Selecting a Wheel Builder and Components

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raleighnut

Legendary Member
I've heard 2 theories, longer spokes and the angle that spokes leave the hub (the closer to tangential the better)

All I know is that I've got 5 rear wheels that are 4 cross and none of them have suffered broken spokes and 3 of those wheels are on 'rack equipped' bikes that have carried 20kg in panniers (Big Carradice ones)
 
Location
Loch side.
I've heard 2 theories, longer spokes and the angle that spokes leave the hub (the closer to tangential the better)

All I know is that I've got 5 rear wheels that are 4 cross and none of them have suffered broken spokes and 3 of those wheels are on 'rack equipped' bikes that have carried 20kg in panniers (Big Carradice ones)

I'm pretty sure that if you give your two reasons some thought you'd discard them.

The brand of your panniers has no bearing on spoke life, nor does anecdotal evidence without proper comparison, mileage and other parameters.
 

raleighnut

Legendary Member
I'm pretty sure that if you give your two reasons some thought you'd discard them.

The brand of your panniers has no bearing on spoke life, nor does anecdotal evidence without proper comparison, mileage and other parameters.
How about I used to break spokes (albeit on 'factory' wheels) but have never broken a spoke on wheels John has built for me (it was him who suggested 4X lacing)
This may be due to better components/build quality too though.
 

Ian H

Ancient randonneur
Examination beats suspicious every time in Paper Rock Scissors.

2mm butt thickness is perfect. Spoke holes are drilled to 2.3 and 2.4mm (depending on manufacturer) and that is the perfect match for a 2mm spoke, leving just enough space for the modification. It is difficult enough to do the modification, yet alone with thicker spokes.

Must admit I haven't found that. I tap just the top end of the elbow, so there isn't a reverse kink, it just flattens out the bend somewhat.
Apologies for the less than clean wheel.

IMG_20170710_142704992.jpg
 
Location
Loch side.
Must admit I haven't found that. I tap just the top end of the elbow, so there isn't a reverse kink, it just flattens out the bend somewhat.
Apologies for the less than clean wheel.

View attachment 361446
It looks OK but the proof of the pudding is whether you can see light through the bend and flange or not. Much better than that in the photo back up in the thread. Those spokes will break within a few thousand kilometers if not sooner.
 

Ian H

Ancient randonneur
I think that hub is about 12 years old. I've just replaced the rim for a second time—last time before the spokes also get replaced. It's done a couple of Paris-Brest-Parises and the usual long-distance stuff.
 
Location
Loch side.
My post has been kidnapped. While the discussion is interesting, it is not directly helping me to decide how to proceed with a wheel. If you can re-read my OP, perhaps you can provide some thoughts. Thanks

Ask your wheelbuilder whether he/she

1) Understands why double-butted spokes are better than straight-gauge
2) How he/she will stress-relieve the wheel
3) What tension the wheels will be built up to
4) Whether you can have a life-long guarantee on the life of the spokes
5) If they understand the difference between pre-stress and stress-relieve and what it is


The answers to these questions have been discussed here ad-infinitum.
 

ianrauk

Tattooed Beat Messiah
Location
Rides Ti2
Interesting to see that DCR would spec me 20:24 lacings; I was given to understand by a few people on here that anything with less than 28 spokes was barely worth being called a wheel at all.


I have 24/24 from DCR,
20,000 miles on the clock and not one problem or spoke break and i'm by no means a lightweight guy.
 

DrLex

merely the moocher
Location
Zummerset
I didn't use DCRwheels, but I had a very informative and efficient email exchange with him when considering a pair of Dynamo 650b wheels for my Bokeh, and the price quoted was within expectations. As mentioned, the ForEx rate may well encourage a U.K.-source.
 
Location
Loch side.
Interesting to see that DCR would spec me 20:24 lacings; I was given to understand by a few people on here that anything with less than 28 spokes was barely worth being called a wheel at all.

Those "few" people would have been the lone sane voices in a sea of ignorance.
There's a place for such wheels but the place is not for everyday use where reliability and peace-of-mind is of no concern.
 

Ian H

Ancient randonneur
I've heard 2 theories, longer spokes and the angle that spokes leave the hub (the closer to tangential the better)

All I know is that I've got 5 rear wheels that are 4 cross and none of them have suffered broken spokes and 3 of those wheels are on 'rack equipped' bikes that have carried 20kg in panniers (Big Carradice ones)

4x used to be your standard spec for well-built touring and tandem wheels. I'm not sure that, with modern (stronger) rims and spokes, it makes any difference.
 
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