Downward
Guru
- Location
- West Midlands
lukesdad said:
Ok Cool so should I get it to the LBS to sort ??
How much ££ am I looking at ?
Spokes.....
- Thread starter Panter
- Start date
Page may contain affiliate links. Please see terms for details.
Ok Cool so should I get it to the LBS to sort ??
How much ££ am I looking at ?
Crankarm
Guru
- Location
- Nr Cambridge
Get your spoke key out and start truing ............
Downward
Guru
- Location
- West Midlands
Crankarm said:
Is this easy !?
Crankarm
Guru
- Location
- Nr Cambridge
Downward said:
£15-20 I would have thought. That's what an LBS wanted to charge me a few weeks ago for truing a wheel. (Ask me no questions I'll tell you no lies). It came to £18 and they charged me for a couple of new nipples as well
. So I now have a spoke key as truing by the LBS could work out exsponseev over time. I have a few wheels and the roads in my manor are like Baghdad airport 
.I think that the pain which Pants has gone through above should be all the answer you need to that one!Downward said:
It's one of those things which you need to practice to get good at. Whilst practising, you will make things worse before you make them better but, if you don't practice, you'll always be paying the LSB to do something which can, with practice, be fairly quick.
I had a small problem with mine last week and the chap at the LBS not only let me watch but talked me through how to do it for myself, and then didn't charge anything for the job.
Crankarm
Guru
- Location
- Nr Cambridge
Downward said:
Relatively. For starters I would suggest you take a look at the oracle, Sheldon Brown's site. I did. Lots of info on there to assist. Maybe your local libray has a bike maintenance book with a section on wheel building and truing. Worth a try. Mine did.
I've trued 3 wheels now which had slight wobbles in them. They were all handbuilt wheels though so had quality spokes and nipples so it was really easy to turn the spokes. They are now dead true, more true than the one I got done at the LBS which I have now trued properly. It is as straight as an estate agent invited to talk at the annual dinner of the Institute of Advanced Bankers
. You don't want too much tension in the spokes though, otherwise you risk them going PING! Good luck.
Crankarm
Guru
- Location
- Nr Cambridge
lukesdad said:You re a bit of a wag tonight crankarm
Wag ?
OP
OP
Panter
Just call me Chris...
- Location
- Sittingbourne, Kent
As Norm points out, I certainly didn't find it easy 
Having gone through all that drama though, the wheel is still intact and still grinding the miles out.
That's well over 4000miles now in fact, on the notoriously poor Alex DA22's that came with the Giant SCR3.0. And, that's with a fat bloke perched on top so they're doing Ok
Having gone through all that drama though, the wheel is still intact and still grinding the miles out.
That's well over 4000miles now in fact, on the notoriously poor Alex DA22's that came with the Giant SCR3.0. And, that's with a fat bloke perched on top so they're doing Ok
PpPete
Legendary Member
- Location
- Chandler's Ford
Panter said:As Norm points out, I certainly didn't find it easy
Having gone through all that drama though, the wheel is still intact and still grinding the miles out.
That's well over 4000miles now in fact, on the notoriously poor Alex DA22's that came with the Giant SCR3.0. And, that's with a fat bloke perched on top so they're doing Ok
Hello all,
I was going to post a separate topic for this, but being as its being discussed here thought you might be able to help me.
Ive had to true my rear wheel again !! and im conscious of maintaining an even tension as best I can but am also slightly ocd in that im trying to chase perfection which I can no doubt not acheive at home using a crayon stuck to the frame and my spoke key.
Now ive got a nice trueish (1mm out) wheel im concerned spoke tension on the drive side is too high !!.
With no special tools how can I tell if this is the case ?. I can flex them at the crossover point with my hands very slightly but they are tight !?.
Ive done 7 miles today and nothing has pinged off !!.
Any help would again be very much apreciated.
I was going to post a separate topic for this, but being as its being discussed here thought you might be able to help me.
Ive had to true my rear wheel again !! and im conscious of maintaining an even tension as best I can but am also slightly ocd in that im trying to chase perfection which I can no doubt not acheive at home using a crayon stuck to the frame and my spoke key.
Now ive got a nice trueish (1mm out) wheel im concerned spoke tension on the drive side is too high !!.
With no special tools how can I tell if this is the case ?. I can flex them at the crossover point with my hands very slightly but they are tight !?.
Ive done 7 miles today and nothing has pinged off !!.
Any help would again be very much apreciated.
Crankarm
Guru
- Location
- Nr Cambridge
bad boy said:
1mm is a fair amount out, your wheel isn't that true!
If the drive side spokes are very tight then loosen them off. The non drive side must be tighter than they need be as well. Is the wheel a factory build or hand build? Is your wheel still dished properly?
I would say if your wheel is originally factory build be prepared for some broken spokes. For best results you will ultimately need a proper wheel builder to true it or rebuild it if you get broken spokes. Just my 2ps worth.
PpPete
Legendary Member
- Location
- Chandler's Ford
You can always check tension by ear....
http://www.bikexprt.com/bicycle/tension.htm
but if you've got the rim as true as you are able, and it has neither split at the eyelets nor pringled, then IMO you are unlikely to have them too tight.
- and build yourself a truing jig from scrap timber, much easier than doing it on the frame, and a dishing stick too. PM me if you want photos of what they should look like.
http://www.bikexprt.com/bicycle/tension.htm
but if you've got the rim as true as you are able, and it has neither split at the eyelets nor pringled, then IMO you are unlikely to have them too tight.
- and build yourself a truing jig from scrap timber, much easier than doing it on the frame, and a dishing stick too. PM me if you want photos of what they should look like.
The wheel is a Mavic Open pro hand built using a deore disk hub for my cdale bad boy.
I think we established via another of my post regarding this wheel a while back it was built poorly. I consider 1mm to be minimal being a disk wheel Ive not got to worry about rubbing, and its very minimal in one place that it occurs tiny deviation.
Porky pete many thanks for that I would def give the jig ago and ive just done a days commute its still as it was no broken spokes or anything, the open pro has double eyelets I think, if that makes a difference !?.
I can flex them by hand but am not sure wat too tight feels like or sounds like to be honest.
I think we established via another of my post regarding this wheel a while back it was built poorly. I consider 1mm to be minimal being a disk wheel Ive not got to worry about rubbing, and its very minimal in one place that it occurs tiny deviation.
Porky pete many thanks for that I would def give the jig ago and ive just done a days commute its still as it was no broken spokes or anything, the open pro has double eyelets I think, if that makes a difference !?.
I can flex them by hand but am not sure wat too tight feels like or sounds like to be honest.
