Sun Super 5

[Tim330]

Just bought one of these from a guy selling locally. Oddly enough, I've been after one for a while as I had one for years as a teenager, but all the frames are usually small. Thanks to the advice on here to hold out for the right size, I did and got this. Its one I saw up for sale 2 years ago at a place called the Vintage Bike Cartel. They fitted a set of new wheels I believe and spruced it up. Just bought it off the chap who got it from them.

Hoping for some advice here to freshen it up before some riding this summer.

It has its original Raleigh derailleur, but I don't think the last owner got on with it with because the cable was too short or the chain was, judging by the position its in. It changes gear but it fouls slightly.

The pedals need replacing as the bearing in one has gone and is sticking, so I'd like to find out what type of period pedal to put back on - all I can remember from the past was the rat trap type. The toe clips need replacing too.

Seems to have had a V brake conversion, as I'm sure the original had cantilever. I'll have a think about whether to return it to the original or tidy this up as I don't like the cable routing.

I'll be looking for an original Raleigh chain guard for the main chainring to make it look complete as well as retaping the bars with something to match the saddle.

So a bit of work to do but will end up with a nice vintage ride.

Sun Super 5 6

• Tim330
• 27 Feb 2019

Sun Super 5 5

• Tim330
• 27 Feb 2019

Sun Super 5 4

• Tim330
• 27 Feb 2019

Sun Super 5 3

• Tim330
• 27 Feb 2019

Sun Super 5 2

• Tim330
• 27 Feb 2019

Sun Super 5 1

• Tim330
• 27 Feb 2019

 

[MossCommuter]

My first proper bicycle

My little brother swapped it for beer and cigs when I went to Uni

 

[carpenter]

Has the derailleur lost the cable adjuster? it looks like the cable housing is just straight through the adjuster hole

 

[Tim330]

Should have got a better angle. Is something missing here?

Gears

• Tim330
• 27 Feb 2019

 

[midlife]

The sprocket range is at the limit of the rear mech capacity. Might be easier to change the mech to one with more range...

 

[Tim330]

I’m not quite sure what that means, I’m afraid. I suppose the derailleur might not be the original, which should have the range. In which way does it need to adjust and fit?

 

[midlife]

Rear mech is a Huret eco and the largest cog it can take at the back is 28 teeth on a good day, the chain looks very tight and the mech pulled tight. I wonder if someone has chanded thr freewheel?

http://www.disraeligears.co.uk/Site/Huret_Eco_derailleur_2490.html

 

[Cycleops]

Probably is the original derailleur, at least looks like it. Looks like it's lost its adjuster. The block may have been swapped out for one with a lower (bigger) gear.
Thats why the chain is running too close to the big cog as it enters the derailleur causing changing problems. The derailleur can't handle the capacity so you need to change either the block of the derailleur .

 

[midlife]

Eco never had an adjuster iirc as it was intended for a full outer cable system with adjusters on the shifters.?

 

[raleighnut]

Eco never had an adjuster iirc as it was intended for a full outer cable system with adjusters on the shifters.?

Friction shifter, no need for an adjuster you just pull the cable through with everything in top and tighten the clamp up.

Be aware that the top pulley has no sideways 'float' so a botched change can leave the chain sideplates riding on top of the teeth and no drive to the rear wheel, this can lead to an 'undercarriage/top tube interface'

DAMHIKT but I'd always change gear seated if I rode one now.

 

[Tim330]

Friction shifter, no need for an adjuster you just pull the cable through with everything in top and tighten the clamp up.

Be aware that the top pulley has no sideways 'float' so a botched change can leave the chain sideplates riding on top of the teeth and no drive to the rear wheel, this can lead to an 'undercarriage/top tube interface'

DAMHIKT but I'd always change gear seated if I rode one now.

So if it’s not missing it’s adjuster, and is the original mech, then maybe one of the cogs has been replaced with a bigger one? And a 28 cog max should go in?

 

[raleighnut]

So if it’s not missing it’s adjuster, and is the original mech, then maybe one of the cogs has been replaced with a bigger one? And a 28 cog max should go in?

Nah the chain looks too short to me, maybe they ballsed up splitting the chain so had to 'lose' a link to rejoin it (if you pop the pin all the way out it's a sod of a job trying to get it back into the plate)

Try a longer chain cos that looks like a 14-28 rear sprocket to me.

 

[midlife]

New chain on an old freewheel can skip and jump. Might be easier to fit a "new block and chain" as we used to say BITD..

 

[Tim330]

Just checked and the big cog is 28. I just released the cable completely and tried moving the mech but there is barely any give as the chain is keeping it so tight. So yes, I agree that the chain seems too short. The teeth all look in good condition. Didn’t remember it being so loud when it freewheels round though as I turn the wheel.

So I guess a new chain a plate or two longer?
Apologies, not sure about the ‘block’?

 

[raleighnut]

Just checked and the big cog is 28. I just released the cable completely and tried moving the mech but there is barely any give as the chain is keeping it so tight. So yes, I agree that the chain seems too short. The teeth all look in good condition. Didn’t remember it being so loud when it freewheels round though as I turn the wheel.

So I guess a new chain a plate or two longer?
Apologies, not sure about the ‘block’?

'Old Skool' term for freewheel.