I've been quite happily using an SKS rennkompressor track pump for over 30 years. The only slight drawback I've experienced is that the washers in the push-on brass Presta head wear down over time when used on the threaded valve stems that I like. I've been advised that the EVA head can be fitted to the hose and that the locking collar might be softer on its washers than the push-on head, so I've ordered one. I wonder if any other forum members have had experience with this head and can comment on the likely washer life?
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Yellow Saddle
Guru
- Location
- Loch side.
Yes, the washer will last longer. I've had the same problem and replaced my hose with a similar (not SKS) hose and valve attachment and have not had to worry about washers again. This is going back about 5 years now.
You can also save the washer by only buying tubes with smooth, non-threaded valve stems and/or always wet the valve and pump head with soapy water before forcing it on. I kept a little bottle of soapy water next to the hoses in our workshop that were not fitted with open/close heads.
You can also save the washer by only buying tubes with smooth, non-threaded valve stems and/or always wet the valve and pump head with soapy water before forcing it on. I kept a little bottle of soapy water next to the hoses in our workshop that were not fitted with open/close heads.
Thanks for the information. I'll see how I get on with this new head when it arrives. I did think about the soapy water lubrication myself but thought that it might make the head more likely to blow off under pressure, so I'll give it a try. I use the threaded valves, as they are fitted to my favourite inner tubes, of which I have a stock of about five at the moment.
The EVA head arrived and it's just about alright I suppose. I don't really like it, as when it's uncoupled from the valve, quite a bit of air escapes and I don't know what pressure is left in my skinny tyres. I think the dodge with applying soapy water does work to some extent,so I'll carry on using the brass push-on head which shuts the valve very quickly when I pull it off. I like the satisfying airgun noise and the brass finish with jubilee clip which is more in keeping with the style of the old pump than some plastic gizmo.
rogerzilla
Legendary Member
I just got a new one of these with EVA head. Utterly useless. Other reviews say the same - it doesn't work, get the multivalve or brass head.
Ajax Bay
Guru
- Location
- East Devon
I realise this thread is a 'blast from the past' but I'd reassure you you need not worry about the loss of pressure in your skinny tyres as a result of removing the head. The hiss of air is the compressed air from the pump's body coming 'up' the hose, not from inside the tyre. The Presta valve stops that air escaping unlike a Shraeder valve where the pump head deliberately pushes down on the central pin.
rogerzilla
Legendary Member
A multivalve head arrived today. Unlike the EVA head, it works. EVA head binned - I can't sell it as any buyer would send it straight back!
mjr
Comfy armchair to one person & a plank to the next
- Location
- mostly Norfolk, sometimes Somerset
I fitted an SKS Multivalve head to my old track pump. It works and push-down-to-lock is the natural and right way for a lever to work!
Ajax Bay
Guru
- Location
- East Devon
One of these, I presume:
https://www.halfords.com/cycling/bi...-replacement-head-for-floorpumps-399329.html?
rogerzilla
Legendary Member
Yes, that's the one.
randynewmanscat
Veteran
- Location
- Vienne, Poitou-Chrentes
I was going to put my post in a fresh thread but this is relevant enough.
I have the same SKS pump head on an Airmenius floor pump, it has not been used since last summer. It was blowing air from the schrader valve port while trying to inflate a presta valve tube. I learned something, the head uses a small rubber ball to close the unused port, least path of resistance.
Before I stripped it I wanted to know if there was a fine spring that was going to fly across the kitchen never to be seen again. SKS are good on supporting parts but assembly drawings not so good.
The worse by the day YouTube or rather user tublos1 delivered the goods. I found the culprit for the fault, I used the pump to inflate a tyre on my mower that had been treated with mousse to repair a puncture. The tiniest trace of the stuff had got into the valve port and stuck the rubber ball. Debris or wet crud could cause the same fault. Cleaned the innards and applied a minuscule trace of silicone grease to the seals and refitted, all good.
So If you have not seen inside one and think one day you might need to here is the helpful tublos1 video.
Edited to inlude tip: At 20 seconds in he levers the part that holds the two valve block segments together using a watch makers driver. You don't need to do that.
Remove the valve stem seals and gently push using a dowel or pencil stub the two valve segments (orange one, grey one) through the body. The part that the lock lever bears on will emerge from the other end.
View: https://youtu.be/MYNiaI7bmhg
I have the same SKS pump head on an Airmenius floor pump, it has not been used since last summer. It was blowing air from the schrader valve port while trying to inflate a presta valve tube. I learned something, the head uses a small rubber ball to close the unused port, least path of resistance.
Before I stripped it I wanted to know if there was a fine spring that was going to fly across the kitchen never to be seen again. SKS are good on supporting parts but assembly drawings not so good.
The worse by the day YouTube or rather user tublos1 delivered the goods. I found the culprit for the fault, I used the pump to inflate a tyre on my mower that had been treated with mousse to repair a puncture. The tiniest trace of the stuff had got into the valve port and stuck the rubber ball. Debris or wet crud could cause the same fault. Cleaned the innards and applied a minuscule trace of silicone grease to the seals and refitted, all good.
So If you have not seen inside one and think one day you might need to here is the helpful tublos1 video.
Edited to inlude tip: At 20 seconds in he levers the part that holds the two valve block segments together using a watch makers driver. You don't need to do that.
Remove the valve stem seals and gently push using a dowel or pencil stub the two valve segments (orange one, grey one) through the body. The part that the lock lever bears on will emerge from the other end.
View: https://youtu.be/MYNiaI7bmhg
Last edited:
rogerzilla
Legendary Member
Mine vented air freely from the unused port when new, so it shouldn't have been contaminated by dirt or sealant. Looking at the reviews, a huge number just don't work on first use.
randynewmanscat
Veteran
- Location
- Vienne, Poitou-Chrentes
Maybe long storage from new causes that. Either way its nice to know you don't have to put your hand in your pocket to make the problem go away.
