should i get smaller cranks?

[Sharky]

You'll need a crank extractor to get your old crankset off and the tools to take your old BB out and if different from the new BB, tools for that as well.

Will be a good learning curve, but once you have bought the new cranks, it might be better to let the lbs supply the new BB and fit it. This will ensure it all fits and works and you won't have to buy tools this time.

Another option is to have your existing cranks re drilled for about £45 from somewhere like ...
http://highpath.co.uk/crank-shortening/

I've had two pairs of cranks shortened by the latter.

Good luck
Keith

 

[winjim]

So ive came to the point it really irritates me that im overlapping the wheel hard asf and i also want to experiment around it.

Now question is: What exactly will i need to complete whole build? i want to complete it part by part and put it together by myself too, what stuff will i need? I want my crankset to be 39/50 if possible or single 44t ring on front as i dont even use the smaller cog, it just seem pointless for me to have this tiny 34t cog on front.

So far i have this on the to buy list:
http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/brompton-chainring-and-guard-for-spider-crank-44t-prod31173/
http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/thorn-110-74-pcd-triple-solo-alloy-crankset-silver-prod1673/
probably this bb: http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/tifosi-b...on-shell-campagnolo-english-thread-prod30669/

what else will i need? parts and toolwise?

I don't think any of those parts fit together. Isn't that crank for a triple and the chainring for a Brompton? Toe overlap is a thing, you need to either get used to it or, as Adrian says, think about getting a different bike.

 

[Cyclist33]

ive now read somewhere that 145mm cranks are more beneficent in terms of power output, yeah i know it's to be excepted but smaller frame got bigger clearance? that is kinda out of logic for me

It would be the geometry of the head and seat angles that makes a smaller frame longer in the wheelbase. And the chainstay length, although that won't affect front end geometry. This is why geometry charts are so useful, you can basically work out the ride setup without trying the bike out.

 

[Cyclist33]

You'll need a crank extractor to get your old crankset off and the tools to take your old BB out and if different from the new BB, tools for that as well.

Will be a good learning curve, but once you have bought the new cranks, it might be better to let the lbs supply the new BB and fit it. This will ensure it all fits and works and you won't have to buy tools this time.

Another option is to have your existing cranks re drilled for about £45 from somewhere like ...
http://highpath.co.uk/crank-shortening/

I've had two pairs of cranks shortened by the latter.

Good luck
Keith

Really? If the bottom brackets stays the same, why? I just used hex keys, and an eating knife to get the plastic end nut out. Then the cranks just slid out.

 

[Sharky]

If the knife cuts it - great.

Cheers Keith

 

[antnee]

I've just done some calculations as Advised by a bike fitter and judging by my height, in seem distance plus the top of the bone that fits to your hip It works out that I should have 172mm length cranks But on measuring my existing Cranks find that they are 175mm anybody really think that 3mm Is going to be that critical? Many thanks for any thoughts on this.

 

[midlife]

Thoughts from 5 years ago.....

 

[Ming the Merciless]

I've just done some calculations as Advised by a bike fitter and judging by my height, in seem distance plus the top of the bone that fits to your hip It works out that I should have 172mm length cranks But on measuring my existing Cranks find that they are 175mm anybody really think that 3mm Is going to be that critical? Many thanks for any thoughts on this.

Nope

 

[antnee]

Hi Yukon boy. Thats what I thought as its not as if i'm doing the tour of france and only having a top average speed of 15mph well need a say more.