DRM
Guru
- Location
- West Yorks
Yes, don't have it in there even loose, it's a sure fire way of destroying the the frame, even loose accidents, can & do happen the carbon tubes are not designed to be clamped
I was too doom and gloom there, yours doesn't have the propriety stem and the steerer hasn't been cut down (you have lots of spacers under the stem) but it is as high as it goes.The Propel has a silly/aerodynamic* handlebar & stem set up so once you've decided the bar height by removing spacers you have to cut the stem down to get the cover back on, there is no storing a spacer or two above the bars like on a normal setup, any removes any flexibility for initally getting that wrong or for if you sell it on (aside from buying a new uncut fork and starting again).
So basically the OP is stuck with what he's bought, unless he wants to buy a new Propel fork.. The Propel is all about aero and stiffness and nothing about comfort....
* delete as applicable
I was too doom and gloom there, yours doesn't have the propriety stem and the steerer hasn't been cut down (you have lots of spacers under the stem) but it is as high as it goes.
As said above flip the stem if needed, watch this to make sure you tighten the bolts / top cap in correct order.
DRM is being a little bit dramatic, its fine for storage as long as not tightened, just rested on the clamp, but don't use it as a work clamp when you might be applying force against it.
It is quite an aggressive position bike but might work for you in time, as flexibility improves and your user name changes to "lessfattony" , Really something with a taller head-tube and more "relaxed" position might have been better if you are just getting into road biking.
Not being dramatic, that frame IS CLAMPED ROUND THE TOP TUBE, easily destroyed by forcing carbon fibre to do what it it's not designed to, but hey ho it's not my bike.I was too doom and gloom there, yours doesn't have the propriety stem and the steerer hasn't been cut down (you have lots of spacers under the stem) but it is as high as it goes.
As said above flip the stem if needed, watch this to make sure you tighten the bolts / top cap in correct order.
DRM is being a little bit dramatic, its fine for storage as long as not tightened, just rested on the clamp, but don't use it as a work clamp when you might be applying force against it.
It is quite an aggressive position bike but might work for you in time, as flexibility improves and your user name changes to "lessfattony" , Really something with a taller head-tube and more "relaxed" position might have been better if you are just getting into road biking.
Flipping the stem will not increase the reach.That’s a 7/8 degree stem so by flipping it you will gain about 14/16 degree rise but you’ll then need to compensate for the increased reach it creates.
Ah yes apologies, it has the opposite effect as per this graph. https://www.habcycles.com/fitting.htmlFlipping the stem will not increase the reach.
Nope I just happen to have the same stem fitted to my bike so know how many degrees it is.Christ you sound like you know what your stems!
As I say I’m just looking for options and it seems I have some.
My point still stands however that the stem might need moving down the steerer to compensate for the movement in reach to return it to its previous reach.
'Reach'. The distance from the centre of the seat post to the centre of the handlebar clamp measured horizontally. Is not affected by flipping the stem.Yes, reach measured from the point where it dissects the stack to where the front fork joins the frame is static but the reach to the handlebar hoods will change.