Spoke length for Deore / A319 rear wheel

[8mph]

Id like to have a go at replacing a few spokes on a rear wheel but can't find the correct spoke length online. Rear hub is Deore FH M530 non disk - Rim is 700c Mavic A319 - the damaged spokes are on the drive slide. Based on info for the FH 535 I'm thinking 288mm perhaps.

 

[I like Skol]

Take one out and measure it.

 

[Moodyman]

Measure one of the good spokes from the bend to the point it meets the nipple, then add another 12mm for the threaded end that sits inside the nipple.

Those are DT Swiss spokes. They’re usually 12mm for the threaded end. You can often get away with 2mm above or below the correct length, though the closer you are the better.

 

[8mph]

Measure one of the good spokes from the bend to the point it meets the nipple, then add another 12mm for the threaded end that sits inside the nipple.

Those are DT Swiss spokes. They’re usually 12mm for the threaded end. You can often get away with 2mm above or below the correct length, though the closer you are the better.

Thanks for the advice, I'll do that.

 

[8mph]

Measure one of the good spokes from the bend to the point it meets the nipple, then add another 12mm for the threaded end that sits inside the nipple.

I make that 290mm which corresponds with the SJS cycles current Deore / 319 build using DT Champion spokes. Thanks for your help!

 

[presta]

I have A719, DT Competition, and Deore FH-M530, with 291mm on the left and 290mm on the right, so it looks as if the A719 is probably the same ERD as A319.

 

[8mph]

I have A719, DT Competition, and Deore FH-M530, with 291mm on the left and 290mm on the right, so it looks as if the A719 is probably the same ERD as A319.

That's really good to know, thank you. I think this rebuild will have to go on hold and treated as proper project, looking closer I'll probably need to replace 16 spokes, 291mm looks ideal, about a third the way up the brake surface.

 

[Ming the Merciless]

Ah classic over shifting the chain into the spokes damage I see.

 

[Moodyman]

That's really good to know, thank you. I think this rebuild will have to go on hold and treated as proper project, looking closer I'll probably need to replace 16 spokes, 291mm looks ideal, about a third the way up the brake surface.

If you’re not financially constrained, it might be better to replace all spokes on the drive side. It’ll make it easier to even tension and to centre the rim. It’ll also take away any nagging doubt about a weak link (sic) in your wheel.

 

[8mph]

If you’re not financially constrained, it might be better to replace all spokes on the drive side. It’ll make it easier to even tension and to centre the rim. It’ll also take away any nagging doubt about a weak link (sic) in your wheel.

With the combined cost of bearings, spokes and oil seal it would have to be a labour of love, however, I'm not discounting it as I'd like the experience. I'm working on two other bikes at the moment and have a tour approaching, so this will have to go on the back burner for now.

 

[Ajax Bay]

That's really good to know, thank you. I think this rebuild will have to go on hold and treated as proper project, looking closer I'll probably need to replace 16 spokes, 291mm looks ideal, about a third the way up the brake surface.

Measuring one of these spokes was recommended. Remove one and measure it!! You're buying 8 (see below): no need to use an 'estimate'.
I suggest that you replace the 8 trailing spokes only. Those are the ones that get nibbled by an RD cage allowed to overshift.
No need to replace the 8 others that side. Replace them one at a time and just bring the pluck tone back up to its similarly oriented neighbours. This will mean the final trueing is minimised.

If you’re not financially constrained, it might be better to replace all spokes on the drive side. It’ll make it easier to even tension and to centre the rim. It’ll also take away any nagging doubt about a weak link (sic) in your wheel.

As for @Moodyman 's 'nagging doubt' removal: none of these spokes have failed so why would there be any 'nagging doubt'? If the OP had had spokes failing from fatigue that would be different. A rider can surely have no greater confidence than in a wheel they have laced and trued.

 

[8mph]

Measuring one of these spokes was recommended. Remove one and measure it!! You're buying 8 (see below): no need to use an 'estimate'.
I suggest that you replace the 8 trailing spokes only. Those are the ones that get nibbled by an RD cage allowed to overshift.
No need to replace the 8 others that side. Replace them one at a time and just bring the pluck tone back up to its similarly oriented neighbours.

8 it is and they're 290mm. As far as I can tell not butted.

 

[8mph]

The spokes on either side don't appear to be butted, DT Champion Plain Guage would correspond with the SJS Cycles build so I've pulled the trigger and bought a pack of ten. That's 8 to fix the wheel up and two to take on tour if I'm satisfied with the result. My current rear wheel is standard issue on many of the older Trek bikes, factory built with Matrix 550 rim, 7 speed screw on freewheel and low end hub.

 

[8mph]

@Ajax Bay the whole procedure went smoothly, thanks for your advice