Shimano Hydraulic STis

[Sniper68]

I have fitted Shimano Di2 ST-R785+ BR-RS805 hydraulic brakes to my new build but am not impressed at all by them.OK they work perfectly but there is just far too much lever travel for my liking.I've bled them,no joy so I took them to a LBS who bled them and basically said that's as good as they get!?!
I've had hydros on MTBs for almost 2 decades,Hope,Formula,Avid but never Shimano.I've always had them set up so they start to bite after about 5-10mm of lever travel(I also have this set up on my road bike with rim brakes)but with these the brakes don't start to work until the lever has travelled roughly half way.If I wind the levers in slightly the levers are almost touching the bars before they work.
Surely this isn't how road STi hydraulics are

Am I missing something?

 

[si_c]

There's a screw on the inside of the levers which allows you to adjust the bite point. Google R785 stroke adjustment and you'll find what you're looking for.

Only works on Ultegra/Dura-Ace level kit - R7000 105 doesn't have it. 105 doesn't have the shortest stroke available but you get used to it eventually, on the drops I do tend to pull the levers in a bit to get the bite in the right place, but I've found it fine from the hoods.

 

[cougie uk]

Are your levers on the right part of the drops ? Too close to the bars maybe?
This doesn't sound right to me.

 

[si_c]

It's not got anything to do with lever position - for Shimano road hydraulics there is quite a long lever action - it doesn't get close to the bars but it's not as quick to engage as the MTB range or comparable rim brakes. It can take a little bit of time to get used to.

 

[Sniper68]

It's not got anything to do with lever position - for Shimano road hydraulics there is quite a long lever action - it doesn't get close to the bars but it's not as quick to engage as the MTB range or comparable rim brakes. It can take a little bit of time to get used to.

If that’s the case then I’m afraid Shimanos will have to go.
No point in getting used to something that just doesn’t work as it should!
I doubt I’ll get used to it as it will always annoy me!
I’m now wishing I’d gone with SRAM!

 

[Ajax Bay]

Picture of bike needed before you bin the Di2 and go SRAM e-Tap.

 

[Deleted member 23692]

I've got home-botched hydro brakes on my gravel bike with R685 STi levers with Deore calipers, and they lever throw is not much different to my 3 flat bar hydro bikes (all shimano). The angle moved before the bite point is pretty much the same but the length of the drop bar levers makes it feel much further. My rim braked road bike has much less throw, but with rims running dead true I can set them like that.

I too like a short throw and after any bleed I always burp them a few weeks once any remaining air has chance to rise to the top

 

[Sniper68]

Picture of bike needed before you bin the Di2 and go SRAM e-Tap.

Bike is the LynskeyR480 in my sig.
STi position is fine on the bars,where I would position my levers normally. Brakes aren’t spongy so I don’t think there’s any air left in the system. As I said I’ve had hydraulic brakes since the late 90s so I’m not new to them but I am new to STi hydraulics.

 

[Ajax Bay]

I am just about to build up a Lynskey; hence my request, having noted your avatar. But I've gone for TRP Spyres so no hydraulic challenges.

 

[si_c]

Check the stroke adjustment before you remove them.

 

[Sniper68]

Check the stroke adjustment before you remove them.

It’s fully out.

 

[wafter]

I have the R7000s and the bite point is pretty far back in the travel; just measured it at around 35mm lever travel at its lowest extremity.

I really like this bite point (to the extent that I've since adjusted my mech. rim brakes to behave in a similar way) and find that your fingers have more mechanical advantage and control at this point, although appreciate that to an extent it's a matter of personal preference.

 

[I like Skol]

I have the Ultegra hydraulic Brifters and these are superb with solid, predictable bite and inspire utter confidence.
I am an mtb man but really like the road lever feel and haven't felt the need to play with them so a bit surprised you are experiencing any problems.

x2 you need to play with the bite point adjustment to get the sweetpoint dialled in before condemning the set-up.

 

[Sniper68]

I am just about to build up a Lynskey; hence my request, having noted your avatar. But I've gone for TRP Spyres so no hydraulic challenges.

There should be no hydraulic challenges!As with a car or motorcycle...or MTB they should just work!!Unfortunately my first experience with Road-hydros is proving otherwise!

OK here's where I want them and expect them to engage:-

Here's where they actually engage:-

Not acceptable and not what my experience of hydraulic brakes is or has been.Absolutely zero modulation or progressive feel.

 

[Sniper68]

I have the Ultegra hydraulic Brifters and these are superb with solid, predictable bite and inspire utter confidence.
I am an mtb man but really like the road lever feel and haven't felt the need to play with them so a bit surprised you are experiencing any problems.

x2 you need to play with the bite point adjustment to get the sweetpoint dialled in before condemning the set-up.

The bite-point is set as far out as it ill go.