SRAM Red Rear Derailleur

[Andrew_P]

Going home yesterday my rear mech got stuck on the 26t ring almost felt like the cable was frayed stopping it coming down the cassette so I stopped and tried the cable and it seemed ok couldn't get it working so made my way home SS stlye.

Got home bought a new cable pulled out my original and it was fine on closer inspection the spring inside the rear mech is buggered and according to SRAM

A. It is not a serviceable part so a £230+ RD has to be binned for a 50p Spring. (SRAM Tech Dept UK)
B. As it is a Jan 2014 bike it is out of 2 year Warranty tough shoot (SRAM Tech Dept UK)
C. Are SRAM tossers or would you think this is fine?

The bike is well looked after, ridden in rain but kept indoors and always kept clean and tidy. I don't think 2.5 years and 10k miles is good wear and tear add to that the spring itself doesn't look corroded just dull and is snapped at where it looks like it attaches to one side of the RD.

Now I could pick up a Force for £70 or some early 22 speed that match mine are knocking around at £200ish but still 2.5 years life and 50p spring fubars a £300 (RRP) part! But I wouldn't want a Force RD with a SRAM Red bike, cannot really say why except it won't match! Don't think I would notice the difference between the two anyway, maybe get some SRAM Red stickers lol.

Any suggestions?

Really hard to see who to contact @ SRAM other than Tech Support as they default to their dealers won't deal direct and the Bike shop I bought the bike from just offered to sell me a new one..

 

[Milkfloat]

I would look up the CEO details and drop him a direct email.

 

[simon.r]

If you could find out exactly what the spec of the spring is could you source one from elsewhere?

 

[rrarider]

Might be worth contactinghttp://www.leespring.com/uk_int_about_custom.asp?utm_source=UK%20Google%20AdWords%20Campaigns&utm_medium=Google%20AdWords%20Search%20Network&utm_campaign=UK%20Products

I've no experience of such a service but rather than spend all that money, I'd give them a try.

 

[Andrew_P]

If you could find out exactly what the spec of the spring is could you source one from elsewhere?

Might be worth contactinghttp://www.leespring.com/uk_int_about_custom.asp?utm_source=UK%20Google%20AdWords%20Campaigns&utm_medium=Google%20AdWords%20Search%20Network&utm_campaign=UK%20Products

I've no experience of such a service but rather than spend all that money, I'd give them a try.

The spring is not so much the problem rather getting it in and out of the RD it seems to have all non removable parts hard to explain the pins that hold it all together and where it pivots only have one end and that's flat and flush to the metal, I cannot get a good look at the broken side to see how it attach's to the other side anyway to even splitting it open might not solve the problem.

 

[Yellow Saddle]

Post a couple of nice, in-focus pictures of the RD and let's see how this thing comes apart. I've repaired a few in my time but can't say I've done that particular model. Usually the spring breaks at the end and often you can just use a bit of the existing coil and bend a hook in it. It helps if you have a little gas torch or such to get the wire red hot.

 

[Andrew_P]

Post a couple of nice, in-focus pictures of the RD and let's see how this thing comes apart. I've repaired a few in my time but can't say I've done that particular model. Usually the spring breaks at the end and often you can just use a bit of the existing coil and bend a hook in it. It helps if you have a little gas torch or such to get the wire red hot.

I will see what I can take tomorrow!

Here is a stock one you can just about see the spring in the middle between the limiting screws the flat head parts don't come out the other side

 

[keithmac]

You should easily find replacement spring for that looking at it (or make the end usable as has been said).

I've seen on motorcycles people buying £1200 worth of throttle bodies because a £50 part (throttle position sensor) isn't available separately and that's the only thing that goes wrong!.

Happens everywhere and you need a make do and mend attitude to avoid paying through the nose unfortunately..

 

[Yellow Saddle]

Andrew, I see the problem, but there has to be a solution. On some of the RDs that I've taken apart the pivot pins are clearly visible but on this model they have either been obscured by a thick layer of powder coating paint or, they're made like watch strap pins that can expand telescopically. I doubt the latter, it will not be robust enough. There simply HAS to be a pin in there and you will have to find it. I would start by searching with a strong neodymium magnet - the pivot being steel and the body alu. Then I'd start scraping off paint. What I suspect they would do is make the pin enter one way only, with the other end being blind. Even that's not a big problem if you are prepared to do some precision location and drilling.
You will have to drift the pin out and the secret to this is two-fold: you have to have the correct pin punch and you have to have a perfect anvil in the right shape with a little hole in the right place for the pin to come out. This you make from stuff in your workshop. I can't say what will work, but you will have to look around and that may take time. Keep in thinking and the solution will become obvious.

Keith is absolutely right about having the right attitude. This is often not about saving money but about solving a complex problem, which is immensely satisfying. Too many MBA types will tell us that the "opportunity costs" and time and what-have-you is not worth the effort. It always is, even if you fail because the lessons and little skills (and not to mention cool new tools) you pick up in the process is far, far better than anything on TV. This is leasure at its best.