Sidewall "slash" cuts on rear tyre...
- Thread starter Mazz
- Start date
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Ajax Bay
Guru
- Location
- East Devon
No, you can just screw it on. Putting force through the chain will tighten it on. One of the reasons (besides decades) the other one was stuck fast. They are invariably b*****rs to get off.
Grease, before (carefully) threading and screwing on.
Grease, before (carefully) threading and screwing on.
presta
Guru
The spacing between the sprockets is not standardised on 6 speed freewheels, so there's a possibility that it might not fit. Awkward if you don't have the means to get it off again and send it back.
How do I know? I once bought a 6 speed freewheel and found that it was too wide, and the derailleur didn't have enough travel to span the width of it, even with the H&L limit screws fully undone.
It might be worth going to a LBS and taking the old one with you for comparison.
Ajax Bay
Guru
- Location
- East Devon
True, but low risk that it will not fit.
Screw it on and, if concerned, gently test that the RD will shift to all sprockets on a stand with minimal force. This bike will be friction shift. The wheel's OLD will likely be 126mm: OP should/will have measured this before buying.
More here: https://sheldonbrown.com/freewheels.html
+1 for buying the freewheel from an LBS.
My '81 bike had a 5sp but its 126mm OLD dropouts allowed the LBS to just replace the 5sp with a 6sp block. I was grateful for the extra 3 teeth on the 28t sprocket (going from 14-25 to 14-28).
"In the 1970s,>> 6-speed freewheels:
- "Standard" spaced 6 speeds had sprocket-to-sprocket spacing the same as the existing 5 speeds, around 5.5 mm
Standard spaced 6-speeds required increasing the frame spacing to 126 mm, but still providing satisfactory service in most cases. - "Ultra Six ®" spaced 6 speeds used a closer spacing, around 5 mm. This permitted an Ultra Six ® freewheel to directly replace a standard 5-speed unit on a 120 mm hub."
I went to the LBS, but it was shut down
It only has an online presence now. I guess there just wasn't enough footfall/sales to justify keeping the street shop, which is sad but happens to a lot of businesses.
I went to the LBS, but it was shut down
It only has an online presence now. I guess there just wasn't enough footfall/sales to justify keeping the street shop, which is sad but happens to a lot of businesses.
Where are you based?
Even the local Halfords might knock the old block off.
Ajax Bay
Guru
- Location
- East Devon
Days ago I advised the OP to measure the distance between the dropouts: what is it (without wheel in there)?
Likely the wheel you've bought is a 130mm OLD which you are fitting into a 126mm OLD dropout. It's not as simple as just removing the 4mm spacer (with which @Paulus seems to acquiesce). The wheel will then fit in but the wheel will be off centre in the rear triangle (which will then mean the brakes can't be adjusted to operate effectively).
Trying to solve that by redishing will not be safe as the right hand side spokes will be at an extreme angle and the left hand spokes will be low tension and liable to actually lose tension every time they pass through 6 o'clock.
The solution is to increase the dropout distance by spreading the rear triangle apart by 2mm both sides.
https://sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html
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You're right. On the driveside of the wheel, the axle fits nicely in the drop-out, but on the non-driveside, the axle is clinging on to the drop-out for dear life 😆. Rideable, but the rear axle is on the piss.
I'll get a piece of 4x2 and prise it as per Sheldon 👍
gbb
Squire
- Location
- Peterborough
Ref the slashes on tyres, I had some Contis that did similar, it seemed to me the fabric weave was becoming delaminated, whether because of damage or poor manufacture I don't know but visually very similar. Emanating from the bead so perhaps as tyres are fitted, the rubber is getting damaged and exposing the weave...to later do this. Just a theory but ...
Time will tell.
