Sick of punctures - what sleek tyres can i get
- Thread starter Bhitucyclist
- Start date
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DCLane
Found in the Yorkshire hills ...
- Location
- Dewsbury, West Yorkshire
Alex321
Guru
- Location
- South Wales
No, you can always put tubes in tubeless tyres. It is sometimes still recommended to carry a tube just in case, as even tubeless can puncture if they get a real gash.
Anything small (up to about 3mm will self seal, most slightly larger holes can just be plugged from the outside with an appropriate plug.
You do need to check your wheels are suitable (though I think most are nowadays), and as well as the tyres themselves, you will need a setup kit with rim tape, sealant, and valves, costing usually around £20.
SkipdiverJohn
Deplorable Brexiteer
- Location
- London
Absolutely. All the supposedly toughened roadie type tyres still just look light and flimsy once you put them right next to a Marathon or M+ tyre. Proper touring or commuting tyres are in another league when it comes to the amount of rubber and puncture protection built into the carcass. They are also twice the weight of the roadie tyres, which is why some speed-obsessed commuters would rather tolerate getting delayed by punctures.
My overriding aim on any journey of more than a couple of miles each way is to get there and back without having to get my hands filthy and be delayed by a roadside puncture repair. They rarely occur at convenient locations, in nice weather, or when you don't mind getting grubby. Most times I have had flats it has been cold, wet, dark, or a combination of those plus the tyres have been covered with crud.
When I was a youngster, more frequent flats were the norm as tyres were not so puncture resistant then, and being young I wasn't so grumpy and unwilling to have my ride disrupted either. Now I really hate punctures and go to a lot of trouble to avoid them. I still carry the repair kit, but I really don't expect to have to use it. Marathon Greenguard is my default road/hard packed gravel tyre.
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Kestevan
Last of the Summer Winos
- Location
- Holmfirth.
Conversely, I'll put up with the occasional puncture (maybe 1 a year), in exchange for not riding a bike shod with Marathon tyres. They're heavy, sluggish and dead and and (for me ) remove a lot of the pleasure of riding. Oh, and in the admittedly unlikely event that they do puncture a complete and utter bar-steward to get on and off the rim.
My normal commute tyres are Specialized Roubaix. Not a gossamer thin summer race tyre, but not a heavyweight either.
Neither approach is wrong. You just need to know where on the durability/speed graph your preference lies.
Kingfisher101
Veteran
I've got Gatorskin Hard-shells and these are very good but they still wont withstand a lot of glass, like going past a rough pub where everyone smashes their glasses after closing time.
When these wear out I'm trying the 4 seasons.
When these wear out I'm trying the 4 seasons.
OP
OP
Bhitucyclist
Senior Member
Ha ha ha i am old and learnt english as a subject in school in india !
Spoked Wheels
Legendary Member
- Location
- Bournemouth
I've run the Michelin Pro for many years, since V2 but in my view they are summer tyres. Their side walls cut easily with Autumn / Winter debry. I took Paul's advised, on this thread, and bought some Bontrage AW3 and they feel more uo to the job for this time of the year. I fitted gatorskin for last Saturday ride and they felt too harsh ( no life ) like riding on wooden wheels I guess.... maybe too much air. I did a test ride on the Bontrager yesterday and they feel much more like the Michelin Pro 4. So far so good and tomorrow is the big test but I'm confident. BTW, Michelin Pro3 were more puncture resistant I think, not too impressed with the Pro4.
OP
OP
Bhitucyclist
Senior Member
Gatorskin has come up multiple times. But i am a bit skeptical - i am already a slowish rider and dont want to go further slow. Look forward to hearing how your bontrager fares. Some one suggested self sealing slime inner tubes. I am thinking of getting them first before changing the tyres . Any exp with self sealing inners ?
Alex321
Guru
- Location
- South Wales
I haven't, but I would have thought that if you are going down that route, you would surely be better off going tubeless.
T4tomo
Legendary Member
Your tyres are worn out, that is why they are giving you punctures now when they previously didn't.
slime in your inner tubes is worse than a faffy tubeless set up and will slow you down as much as heavy marathon plus tyres - all of these option are unsuitable for you.
just get some new tyres with decent protection, either the Pro again or suggestions
the Conti 4 season are tougher than the 5000's btw, ad roll and grip better than gatorskins.
ade towell
Über Member
- Location
- Nottingham
Will 2nd this, gatorskins are a bit skittish in the wet and don't ride as nicely imho, 4 seasons are grippy with decent puncture protection
Sittingduck
Legendary Member
- Location
- Somewhere flat
Imho (especially if you are a 'slowish' rider) there is no way in the world that you are going to notice any amount of speed difference on Gatorskins to any other similar width road tyres. If you're not keen on Gators, have a look at Durano Double Defence. If you really really want something a bit lighter something like Rubino Pro are not a bad choice and won't break the bank.
All Conti tyres have a tendency for cuts in my experience just try to dig out flint every now and then. 4 Seasons are nice but quite expensive and will cut up on the edges of the tread pattern, or maybe I have just always been unlucky with them.
nickyboy
Norven Mankey
- Location
- You want hills? We got hills
If you're averaging a puncture every 600km (as your OP suggests) then the issue isn't the tyres you're using, it's where you are riding. That's too frequent to just be one of those things
Unless you change where you're riding (and by that I don't necessarily mean change roads, it could be your position on the roads) then you either suck it up or change to something slow and bomb proof like M+
But bear in mind if you fit M+ your rolling resistance will be about 30W more than, say, Continental GP5000s. If you're at all concerned about the speed you're cycling, 30W is a massive amount (this would result in my average reducing from 14mph to 12mph)
Unless you change where you're riding (and by that I don't necessarily mean change roads, it could be your position on the roads) then you either suck it up or change to something slow and bomb proof like M+
But bear in mind if you fit M+ your rolling resistance will be about 30W more than, say, Continental GP5000s. If you're at all concerned about the speed you're cycling, 30W is a massive amount (this would result in my average reducing from 14mph to 12mph)
