Some advice when choosing your cycling shoes (apparently).

[Ajax Bay]

HiTec Silver Shadow IIs are pretty useless trainers for running in (poor support) and for cycling they have a fairly soft (ie not stiff) sole. Discarding discussion on cleats, going for a trainer with a stiffer sole would be better and it'd be best with some grip (ie choose a trainer with more rather than less grip on the outsole) as this will improve the shoe/pedal interface (chance of slipping reduced). @NorthernDave suggests 'outdoor/walking shoes from the Karrimor range, and I'd agree. These shoes are sold by Sports Direct and the stores normally have a good range and their footwear (various models) seem to be on constant 50% off (off what one might ask) so the prices are competitive.

 

[swansonj]

Below are some tips that I found for anyone buying their first pair of cycling shoes. Personally I`ve always worn soft trainers on the bike. My trainers are ready for revewal, so I`m looking to see what cycling shoes are available if you guys can convince (educate me) of the advantages over trainers please.

My initial thoughts are "what if any extra benefit can cycling shoes provide for me"? A pair of "Hi tech silver shadow" trainers will cost me around £25 or less, and are very comfortable on the bike and a pair only weigh 755g.
Please advise me, including maybe some basic brands to try to see if I prefer shoes to trainers.

OK- Here are shoe buying tips that I came across:
A road shoe is most commonly found with a three hole cleat pattern on the sole. This set-up is suitable for Look style and Shimano SPD SL pedal systems. The cleat is exposed on a flat sole platform and is not suited for walking.

A high quality shoe will have a stiff sole enabling good power transfer. Some road shoes are built around a carbon fibre sole, that is not only stiff but also very light. The fastening system for the shoe is often an adjustable Velcro, strap and ratchet, dial or combination of each. This allows for a varied and comfortable fit.

The upper material for the shoes varies from brand to brand and even model. A leather upper would be more substantial but heavier whereas an artificial, vented fabric offers a lighter option but with less efficiency in keeping out the elements.

Fit is subjective but ideally the shoe should be snug without restricting movement.

When purchasing a road shoe there are few things to consider:

1. Your current pedals (whether three or two hole cleats SPD or Look/SPD SL style).
2. Intended use. A shoe for commuting would ideally be more robust and better suited to wetter weather whereas a racing shoe would be light and stiff with an easily adjustable fastening system.
3. Parts availability. A Velcro strap system is unlikely to require replacing but a ratchet and buckle or dial system may wear and need replacing.
4. Fit. A good fitting road shoe should feel snug but not restrictive. In the first instance always order your regular shoe size unless you have previous experience of a particular brand/model sizing irregularities.

Blimey, are Silver Shadows still made? 27 years ago I cycled LEJoG in Silver Shadows.

 

[Slick]

I like the recessed cleats. I never had any intention of ever clipping into a bike, especially as I've heard a few stories from friends about falling over before unclipping. When I first bought my bike, I knew the pedals were poor, and as my confidence grew and I was looking for more challenges, my foot would slip off more and more, especially in the wet. As others have said, it depends a lot on what type of cycling you do.


http://www.cyclingweekly.co.uk/news/product-news/7-of-the-best-recessed-cleat-shoes-4987

 

[bondirob]

I ride both I find clipping in preferable for longer rides can't say I'm faster clipped in but it seems that way because it's a lighter bike.
BTW I use mountain bike shoes, really comfy, cleats last for ages, you can walk normally and you are just as fast as in road shoes.

 

[Deleted member 1258]

I use mountain bike shoes without cleats, I just leave the cover over the cleat holes on, and use clips and straps, when I was commuting I'd straighten the toe clips then rebend them to fit my big work boots so I could commute in my work boots and still have some foot retention. I recon the Op would be a bit more comfortable with a shoe with a sole that was a bit stiffer than a trainer, whenever I've hopped on my bike in trainers they felt to squishy as I pedalled.

 

[jonny jeez]

Yes, Wiggle have them:
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-spd-sl-pedal-cleat-covers/

Thanks, that's brill.

Edit...tried to order but out of stock.

I'll keep looking though thanks.

 

[slowmotion]

If you're a serious cyclist, you need to piss away at least a couple of hundred quid on a professional shoe fit. Don't let people who have not already try and talk you out of it.

 

[night cycler]

ok I like the look of Karrimore Hot Rock low men`s walking shoes, and have noted the Karrimore Mount low walking shoe for my shortlist. Both seem to have a reasonably flat sole compared to contours on some of the others. The price is ok, and if they don`t work for me on the bike I can still use them the for walking around.

 

[russellchapman]

I have Scott Pro MTB cycling shoes and basic Shimano SPD clip-in pedals on my road bike. The advantage, walking is a lot easier in MTB shoes, you don't slide around as you would in Road cycling shoes. The Scotts are very comfy too

 

[mjr]

If you're a serious cyclist, you need to piss away at least a couple of hundred quid on a professional shoe fit. Don't let people who have not already try and talk you out of it.

Remember: misery loves company!