying a restaurant I pulled in. Mildly peckish and very thirsty I ordered a coffee and water and looked at the menu. Ordering blind I actually ordered a soup! Colombia may cure me of my soup phobia!
My coffee when it came was delicious! Mexican style, flavoured with cinnamon and cloves. The boss was in a chef's jacket and neat trousers, the best turned out restaurant employee I've seen in a long time and I was his only customer. He was very happy when I raved about his coffee.
A young couple came in for a while and left before me since I was in no rush. Noticing the bike the young fella started talking about me to the boss. When the boss asked me where I'd come from all three were amazed. And again when I said where I hoped to go. Young fella was trying to be cool but his girlfriend kept saying "Oh my God" (in English) and her eyes were on fire! He quickly pulled her out of there!
Time to go I paid my bill, the chef honestly returning the extra note (I was confused again! In my defence there are old and new notes).
He offered me a final coffee before I left but with the heat and more climbing ahead of me I declined.
Eventually, he got some water, poured it in and they set off. Not a single word spoken between them yet some very serious communication had taken place!
Soon I was rolling downhill and enjoying the cooling breeze. It was pretty much all downhill now to the hotel outside town. I thought I'd pass the hotel, hit town and then return. It had a swimming pool! A dip would be nice! Ah, bliss!
I don't know why I did it but at a sign for Villa Nueva I stopped, thought, had a quick look on Osmnand and turned off.
A wiser person than I would have put a bit more thought into things (a town called New Town may not be a cultural attraction?) and a less impetuous one might have looked at the elevation profile in a bit more detail before commiting but what else are figaries and adventures for?
Villa Nueva was a disappointment - new certainly, straight, angular and very dusty. I couldn't even get down the main street as it was being worked on behind big black sheets. By instinct I found the Plaza, better than I had started to expect with a lovely tree as a centrepiece. The church was coldly modern.
Then it was back through the dusty town and onto backroads to take me to Barichara. I had got a bit of a shock before I left the Plaza to see it was heading on for 5pm - and darkness!
The surface varied from concrete lanes for the really steep bits to compact mud to gravel. Hard work at times but great fun!
Meeting a tuk tuk my mind relaxed a bit. If a tuk tuk can travel the road so can I. Despite feeling a bit of pressure due to the time I couldn't help stopping regularly. This was adventure! Out in the middle of nowhere, just the ocassional motorbike passing by on a narrow, twisty road of gravel, sand, and whatever else happened to be there.
I wasn't going to go looking for Chu in the dark.
Informed that the Booking rate was wrong (way too low!) the receptionist agreed to honour it anyway. Checking in took a while, finding my room another. The shower took even longer - I had hot water!!!!
Then down to organise food. Without a restaurant it was order in. My first choice wasn't open so all in all it took about 30 minutes to order a pizza.
I have a fabulous room that looks over a pool! Yes a pool! And I'm too tired to do anything about it.
Not a thing was regretted!
Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098
Min meters 1120, Max Meters 1627
Total Climb 834 Total Descent 646
Min Temp 22 Max Temp 41 Ave Temp 29
Figaries on top of figaries!
I woke up confused.
A bad night's sleep induced by cramp that had to be walked off had me up a few times. It had been my (provisional) figary to head up to Guane, a small town in the mountains, but it was close to 9 am and that would be in the heat of the day. Maybe I should stay here and take a daytrip unloaded? The place I was staying in was only OK. The internet was poor, I got locked in a bathroom because of a bad lock, the wash basin was blocked dumping water on the floor and I had no key for my room. San Gil is a touristy spot and options are limited especially at the bottom end of the scale.
Two fabulous trees in the park. Labeled as "Happy Marriage" they are 310 years old! Given the development of the town it's a testament to someone that this little oasis of calm and beauty survived.
Grumpy, I got up and headed for a little riverside park that showed up as an interesting place.
It wasn't just interesting it was wonderful! Peaceful and quiet, full of plants, birds and squirrels (possibly other animals too) it had two swiftly flowing rivers running through it. There was a swimming pool too!
I bought a coffee and wandered. So, so different from the busy, busy town outside. I was charmed and my grumpiness lifted. I'd stay another day, explore the town a little, come back to this park and write up my notes (so inspirational) and head up to Guane tomorrow.
Walking through the park. Birds singing, squirrels playing (and looking for food), ríos rippling...... A fantastic little spot. I stopped to compliment the little older lady who took my money and she was delighted, leaving her booth to talk to me and making sure to explain that with my armband I could return all day long!
I returned to the hotel and instead of checking out asked to stay another night. No problem!
I went upstairs and started to get organised for spending the day outside when a tap on my door resulted in a "pocito" increase in the rate. Almost 50%!
No. Just no.
Instead of packing for the day, I packed to leave and was on the road for 11:30, destination Barichara.
Barichara is a bigger town on the way to Guane with more (reasonable) priced accommodation options. A quick scan of Booking gave me an excellent last minute deal. (The place I left had vacancies at the lower rate!)
I don't know what it is but put me on or near water and I am happy and calm. It was around here I decided to stay an extra day
There was climbing and there was bright sun and heat. Plus there was a tad of frustration that having made up my mind I'd had to change it last minute.
Spying some shade I pulled in and sat down for a while. I was in no rush and there was no point in pushing myself too hard.
That's when I met Chu who pulled up in his motorbike. Enthused by my trip he said that there were a lot of people in Barichara who would want to meet me. He gave me complicated directions to his house and invited me to call around when I made it up.
I continued on up, making use of the shade when offered. The views were very pretty and traffic was light. Easy going except for the heat and climbing.
Leaving San Gil. Feckin' yellow cabs again! Damn steep too! The Plaza is pretty and well used, the rest of the town that I saw is functional, urban and to my eyes ugly.
My coffee when it came was delicious! Mexican style, flavoured with cinnamon and cloves. The boss was in a chef's jacket and neat trousers, the best turned out restaurant employee I've seen in a long time and I was his only customer. He was very happy when I raved about his coffee.
A young couple came in for a while and left before me since I was in no rush. Noticing the bike the young fella started talking about me to the boss. When the boss asked me where I'd come from all three were amazed. And again when I said where I hoped to go. Young fella was trying to be cool but his girlfriend kept saying "Oh my God" (in English) and her eyes were on fire! He quickly pulled her out of there!
Time to go I paid my bill, the chef honestly returning the extra note (I was confused again! In my defence there are old and new notes).
He offered me a final coffee before I left but with the heat and more climbing ahead of me I declined.
A good indication of the road to Barichara - decent surface, quiet, interesting landscape. Pleasant.
Back on the road again I stopped again near the peak for something cold. Sitting down there was a very cold atmosphere beside me. A car had pulled in, steam coming out of something in the engine. A woman was looking very, very unhappy, a kind of "I told you" vibe coming from her. A man, big, strong but looking very sheepish was standing looking at the car.
Eventually, he got some water, poured it in and they set off. Not a single word spoken between them yet some very serious communication had taken place!
Soon I was rolling downhill and enjoying the cooling breeze. It was pretty much all downhill now to the hotel outside town. I thought I'd pass the hotel, hit town and then return. It had a swimming pool! A dip would be nice! Ah, bliss!
I don't know why I did it but at a sign for Villa Nueva I stopped, thought, had a quick look on Osmnand and turned off.
A wiser person than I would have put a bit more thought into things (a town called New Town may not be a cultural attraction?) and a less impetuous one might have looked at the elevation profile in a bit more detail before commiting but what else are figaries and adventures for?
The pleasant Plaza in Villa Nueva. A quiet, dusty town, agricultural with lots of buildings of red (local) blocks, most left unplastered. I received lots of stares that I took as simple curiosity and nothing more
Not surprisingly, a lesser road off a lesser road was quiet and a lot of fun as it ran downwards. A slightly different perspective was had regaining all the height! I was in rich, fertile farmland now the soil very orange.
Villa Nueva was a disappointment - new certainly, straight, angular and very dusty. I couldn't even get down the main street as it was being worked on behind big black sheets. By instinct I found the Plaza, better than I had started to expect with a lovely tree as a centrepiece. The church was coldly modern.
Then it was back through the dusty town and onto backroads to take me to Barichara. I had got a bit of a shock before I left the Plaza to see it was heading on for 5pm - and darkness!
The landscape on the way in to Villa Nueva. I'd passed several decent sized farm operations and to my untrained eye the land looked fertile and productive.
The smart, sensible thing to do would be to double back to where I had turned off. The adventurous thing to do would be to take the backroad Osmand said would bring me to Barichara. It's been a long time since I was smart and sensible!
Adventure!!!! There's something so exciting about taking a figary like this! I have no idea if I'll be able to travel the whole way, I didn't look at the elevation chart and if it rains on that surface I'm fecked! If the worst comes to the worst I'll have a bad day but a funny story.
From the get go there was a ridiculously steep climb. I had no idea of the relative altitudes of Barichara and Villa Nueva but thankfully it was relatively flat or downhill with the ocassional steep climb for fun.
The surface varied from concrete lanes for the really steep bits to compact mud to gravel. Hard work at times but great fun!
Meeting a tuk tuk my mind relaxed a bit. If a tuk tuk can travel the road so can I. Despite feeling a bit of pressure due to the time I couldn't help stopping regularly. This was adventure! Out in the middle of nowhere, just the ocassional motorbike passing by on a narrow, twisty road of gravel, sand, and whatever else happened to be there.
Ah! So that's why the buildings are red around here! Narrow roads, stonewalls an ominous sky that I'm ignoring and bemused motorcyclists. Great fun!
Arriving into Barichara Osmand let me down by leading me down a very, very, steep, crazy paved street to a dead end. No option but to turn around, push back to the top and continue on. I took another death defying street down to the main road and turned towards San Gil and the hotel. Another climb, now in the dark, for a couple of kms and I was home.
I wasn't going to go looking for Chu in the dark.
Informed that the Booking rate was wrong (way too low!) the receptionist agreed to honour it anyway. Checking in took a while, finding my room another. The shower took even longer - I had hot water!!!!
Then down to organise food. Without a restaurant it was order in. My first choice wasn't open so all in all it took about 30 minutes to order a pizza.
I have a fabulous room that looks over a pool! Yes a pool! And I'm too tired to do anything about it.
My first little sashay off the bigger roads in Colombia was a success!
I could have arrived earlier, swam, eaten in town or bought my own ingredients but I took the fun road!
Not a thing was regretted!
Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098