Spoke Advice

[JPBoothy]

Hi All, during my daily fresh air ride today I heard a loud ping/crack which turned out to be the end of a spoke snapping off from the rear wheel of my CX bike. I removed rest of the spoke when I got home, and as the wheel doesn't appear to be out of true (and most bike shops are currently closed) I was going to replace it myself. However, before I go ordering a replacement spoke/nipple is there anything obvious that I may be over looking on what appears to be a simple enough job (famous last words!). The remaining spoke measures around 285mm from the threaded end to the point where it has snapped on the curve of the 'J' that fits into the hub. However, I am assuming that I may need to add a mm or so to compensate for the snapped part and the slight bend where the spoke has crossed over the next when entering the Hub. The lengths available seem to go up in 2mm increments with the nearest being either 286mm/288mm or 290mm. The nipples all appear to be around 12mm but, could I not just re-use the old one?
What do you think? Your knowledge and experience would be most welcome as always.

 

[roley poley]

if its on the drive side you may well need a freewheel extractor to get in there ?

 

[JPBoothy]

Fortunately it isn't so access to the hub is okay but good point

 

[biggs682]

Fortunately it isn't so access to the hub is okay but good point

Google Alex Warwick Cycles and give him the details is hub make along with rim details sure he should be able to help .

Just checked my selection of spokes but all are around 295 - 300 mm

 

[Yellow Saddle]

Hi All, during my daily fresh air ride today I heard a loud ping/crack which turned out to be the end of a spoke snapping off from the rear wheel of my CX bike. I removed rest of the spoke when I got home, and as the wheel doesn't appear to be out of true (and most bike shops are currently closed) I was going to replace it myself. However, before I go ordering a replacement spoke/nipple is there anything obvious that I may be over looking on what appears to be a simple enough job (famous last words!). The remaining spoke measures around 285mm from the threaded end to the point where it has snapped on the curve of the 'J' that fits into the hub. However, I am assuming that I may need to add a mm or so to compensate for the snapped part and the slight bend where the spoke has crossed over the next when entering the Hub. The lengths available seem to go up in 2mm increments with the nearest being either 286mm/288mm or 290mm. The nipples all appear to be around 12mm but, could I not just re-use the old one?
What do you think? Your knowledge and experience would be most welcome as always.

No need to add length. JUst order a 285mm if that's the length from the end of the spoke to where the J bend starts.
Spokes stretch by about 2mm when fully tensioned.
If the old nipple is brass, you can re-use it. Oil the spoke threads when replacing the spoke.
It is an easy job.
If you can't get a spoke, let me know.

 

[JPBoothy]

No need to add length. JUst order a 285mm if that's the length from the end of the spoke to where the J bend starts.
Spokes stretch by about 2mm when fully tensioned.
If the old nipple is brass, you can re-use it. Oil the spoke threads when replacing the spoke.
It is an easy job.
If you can't get a spoke, let me know.

Thanks for the advice.. I will order a few spokes as spares and the nipples come with them in a lot of cases. Would you recommend any particular brand to buy/stay clear of? DT Swiss are the only brand I recognise to be honest.

 

[Ajax Bay]

Whilst some bike shops may be closed many have stayed open and for something as simple as a spoke, it would likely be the easiest and most assured way to procure a spoke - phone ahead. Ask for a 285mm and accept a 286. If buying online, DT Swiss and Sapim are the reputable makes and double butted with brass nipples are to be preferred.

 

[Yellow Saddle]

Thanks for the advice.. I will order a few spokes as spares and the nipples come with them in a lot of cases. Would you recommend any particular brand to buy/stay clear of? DT Swiss are the only brand I recognise to be honest.

DT Swiss, Alpine, Wheelsmith and SAPIM are all great spokes. Double butted is more durable, i.e. lasts longer.

 

[Velochris]

Depending on the lacing pattern (ie if the existing spokes cross paths), you may find it difficult to insert the spoke and then pull it upwards over and under the other spokes, to match the existing pattern.

Spokes can be bend a fair bit when being inserted, to help manipulating them into place. Just make sure you don't kink them (ie a permanent bend).

If you thread the spoke from outside the hub, look at the spoke nearest to it, which also threads from the outside. Match that pattern of going under and over spokes. Vice versa if you have to thread from inside.

 

[Ajax Bay]

Depending on the lacing pattern (ie if the existing spokes cross paths), you may find it difficult to insert the spoke and then pull it upwards over and under the other spokes, to match the existing pattern.

To the OP: "you may find it difficult", but I reckon since you have a Genesis SS and two Cannondale CAADXs (from your post on the 'brakes' thread), and have removed the broken spoke yourself, that you have beating of a terribly complex spoke crossing pattern when you pop the new spoke in. Screw on the nipple till the thread's disappeared and then have a pluck.

 

[JPBoothy]

Thanks all, your help and knowledge is always appreciated.. I have ordered my spoke/nipple and will give it a go.. I also ordered a free wheel sprocket tool to change that back up a tooth size on the SS as my knees are complaining a bit now that I'm riding that in place of my CX.

 

[JPBoothy]

Depending on the lacing pattern (ie if the existing spokes cross paths), you may find it difficult to insert the spoke and then pull it upwards over and under the other spokes, to match the existing pattern.

Spokes can be bend a fair bit when being inserted, to help manipulating them into place. Just make sure you don't kink them (ie a permanent bend).

If you thread the spoke from outside the hub, look at the spoke nearest to it, which also threads from the outside. Match that pattern of going under and over spokes. Vice versa if you have to thread from inside.

Hi All, It has taken a week for my spoke to arrive, but after much pondering and a few under the breath mutterings of "How the F### do you get the new spoke in without kinking it" the job is now done. I will be out on it in the morning but, am I likely to need to adjust the tension again afterwards? Thanks for the advice as always

 

[Ajax Bay]

Amazing that a spoke with 1000N tension goes all straight, like. Provided the spoke is not twisted (give it a good squeeze and push/pull) and the rim is now true, you should not need to adjust it.
Did you get a spare, in the end?

 

[JPBoothy]

Yes, I bought 2 spokes/nipples.