Soldering dynamo wiring to LED lights?

[Heltor Chasca]

You can just crimp them on but it's always a good idea to solder them as well.

I like this idea. The rear lamp connection (Male) on a Schmidt is embedded inside the lamp housing. (See the hole behind the wire? It’s in there) How would one fare when it comes to disconnecting the wires for maintenance/repair etc.? Thank you.

 

[confusedcyclist]

I have an abundance of these in my crimp set . PM me an address and I will send some .. if it was anything other than a stupidly low voltage I would suggest buying a crimp tool but for this a good squeeze with a pair of pliers or cutters between the handles (under the pivot ) is acceptable ( do not use the cutting blade bit )

That's very generous of you, before I saw this I measured up and ordered 10pcs for £1.50 delivered on ebay, so I'm good!

 

[keithmac]

If you're struggling for space you can use none insulated female spade connectors with shrinkwrap over the top.

I prefer the plastic covered ones where possible but these ideally need a proper crimping tool.

 

[andrew_s]

I like this idea. The rear lamp connection (Male) on a Schmidt is embedded inside the lamp housing. (See the hole behind the wire? It’s in there) How would one fare when it comes to disconnecting the wires for maintenance/repair etc.? Thank you.

You want something like this:
https://www.spacycles.co.uk/m2b0s198p2359/SCHMIDT-Standard-Loom

i.e twin core cable with a 2.8 mm female spade connector and a ring terminal at the front light end, and two 2.8 mm female spades at the rear light end.
At the rear light end, you can use the cable guillotine connection if there is one, but the front connection down the hole in the Edelux has to be a 2.8 mm female spade with heat shrink.

Personally, I pay the £6.40, as the SON loom is better made than anything I'd do myself, and therefore more reliable.
The connectors are best crimped with the proper tool for the specific connector, and they are fairly expensive. A generic multi-size crimper will be second rate, and pliers third rate.

When unplugging, just pull. Take hold of the spade connector itself and don't pull the wire. The connector hole in the Edelux isn't deep enough to present a problem.

 

[confusedcyclist]

The spades didn't turn up yet, but I was able to get it working yesterday by shearing off a longer section of the wire insulation, about an inch. Then I dismantled the LED so the circuit board and pins could be removed from the housing. I simply wrapped the lengths of copper around the pins tightly. Having the board out of the housing made it much easier to solder the copper wiring in place on a clean section of the pins. I then reassembled the housing with a hot glue gun, as it was not meant to be prized apart, must have been glued together at the factory. Sorted and good as new now.

Shame I hadn't thought of that before spending money on the spades!

 

[Heltor Chasca]

You want something like this:
https://www.spacycles.co.uk/m2b0s198p2359/SCHMIDT-Standard-Loom

i.e twin core cable with a 2.8 mm female spade connector and a ring terminal at the front light end, and two 2.8 mm female spades at the rear light end.
At the rear light end, you can use the cable guillotine connection if there is one, but the front connection down the hole in the Edelux has to be a 2.8 mm female spade with heat shrink.

Personally, I pay the £6.40, as the SON loom is better made than anything I'd do myself, and therefore more reliable.
The connectors are best crimped with the proper tool for the specific connector, and they are fairly expensive. A generic multi-size crimper will be second rate, and pliers third rate.

When unplugging, just pull. Take hold of the spade connector itself and don't pull the wire. The connector hole in the Edelux isn't deep enough to present a problem.

Thank you. Useful. Sadly my rear light is a Son which has an intergrated wire unlike the B&M ones which you can use this £6.40 cable. Unless anyone knows how you can dismantle a Son without damaging the integrity of it.