Shut Up Legs
Down Under Member
Now that's an idea!
I have a pair of stuck pedals on one of my bikes, and might just try the oven approach, before I give up and buy a new crankset. How long did you heat them, and at what temperature?
Stuck pedals
- Thread starter biking_fox
- Start date
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I have a pair of stuck pedals on one of my bikes, and might just try the oven approach, before I give up and buy a new crankset. How long did you heat them, and at what temperature?
zaza123
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Newcastle-under-Lyme
A plumbers soldering torch may be the way to do it (One with the little Calor cannister). You can pick them up from a DIY place quite cheaply. It will allow you to concentrate the heat a bit and might give you quicker results than heating the whole thing and making it more difficult to handle.
S.Giles
Guest
I had the same problem when I was restoring my (then recently Ebay purchased) bicycle about a year ago. I tried everything I could think of, including heating with a blow torch and clobbering with a hammer, all to no avail. The bike seemed to have been stored in damp and possibly salty conditions for some years, and the pedals had welded themselves permanently to the cranks.
A little lateral thinking eventually solved the problem, though. I dismantled the existing pedals, leaving only the 'axle' part in place, then built new pedals onto the existing axle (not sure if this is the correct term for the part that runs through the middle of the pedal and is attached to the crank) using parts from a newly-purchased pedal set. Although this procedure did involve fiddling around with ball-bearings, grease, and suchlike, it was a complete success, was interesting, and I have since done several thousand miles on the re-built pedals with no problems. I don't mind spending time on this sort of thing so long as I learn something from the experience.
I'm not sure to what degree pedal parts are standardised, but the first set of pedals I purchased fitted the existing axles perfectly.
Steve
A little lateral thinking eventually solved the problem, though. I dismantled the existing pedals, leaving only the 'axle' part in place, then built new pedals onto the existing axle (not sure if this is the correct term for the part that runs through the middle of the pedal and is attached to the crank) using parts from a newly-purchased pedal set. Although this procedure did involve fiddling around with ball-bearings, grease, and suchlike, it was a complete success, was interesting, and I have since done several thousand miles on the re-built pedals with no problems. I don't mind spending time on this sort of thing so long as I learn something from the experience.
I'm not sure to what degree pedal parts are standardised, but the first set of pedals I purchased fitted the existing axles perfectly.
Steve
sgl5gjr
Senior Member
- Location
- Huntingdon
sometimes the blow torch has to be deployed..... generally Plus Gas or Sterling graphite penetrating oil does the trick...
Yellow Saddle
Guru
- Location
- Loch side.
I can guarantee you that no amount of penetrating oil, whether super thin or infused with a blend of magic high-tech ingredients will do the trick. That's all a waste of time and that stuff stinks. Brute force with some shock, as suggested. Buy yourself an 8 or 10mm allen key socket on a 1/2 inch drive and take the lot to a car tyre place. They have impact drivers. Before you do, mark the direction of turn for them with a black permanent marker.
shadow master
Well-Known Member
Heat up proper pedal spanner foot on opposite pedal bend over and pull up...never been beaten by one in 30 years....mind you I'm an animal!
Globalti
Legendary Member
Agreed with Yellow Saddle, penetrative oil or solvent is twaddle and a waste of time. The spindle has rusted into the crank. Same problem as stuck alloy seatposts in steel frames.
Support the crank well and shock it free with a big hammer. Hitting the end of the axle very hard in the direction of its axis may help to break the chemical bond.
Support the crank well and shock it free with a big hammer. Hitting the end of the axle very hard in the direction of its axis may help to break the chemical bond.
