The Beginners Guide to Torque Wrenches
- Thread starter kingrollo
- Start date
Page may contain affiliate links. Please see terms for details.
Sittingduck
Legendary Member
- Location
- Somewhere flat
As above they are pretty straight forward to use. I have a similar one, nothing mega expensive - think it was about £25-£30.
The only other thing to consider is the torque ranges on specific tools can differ, e.g. a smaller one like mine may be selectable for torque range from 3 - 16 nM so if you have a requirement for regularly adjusting larger bolts you will need one with a range that can handle it. It may well be you need a second one for 20 - 40 nM for example, if you're doing chainring bolts and lockrings and stuff like that.
The only other thing to consider is the torque ranges on specific tools can differ, e.g. a smaller one like mine may be selectable for torque range from 3 - 16 nM so if you have a requirement for regularly adjusting larger bolts you will need one with a range that can handle it. It may well be you need a second one for 20 - 40 nM for example, if you're doing chainring bolts and lockrings and stuff like that.
Profpointy
Legendary Member
I must admit I've never bothered for a bike, though would, and have, used one for a car engine rebuild. That said, I reckon I do have reasonable mechanical sympathy so am confident I'm not going to snap off the typical fasteners on a bike. Big caveat is I've never owned a carbon fibre bike where I gather these things are a lot more critical and the word is that it's good idea to get a torque wrench.
If you're new to these things, make sure you check the range of torque before buying. You need a very different tool for car cylinder head screws or suspension parts than you would for an m4 screw on a bike. The former would resemble a 1/2" drive ratchet with a long handle but the bike sized tool would look like a screwdriver.
If you're new to these things, make sure you check the range of torque before buying. You need a very different tool for car cylinder head screws or suspension parts than you would for an m4 screw on a bike. The former would resemble a 1/2" drive ratchet with a long handle but the bike sized tool would look like a screwdriver.
rogerzilla
Legendary Member
There are lots of types. The bigger ones tend to be the "click" type described above. Smaller ones may just have a rotary scale which you watch while tightening, until the line is at the desired torque. There are also long "beam" types and small one pre-set for one torque, e.g. 5Nm.
Torque is a really poor analogue for clamping force or bolt tension. A used, cleaned, lubricated thread will give a far higher clamping force for a given torque than a new or dirty, dry, thread. Bike manufacturers rarely specify thread conditions, so I assume clean and lubricated. Automotive applications usually specify dry threads.
Torque is a really poor analogue for clamping force or bolt tension. A used, cleaned, lubricated thread will give a far higher clamping force for a given torque than a new or dirty, dry, thread. Bike manufacturers rarely specify thread conditions, so I assume clean and lubricated. Automotive applications usually specify dry threads.
numbnuts
Legendary Member
- Location
- Gone over the hill and far away
I have never felt the need for one in a cycle application, motor vehicles well yes if rebuilding an engine/gearboxes, having worked in a mechanical environment all my life you “get the feel” on how tight to take it, be it on steel or alloys.
harlechjoe
Guest
I love my Lezyne Tourque drive that replaced the old chunky multi-tool I used to cart around. There isn't a fixing on my bicycle that the Tourque can't tackle and bearing in mind hpw easy it is to over-tighten things, its a must-have for ham-
fisted people like me
fisted people like me
slowmotion
Quite dreadful
- Location
- lost somewhere
I have a couple of Sealey torque wrenches that cover the range 5-112 Nm, I think. They cost about £30 each a few years ago and came with calibration certificates. I've been told that it's important to set the torque as close as you can to zero when you leave them stored.
Last edited:
tribanjules
Guru
- Location
- Birmingham
I got the £17 one too and it’s great !
I cringe at Halfords seeing “technician “ using Allen key and way way too much grunt on a pour stem ( 5Nm is small !!)
OP
OP
kingrollo
Guru
Ok - thanks folks - I need it to tighten a seat post. But not the typical collar type. It's like a little wedge that sits in front of the seat post. But the actual bolt you turn is recessed ....
An Allen keys gets in fine - but a multi tool - not great - would these sets you are recommending be able to get into a recessed area ?
An Allen keys gets in fine - but a multi tool - not great - would these sets you are recommending be able to get into a recessed area ?
harlechjoe
Guest
yes - indeed they will !
Peter Salt
Bittersweet
- Location
- Yorkshire, UK
If you get a set, just make sure it comes with a calibration certificate.
If you're tightening the seat post - make sure to use some carbon paste - that way you can get away with tightening it on the lower end of the range and will prevent seizing.
If you're tightening the seat post - make sure to use some carbon paste - that way you can get away with tightening it on the lower end of the range and will prevent seizing.
FrothNinja
Veteran
The mechanics at a few of our local bike shops recommended this one - not the cheapest but good for small stuff & the one they all use at home (as opposed to the very expensive ones they use at their places of work). I started using one because the cost of the damage that could result from over torqueing is eye watering.
Amazon product ASIN B004XHXE1IView: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B004XHXE1I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Amazon product ASIN B004XHXE1IView: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B004XHXE1I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
