Snapped Bolt in Integrated KSA-18 Kickstand Hole - How to Remove
- Thread starter wiggydiggy
- Start date
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fritz katzenjammer
Der Ubergrosserbudgie
Working in a bike shop I‘ve learned to hate this type of stand mount. They tend to work loose so check them regularly. The bolts installed have thread locker on them, which doesn’t seem to work but makes broken bolts a pig to get out.
I’ve had success with three methods of removal:
- slot the stub of the bolt with a dremel and use a flat head screwdriver to remove it. This only works if the stub sticks up and you have to be careful to not nick the frame.
- chase the bolt around using a very sharp punch and a small hammer. By tapping the bolt near the edge with the punch at a 45 degree angle it’s often possible to get it to turn a tiny bit. Its slow but often works.
- check the inside of the stay. Bolts that are a bit too long are often installed at the factory. These can protrude slightly on the back of the stay, often far enough that you can get a grip on them with a pair of good vice grips to spin the bugger out.
aluminium expands at a greater rate than steel so a bit of heat from an electric heat gun can help loosen things off when fighting with these things. Don’t be tempted to turn a propane torch to it, that just gets out of hand too quickly. Unbolting and swinging the hydraulic calliper out of the way is important if heat is to be tried.
important: patience!
I’ve had success with three methods of removal:
- slot the stub of the bolt with a dremel and use a flat head screwdriver to remove it. This only works if the stub sticks up and you have to be careful to not nick the frame.
- chase the bolt around using a very sharp punch and a small hammer. By tapping the bolt near the edge with the punch at a 45 degree angle it’s often possible to get it to turn a tiny bit. Its slow but often works.
- check the inside of the stay. Bolts that are a bit too long are often installed at the factory. These can protrude slightly on the back of the stay, often far enough that you can get a grip on them with a pair of good vice grips to spin the bugger out.
aluminium expands at a greater rate than steel so a bit of heat from an electric heat gun can help loosen things off when fighting with these things. Don’t be tempted to turn a propane torch to it, that just gets out of hand too quickly. Unbolting and swinging the hydraulic calliper out of the way is important if heat is to be tried.
important: patience!
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wiggydiggy
Guru
Its a lovely idea for someone that (a) has a welding gun and (b) can be trusted not burn my bike in two. I'll save this one for the experts!
I'll have to have a look round the back of the stay, I need to do some other fettling on it anyway so before I go down to the LBS I'll take a look. I recently got a small piece of broken key out of a window lock by a similar method so maybe this could work.
If there is clearance fitting an extra long bolt that passes through the frame (if already drilled) then fit ny-lock nut on other side prevents bolts working loose. A good dose of copper grease on the threads stops corrosion. Once a year spin the bolts out, clean and regrease with copper.
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wiggydiggy
Guru
Bit of an update there's nothing to get a grip on round the back, it'll have to be drilled out by the LBS.
Marchrider
Active Member
very difficult unless you can get it ito a jig on a milling machine.
what is it M5 ? steel bolt in aluminium, it has probably corroded itself in place. and any attempt to drill it, and the drill will wander into the softer metal
If I was to give it a go, (it needs soaked in diesel for a week) then you have to be very accurate with the centre punch, then a centre point drill just to take some material away from where it has sheared. Then try a 3mm left hand drill (a sharp (new) 3mm left hand drill) with plenty cutting fluid, (do not let the drill wander) you never know your luck it may come out during the drilling . if not, your in trouble,, heat it up and stud extractor,
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wiggydiggy
Guru
It's not corroded but I've got reservations about even asking the LBS to do it, I use the bike regularly and don't have the time to strip it for diesel baths for a week!
I think I'm going to order a couple of stay mounted stands, see which fits best and use that. I'm much more aware now most stands are not suitable to hold the bike and luggage so it's not going to be used under heavy load again.
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Ajax Bay
Guru
- Location
- East Devon
The likely corrosion is between the threads. How would you know/think "it is not corroded"? You're in denial.
A stand clamped to the chainstay is the way to go (and I can't see that lack of space will be an issue). One so positioned supports your bike closer to its CoG.
Marchrider
Active Member
Its known as Galvanic corrosion, different metals have different electric potentials and if linked with an electrolyte (and salty water off our winter roads) is an excellent electrolyte, basically the two metals start to act like a battery with the Aluminium becoming the anode and disintegrating.
In the case of a steel bolt in an aluminium stock, the degrading aluminium expands and locks the two parts together
try it in a glass of salty water, a piece of clean steel and a piece of aluminium, put a volt meter across the two metals, you should get about 1 volt
In the case of a steel bolt in an aluminium stock, the degrading aluminium expands and locks the two parts together
try it in a glass of salty water, a piece of clean steel and a piece of aluminium, put a volt meter across the two metals, you should get about 1 volt
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wiggydiggy
Guru
A good science experiment! Unfortunately unless Santa brings me 'My first science kit' its not something I can try.
fossyant
Ride It Like You Stole It!
- Location
- South Manchester
Do you need a kick stand ?
Personally, I'd drill a small pilot hold (like 1-2mm) then go slightly larger, then get out the 'easy out' bits. If you drill a hole only just large enough for the bit to get purchase, it's not going to snap inside - you've gone too far if you do that.
Personally, I'd drill a small pilot hold (like 1-2mm) then go slightly larger, then get out the 'easy out' bits. If you drill a hole only just large enough for the bit to get purchase, it's not going to snap inside - you've gone too far if you do that.
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wiggydiggy
Guru
I'm not drilling now, I had a good look yesterday and I'm not 100% confident I won't make a mess of it. Without stripping the frame (which isn't practical for me) I'd have to go in from the front, and would need reverse drill bits which I don't have.
Kickstand I've grown used to as it just makes a few things easier for me, but it's not going to be used under loaded bike conditions again. For the future I know to check the weigh limit of any stand, and upgrade it if needed.
Moodyman
Legendary Member
I had this same problem on a rack bolt.
As above, I know what to do in principle, but have never done it so wasn’t going to use the bike as a guinea pig.
Couple of bike shops (steel frame builders) refused to touch it as it was aluminium.
I approached Chris Marshall (well know frame builder) in Keighley. He sorted it for £20. Drilled out M5 bolt and re-tapped it with an M6 bolt.
Can provide you his details if you PM me.
As above, I know what to do in principle, but have never done it so wasn’t going to use the bike as a guinea pig.
Couple of bike shops (steel frame builders) refused to touch it as it was aluminium.
I approached Chris Marshall (well know frame builder) in Keighley. He sorted it for £20. Drilled out M5 bolt and re-tapped it with an M6 bolt.
Can provide you his details if you PM me.
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wiggydiggy
Guru
Cheers. Is this him? https://www.keighley.co.uk/info/2563/
It'll be February before I can give him the bike for any length of time though I'll drop him a line before then to see what (if anything) can be done.
Moodyman
Legendary Member
Yes, correct landline number. Will send you his mobile by PM so you can WhatsApp him the pics.
