Stick with upgraded bike or buy new

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Mark Griffiths

New Member
Location
Woking, UK
I bought my bike several years ago, with the idea of the odd casual run - Viking San Marino 2008 - spec:
FRAME: Lightweight alloy tubing, aero down tube, mudguard clearance, two sets of bottle bosses and semi integrated head tube. Replaceable rear drop out. FORK: 700C with carbon fibre blades and alloy steerer. GEARS: Shimano Sora 14 speed gears with STI dual control levers. CHAINSET: Prowheel double with alloy cranks and a cartridge BB set. WHEELS: Weinmann XR-18 700C 32 hole double wall alloy rims, with alloy quick release hubs and black spokes. TYRES: Kenda 700C X 23 all black road tyres. BRAKES: Tektro R356 alloy dual pivot. STEERING: HL alloy road handlebar with HL alloy ahead stem. SADDLE: Viking road saddle with micro adjust alloy seat post. FEATURES: Black cork handlebar tape. Toe clips and straps. FRAME SIZES: 53cm, 56cm, 59cm. COLOUR: Anodised red and pearl white.
Over the past year upgrades were:
More current Sora derailleur
Compact front chainset
Replaced chain
Replaced bottom bracket and saddle and brake pads
Rodi Airline Evo wheels
Clipless pedals
Michelin Lithion 2 tyres

The bike does feel a lot better than it did but I do not know how it compares to modern machines.

I am trying to fit in more miles per week - currently 2 sessions between 20 and 30 miles is as much as I can manage since the start of May. I just go out to do the miles and to get overtaken as infrequently as possible. I ride out of Woking UK into the Surrey Hills taking in parts of the 2012 Olympic route.

The devil-hills for me are up to Newlands Corner and up Combe Lane on which I am always overtaken never overtaking - http://maps.google.com/maps?q=combe...ear=Combe+Ln,+Surrey+GU5,+United+Kingdom&z=14 .

The question is - should I upgrade the bike and what to? I'd guess a first upgrade may be something like the Specialized Allez Sport or Boardman Road Race .

I do not yet ride in the Winter months but if I did maybe the Viking bike is good for that.

Note that I am 46, of moderate fitness, mixing cycling with gym work and karate to stay fit.
 

Cyclist33

Guest
Location
Warrington
how about purchasing a carbon frame and forks, and move your existing gear over to that. the difference would be night and day in the frame and youve got the advantge of you know the components work how you want them?

savesa heap of cash over buying a whole bike..
 
OP
OP
M

Mark Griffiths

New Member
Location
Woking, UK
how about purchasing a carbon frame and forks, and move your existing gear over to that. the difference would be night and day in the frame and youve got the advantge of you know the components work how you want them?

savesa heap of cash over buying a whole bike..

Thanks for the suggestion but maybe time to retire the 7 speed....

Cheers
 
OP
OP
M

Mark Griffiths

New Member
Location
Woking, UK
Ended up with a B'twin Triban 7 - apart from a few loose bolts, the bike really works for me and is a quantum leap away from the old Viking San Marino in every way - without having tried other bikes I would still recommend this bike.
Tiagra gears and shifters, carbon fork and seat stays - though I have changed the pedals and wheels (they are now on the old bike) - - my first 30 mile outing today was soooo much better on this bike - came home less tired, with less aches and pains everywhere.
 

cyberknight

As long as I breathe, I attack.
Ended up with a B'twin Triban 7 - apart from a few loose bolts, the bike really works for me and is a quantum leap away from the old Viking San Marino in every way - without having tried other bikes I would still recommend this bike.
Tiagra gears and shifters, carbon fork and seat stays - though I have changed the pedals and wheels (they are now on the old bike) - - my first 30 mile outing today was soooo much better on this bike - came home less tired, with less aches and pains everywhere.
Sounds sweet, keep the viking as a winter/back up bike.
 
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