cyberknight
As long as I breathe, I attack.
- Location
- Land of confusion
New bike is the only answer surely ? 
stuck bolt - rear pannier fixing
- Thread starter gom
- Start date
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OldShep
Veteran
- Location
- South West Scotland
My "go to" tool for that would be a hammer and cold chisel. 
ebikeerwidnes
Guru
- Location
- Z’ha’dum
and then a thing to make the frame the same shape it was before???My "go to" tool for that would be a hammer and cold chisel.
but more seriously - maybe just a small cut in the head and use a SMALL screwdriver to get some grip and a few gentle taps with a hammer to get it moving
Anything involving a sledge hammer near an alloy frame is bound to be 'interesting'
D_97_goodtimes
Senior Member
- Location
- Here and there
I like the new bike option as mentioned earlier.
Plus Gas might do the trick but I suspect rust is the issue to be treated.
You could leave well alone and not try to fix something that ain’t broke.
If it was me I might be tempted to drill through the bolt with a small pilot drill. Then I might try to ream out the remaining bolt whilst using copious amounts of Plus gas And a needle file. I might be tempted to cut the mudguard stays and remove the remaining metal from around the bolt.
Then I might take the frame to local bike shop for them to fix it.
Well as I’m in the shop - no harm in looking.
Plus Gas might do the trick but I suspect rust is the issue to be treated.
You could leave well alone and not try to fix something that ain’t broke.
If it was me I might be tempted to drill through the bolt with a small pilot drill. Then I might try to ream out the remaining bolt whilst using copious amounts of Plus gas And a needle file. I might be tempted to cut the mudguard stays and remove the remaining metal from around the bolt.
Then I might take the frame to local bike shop for them to fix it.
Well as I’m in the shop - no harm in looking.
Before anything else, I would leave it soaked in penetrating oil overnight and then try again - sometimes a nip in the "wrong" direction before trying to undo it helps release it. I haven't had anything stuck that I couldn't get going "conventionally" for a long time but I do remember using an impact driver a few decades ago - it was a very useful tool but make sure you have the dropout properly supported on the other side. Otherwise, if the head is mangled, I would try either filing flats or cutting a slot, followed by cutting/grinding the head down and then drilling it out and retapping the dropout if required.
steveindenmark
Legendary Member
Try a blow touch and a larger allen key.
stoatsngroats
Legendary Member
- Location
- South East
Some penetrating oil entering from the back side might be better, to soak into the threads?
(Careful how you interpret that!)
(Careful how you interpret that!)
Massive amounts of miserable faffing about has been recommended so far.
Go straight in with a drill bit slightly bigger than the threaded section of the bolt and drill the head off. 99 times out of 100 the rest of the bolt will wind straight out - 5 minutes work tops.
It looks like you've got stays for both mudguards and a rack there, so there will still be loads of bolt sticking out to grab hold off, but it'll most likely wind out just using your fingers. Presumably this is stainless steel into steel, so probably not that seized.
Hitting things with hammers isn't easy on a bike without a lot of setting up - they're just not a very 'solid' thing to hit and the force of the blow gets absorbed.
Grinding flats/cutting slots rarely works, and in this case it's only a little tiny bolt to start with.
Go straight in with a drill bit slightly bigger than the threaded section of the bolt and drill the head off. 99 times out of 100 the rest of the bolt will wind straight out - 5 minutes work tops.
It looks like you've got stays for both mudguards and a rack there, so there will still be loads of bolt sticking out to grab hold off, but it'll most likely wind out just using your fingers. Presumably this is stainless steel into steel, so probably not that seized.
Hitting things with hammers isn't easy on a bike without a lot of setting up - they're just not a very 'solid' thing to hit and the force of the blow gets absorbed.
Grinding flats/cutting slots rarely works, and in this case it's only a little tiny bolt to start with.
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OP
OP
gom
Über Member
- Location
- Gloucestershire
Hooray! And cor blimey.
After applying a good deal of penetrating oil yesterday, I have just succeeded by filing flat two sides of the head and using a (large, adjustable) spanner. Both came out with very little further trouble.
Many thanks to all for advice. My first attempt may have worked, but I was pleased to have lots of further options.
New bolts and grease now...
After applying a good deal of penetrating oil yesterday, I have just succeeded by filing flat two sides of the head and using a (large, adjustable) spanner. Both came out with very little further trouble.
Many thanks to all for advice. My first attempt may have worked, but I was pleased to have lots of further options.
New bolts and grease now...
Since the bolt head protrudes so some area to get grip on, a pipe wrench/spanner or vice grip (no filing flat) was the best available option. Also quite bigger leverage than an allen key due to the larger distance to center. A countersunk or so bolt head would have been alot tougher to get loose.
About the latter, nowadays they even produce bolts with heads with a smaller than standard sized hexagon despite there's room for bigger. Seen them many times used to bolt furnishing together. Alike they want people that try to disassemble, to damage the bolt head and fail to do so, at least not without damaging the furnishing.
About the latter, nowadays they even produce bolts with heads with a smaller than standard sized hexagon despite there's room for bigger. Seen them many times used to bolt furnishing together. Alike they want people that try to disassemble, to damage the bolt head and fail to do so, at least not without damaging the furnishing.
