Snapped chain troubleshooting

[shadow master]

Thanks everyone.

Apologies for incorrect use of the term 'shearing' I do recall a physics lesson from years ago now. I can take a picture when I get home but it's not dissimilar from the above i.e. it is the sideplate that has snapped (on both sides i.e I have 4 jagged pieces), but I don't think it was near the pin, rather in the middle of the figure 8 part.

It has been shifting pretty well, it's Sora and I seem to have to adjust cable tension quite regularly - very occasionally I think it's in gear and it will slip up or down on the cassette when I apply more pressure so perhaps this is what happened here.

I wasn't planning on changing the cassette as well this time but will look at this if it slips with the new chain. I will def not be cycling up any hills until everything is smooth with the bike on the stand.

Thanks everyone.

Apologies for incorrect use of the term 'shearing' I do recall a physics lesson from years ago now. I can take a picture when I get home but it's not dissimilar from the above i.e. it is the sideplate that has snapped (on both sides i.e I have 4 jagged pieces), but I don't think it was near the pin, rather in the middle of the figure 8 part.

It has been shifting pretty well, it's Sora and I seem to have to adjust cable tension quite regularly - very occasionally I think it's in gear and it will slip up or down on the cassette when I apply more pressure so perhaps this is what happened here.

I wasn't planning on changing the cassette as well this time but will look at this if it slips with the new chain. I will def not be cycling up any hills until everything is smooth with the bike on the stand.

If the new chain doesn't slip in the bottom sprocket under moderate/heavy load,I will be surprised!

 

[The Brewer]

No big deal, you should of dropped the gears when approaching the stop and applied too much force by standing up when moving off. It happens.

 

[ColinJ]

No big deal, you should of dropped the gears when approaching the stop and applied too much force by standing up when moving off. It happens.

EXAMPLE!

 

[MattDB]

If the new chain doesn't slip in the bottom sprocket under moderate/heavy load,I will be surprised!

I thought there was a rule of thumb where, replaced sufficiently early, one cassette would last 2-3 chains and chainrings would last 2-3 cassettes?

 

[shadow master]

I thought there was a rule of thumb where, replaced sufficiently early, one cassette would last 2-3 chains and chainrings would last 2-3 cassettes?

Not I'm my experience...The chain and cassette become a match very quickly within 500 miles(5\6\7 speed freewheels not affected)and subsequently slip under pressure in 8th or 9th.you could change your chain before that point,but chains are more expensive than cassettes,so you might as well change both.that way the cassette and chain are always at the same mileage,not a constant mismatch of semi worn parts.

 

[ColinJ]

chains are more expensive than cassettes

Not for me - I pay about £40 for the Campagnolo cassettes for my Basso, but only £10-15 for the SRAM chains!

 

[shadow master]

Not for me - I pay about £40 for the Campagnolo cassettes for my Basso, but only £10-15 for the SRAM chains!

Sorry I was referring to op sora kit, cassettes £9.99 Chains about the same....at these prices amazes me people don't change in matching pairs!

 

[ColinJ]

Sorry I was referring to op sora kit, cassettes £9.99 Chains about the same....at these prices amazes me people don't change in matching pairs!

Oh, well for that price, I would agree with you!

With my pricier Campagnolo parts, it is definitely worth swapping chains more frequently to extend the life of cassettes and chainrings.

 

[shadow master]

Oh, well for that price, I would agree with you!

With my pricier Campagnolo parts, it is definitely worth swapping chains more frequently to extend the life of cassettes and chainrings.

And yes I think that's a reality on campagnolo due to its more agricultural construction.

 

[MattDB]

Thanks I hadn't thought about changing the cassette as well - chain on it's way now and hoping to get back in saddle asap but will look into this.

For into here is the break.

On another note I'd been using dry lube for a few weeks - during this time the chain developed surface pretty quickly. Frustratingly although when I'm at work it is under 'cover', if the rain is in a particular direction the bike will get damp. I'm going to go back to my normal oil now.

 

[bianchi1]

Thanks I hadn't thought about changing the cassette as well - chain on it's way now and hoping to get back in saddle asap but will look into this.

For into here is the break.

On another note I'd been using dry lube for a few weeks - during this time the chain developed surface pretty quickly. Frustratingly although when I'm at work it is under 'cover', if the rain is in a particular direction the bike will get damp. I'm going to go back to my normal oil now.

Is that the chain you say has done only 700 miles!

 

[ColinJ]

Is that the chain you say has done only 700 miles!

I think at least one zero has gone walkabout!

 

[bianchi1]

I think at least one zero has gone walkabout!

"cleaned and lubricated religiously every week"......what with, brine?

 

[arch684]

Have you been cycling through rivers?

 

[shadow master]

Dry lubes are not suitable for UK salted road's,not much actual lube in them,most of the lube ends up settled in the bottom of the bottle anyway....the liquid is just solvent!....yet another example of what Actually works in the REAL WORLD!