should i get smaller cranks?

[Torvi]

like the thread, got two road bikes, one is 52cm carrera tdf and the other one is 54cm planetx rt58 they both have same cranks lenght but the planetx bikes clearance between the crank and front wheel is half the time with carrera one making my toes block the wheel if i turn the wheel too hard.

cranks lenght is 200mm in both of bikes measuring from the top to the bottom (although on site it says 172.5mm)

 

[mrandmrspoves]

Crank length is measured from centre of crank axle to centre of pedal axle. Some toe overlap is to be expected on compact frames. A shorter crank may be beneficial - but probably only if you have short legs or like me, ride a recumbent.

 

[Torvi]

ive now read somewhere that 145mm cranks are more beneficent in terms of power output, yeah i know it's to be excepted but smaller frame got bigger clearance? that is kinda out of logic for me

 

[Citius]

ive now read somewhere that 145mm cranks are more beneficent in terms of power output

You might have dreamt it...

 

[fossyant]

No. Leave it be.

Crank length is usually printed on the rear of the crank.

Don't start messing. It will be 170 most likely.

Got 175 on my MTB and I can't tell the difference.

 

[Torvi]

You might have dreamt it...

https://www.powercranks.com/cld.html
http://cyclefit.co.uk/short-cranks-better-pedalling
and dozens of sites on google

 

[Sharky]

I went short a couple of years age. Now 3 bikes 150mm and one 145. You ride lower gears, but with faster cadence. Main difference is you can raise the saddle and open the hip angle, so becomes a more comfortable riding position. Also less strain on the knees and you stay seated for longer when climbing.

There are lots of studies on the WWW, worth viewing. But you need to consider all the arguments and make your own mind up.

Keith

 

[Citius]

https://www.powercranks.com/cld.html
http://cyclefit.co.uk/short-cranks-better-pedalling
and dozens of sites on google

So he didn't dream it. Must be true then. I'm off into the garage to saw my cranks in half..

 

[zacklaws]

Don't worry about toe overlap, I have it on all my bikes, you soon learn to avoid hitting the front wheel or mudguard naturally without thinking about it and it rarely happens then.

 

[PhilDawson8270]

I went short a couple of years age. Now 3 bikes 150mm and one 145. You ride lower gears, but with faster cadence. Main difference is you can raise the saddle and open the hip angle, so becomes a more comfortable riding position. Also less strain on the knees and you stay seated for longer when climbing.

There are lots of studies on the WWW, worth viewing. But you need to consider all the arguments and make your own mind up.

Keith

What if by changing to a shorter crank, that you can now no longer get the knee cap over the pedal axle with the crank horizontal?

 

[Dan B]

What if by changing to a shorter crank, that you can now no longer get the knee cap over the pedal axle with the crank horizontal?

Why do you want to? Maybe recumbentists have an answer

 

[PhilDawson8270]

Why do you want to? Maybe recumbentists have an answer

While setting my bike up, I had read that the correct saddle fore/aft position should put the back of the knee cap, over the centre of the pedal axle. So this is how I've always set them up.

I use a 175mm crank and would like to try a shorter one, but I would need more set back on the seat post to get that knee-foot position.

But I have seen many comments now that seem to go against that positioning, so I'm curious as to the reality of it.

 

[Sharky]

What if by changing to a shorter crank, that you can now no longer get the knee cap over the pedal axle with the crank horizontal?

Didn't think about that, but I had to raise the saddle by 2cm, going from 170 to 150 and the angle of the seat tube automatically moves the seat back a little. So didn't have a problem.

Cheers Keith

 

[Torvi]

So ive came to the point it really irritates me that im overlapping the wheel hard asf and i also want to experiment around it.

Now question is: What exactly will i need to complete whole build? i want to complete it part by part and put it together by myself too, what stuff will i need? I want my crankset to be 39/50 if possible or single 44t ring on front as i dont even use the smaller cog, it just seem pointless for me to have this tiny 34t cog on front.

So far i have this on the to buy list:
http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/brompton-chainring-and-guard-for-spider-crank-44t-prod31173/
http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/thorn-110-74-pcd-triple-solo-alloy-crankset-silver-prod1673/
probably this bb: http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/tifosi-b...on-shell-campagnolo-english-thread-prod30669/

what else will i need? parts and toolwise?

 

[Torvi]

It sounds as though what you want is a different bike, one with less toe overlap.

no, im happy with my bike as it is i just want to change things for even better