mrbikerboy73
Über Member
- Location
- Worthing, UK
I've got it pretty good and it only does it occasionally so I wondered if it's a design issue maybe?Try tweaking that barrel adjuster a tad, maybe 1/8th-1/4 of a turn.
I've got it pretty good and it only does it occasionally so I wondered if it's a design issue maybe?Try tweaking that barrel adjuster a tad, maybe 1/8th-1/4 of a turn.
I've got it pretty good and it only does it occasionally so I wondered if it's a design issue maybe?
@ianrauk cheers, great tutorial there. I'll start again from scratch and hopefully that will sort it.
This is your problem , I run a a 5700 triple setup with a 5701 RD and a 5703 FD, with a 12th gap on each front ring 26-38-50 and it shifts a dream, sometimes its as sweet as the rear, its done 3,600 over the Autumn/Winter with no issues bar keeping the crud of everything.Just seems a little too clunky for my liking, and it takes quite a throw to shift from the 34 to 50. It just seems a tad off. The rear shifting is quite the opposite, bluddy lovely and crisp.
This is your problem , I run a a 5700 triple setup with a 5701 RD and a 5703 FD, with a 12th gap on each front ring 26-38-50 and it shifts a dream, sometimes its as sweet as the rear, its done 3,600 over the Autumn/Winter with no issues bar keeping the crud of everything.
I have never run an RD5700, previous stuff being Sora.Cheers for your input. That makes sense. I was actually thinking of swapping out the 34t for a 36t to limit such a huge jump. D'ya reckon it would shift better if I did this? Also, how does the 5701 work for you? Is it as good or better than a 5700, if you know of course.
I have never run an RD5700, previous stuff being Sora.
@sittingbull not really sure about compacts, I just think the idea of a 16th tooth gap is a retrograde step, most people will be on the high end of the cassette on the 34th or the lower end on the 50th (this I am convinced induces excessive wear), I do most of my riding virtual on the 38th, plus I can have a really close grouped cassette, my next is going to be a 12-23, because even on a 38x24 I get round most of my rides, ( I currently have a 12-27) and the 26x23 still gives me a 30" low gear.
I know why the gaps are there, but why the move to a compact, they are not that much lighter, my chainset weighs 740grms a compact chainset is a bastardisation of a system thats was working well, and because of marketing or people being told to man up, a perfectly good system is being dropped, To get the same range I can get (will when I change my cassette next week) a 26/38/50 with a 12-23 casettee will give me 30-110" with what is a pretty good double range, on the compact its neither here nor there, seems people really don't understand gearing very much, its different if your racing or are extremely fit, you can get away with a closer grouped cassette but us mere mortals can't and the penalty is a nicely grouped cassette, which if you have never ridden you can't compare. Yesterday I was coming up a slight gradient into a bit of a headwind, neither much in itself, but I found myself spinning to much on the 19 and 17 a little low in the cadence stakes.@Nigelnaturist I follow your logic but you're riding a triple (as am I). The reason for the gaps in the cassettes is to bridge the overall range due to a finite number of sprockets. I have a bike with 52/42 rings and a 12-23 cassette and I struggle with hills on it. Until someone develops continuously variable transmission for bikes (if they haven't already) all gearing systems will be a compromise.