Stupid crank removal question.

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w00hoo_kent

One of the 64K
I have a 2014 Cannondale Synapse 105 disk with a BB30 bottom bracket. It's about 3 months old and has had one shop service. After riding it in the rain the bottom bracket is making noises suggesting it could do with more grease.

I've ordered some ceramic grease to pack the bearing out with, the left hand crank looks like you just undo a big (10mm) hex bolt. Is there more to it than that? I've not done much bike maintenance and I don't want to get part way in to the job and find there's a special tool I don't have. Also, I don't want to break the expensive new bike 'mucking about doing trial and error'.

I guess there are probably 1000 videos of this on the web, but I thought I'd ask you lot first.
 

Mile195

Veteran
Location
West Kent
If it's three months old, I wouldn't even touch it.

Take it back to the dealer if you think you have a problem. As soon as you start doing anything to it yourself you'll almost certainly invalidate the warranty.

Bottom brackets themselves are often sealed and completely unserviceable anyway on all but the very cheapest bikes. You can take them out and change them, but that's about it.
 

MontyVeda

a short-tempered ill-controlled small-minded troll
... the left hand crank looks like you just undo a big (10mm) hex bolt. Is there more to it than that? I've not done much bike maintenance and I don't want to get part way in to the job and find there's a special tool I don't have.
....

there is a specific crank removal tool, but it's not necessary because, if you don't tighten the cranks up enough, they will come loose... so to remove the cranks without a proper crank removal tool, just loosen the bolts a tad and ride round the block a few times... when the cranks come loose, push the bike home.
 

Rickshaw Phil

Overconfidentii Vulgaris
Moderator
+1 for taking it back to the dealer. BB30 are pressed-in cartridge bearings and seem rather prone to problems judging by the frequent comments about them on here, so best if it's dealt with by the dealer as they have the special tools required if new bearings are needed.

Just as an aside: looking up the specs of the bike, the cranks may well be a self extracting type, which would only require the 8 or 10mm allen key to remove. I would not recommend loosening the bolt and riding it to release the arm :stop: as this is a good way to damage the splines. For me this would only ever be a last resort for a crank arm that won't come off.
 
OP
OP
w00hoo_kent

w00hoo_kent

One of the 64K
+1 for taking it back to the dealer. BB30 are pressed-in cartridge bearings and seem rather prone to problems judging by the frequent comments about them on here, so best if it's dealt with by the dealer as they have the special tools required if new bearings are needed.

I'm in that odd position of wanting to be able to do more to the bike and not being beholden to the LBS for it (especially as getting to the LBS is a pain and there are problems I want fixed quicker than I anticipate they can do it) but not really being comfortable in my knowledge of how to do things and really not wanting to damage the bike.

The problem seems pretty obvious, the bike got wet, water has got in to the bearings somewhere displacing some of the grease, the bearings now creak when you pedal.

Solution, put some more grease in.

It's just a shame the implementation bit of that lot seems to be overly involved.
 

Rickshaw Phil

Overconfidentii Vulgaris
Moderator
I completely understand - I like to do all my own maintenance too but there are a lot of special tools required now, more so with the more expensive bikes.

I've got the Park Tools Blue Book in front of me which states that the BB30 bearings are regreasable once the cranks are removed (if you still want to have a go at that) however, if new bearings are needed you need a special tool to drive them out without damaging the bottom bracket shell (or the circlips that act as stops) and a headset press to fit the new bearings.
 

uclown2002

Guru
Location
Harrogate
10mm allen key removes the left crank but IIRC it briefly tightens again during the loosening process so keep going, being mindful of any washers or seal present. Then you can push out the spindle with chainrings on. You might need a rubber mallet to knock it out though. You can then spin the bearings to see if they are rough. That will tell you whether your bearings need replacing, and it is good experience if you're trying to learn things.

If they need replacing then it is lbs time, or get some tools and do it yourself. Some manage with make-shift tools but I'd be inclined to buy proper ones and minimize the possibility of damage.
 
OP
OP
w00hoo_kent

w00hoo_kent

One of the 64K
Sounds good, I'd be surprised if they are shot, they really haven't had to do much work so far. My assumption is that they've had some minimal greasing but would benefit from a more dedicated level of attention. I'll give it a go as soon as the grease arrives. Removal I'll get the LBS to do at the moment.

Thanks for all of the tips (if I can't get the cranks off the next time we're looking at one of the old Raleighs that are supposed to be the 'learning maintenance' bikes we'll take them for a spin :-) )
 
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