Second opinion & chain wear advice required.

[EltonFrog]

I took my hybrid in to the LBS for a check up today, they suggested that I should change the chain as it showing a little over 75% of wear and the rear cassette should be changed with it. The bike has done 1313.37 miles is well maintained, in as much as its always cleaned after every ride, etc.

A little under 1500 miles doesn't seem a lot of miles for a chain and cassette to me, but I don't really know. What say you my learned brethren?

 

[dodgy]

If it's only marginally over 0.75% wear, you should be able to get away with just a new chain. I regularly get 3 chains per cassette, though each subsequent chain gets slightly less miles.

For example (winter bike)

1st chain (on new cassette) 2000 miles
2nd chain (cassette now with 2000 miles on it) 1500 miles
3rd chain (cassette now with 3500 miles on it) 1200 miles

If I try a 4th chain it's touch and go so usually just replace the cassette.

You've not got much to lose just by sticking a new chain on, if everything is smooth then fine.

 

[EltonFrog]

If it's only marginally over 0.75% wear, you should be able to get away with just a new chain. I regularly get 3 chains per cassette, though each subsequent chain gets slightly less miles.

For example (winter bike)

1st chain (on new cassette) 2000 miles
2nd chain (cassette now with 2000 miles on it) 1500 miles
3rd chain (cassette now with 3500 miles on it) 1200 miles

If I try a 4th chain it's touch and go so usually just replace the cassette.

You've not got much to lose just by sticking a new chain on, if everything is smooth then fine.

Is it easy to DIY a chain?

 

[dodgy]

Sure, buy one with removable 'quick link' rather than messing with re-inserting pins etc. Lots of youtube videos showing you how.

You will need a chain tool to size the new chain to the same length as your old one.

 

[Arjimlad]

Yes, it's an easy job with a chain tool to take off surplus links.

Most modern chains have a quick-release link so you can get them on & off easily.

Just make sure you route the chain round the derailleur properly or you'll find a funny buzzing noise appears.

 

[EltonFrog]

Sure, buy one with removable 'quick link' rather than messing with re-inserting pins etc. Lots of youtube videos showing you how.

You will need a chain tool to size the new chain to the same length as your old one.

Ta

 

[slowmotion]

Is it easy to DIY a chain?

Yes.
There are loads of clips on Youtube to show you how to do it. Here's one....
[media]
]View: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2GsJe32U3Ww[/media]

Edit: Sorry, cross-post with Arjimlad.

 

[EltonFrog]

Yes.
There are loads of clips on Youtube to show you how to do it. Here's one....
[media]
]View: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2GsJe32U3Ww[/media]

Edit: Sorry, cross-post with Arjimlad.

Thanks Mr Slowmotion.

 

[Crankarm]

Yes it's really easy. New chain will not necesarily be the same length but should have the SAME number of links as the old one which you should count to make sure. Thus it will be shorter as it will not have stretched so much. You will need a pair of chain link pliers, Park (MLP-1) are the best and worth every penny. It's one of those tools you can't do without but saves you no end of cursing if you don't have a pair. Also NITRILE gloves as chains are oily and messy. I use SCAN deluxe oil and grease resistant. You will also need a chain splitter which could well already be on any multi-tool you might have which you will need to shorten the replacement chain as they are invariably longer at 114 or 116 links. You need to get the correct number of links in the new chain matching the old one. And to monitor wear in future it might be worth getting a chain checker. Again the Park tool CC-3.2 for £8.99 is all you need. I would have thought the cassette was still fine with many thousands of miles of riding left in it. If you ride with a chain that is knackered or devoid of lube then you will cause premature wear of the cassette and chain rings.

So in summary you will need,

chain splitter
chain link pliers (Park MLP-1 for removing a quick link which you have fitted to your replacement chain)
chain quick link either SRAM or KMC (get the right quick link for the chain eg 8,9,10 or 11 spd chain).
Nitrile gloves
Chain checker (Park CC-3.2) to monitor wear of replacement and future chains.
Quality chain lube. Do a search as there has been gallons written on this. With new chain lube it before you put it on.

CRC have all the above.

It is also worth thoroughly cleaning the cassette and front chain rings when fitting a new chain.

If doing this inside or even outside put a lot of paper or old sheet on the floor/ground to prevent oil stains getting you into trouble with OH.

HTH.

 

[ushills]

If going for a new chain KMC are very well recommended on here.

 

[Graham]

I took my hybrid in to the LBS for a check up today, they suggested that I should change the chain as it showing a little over 75% of wear and the rear cassette should be changed with it. The bike has done 1313.37 miles is well maintained, in as much as its always cleaned after every ride, etc.

A little under 1500 miles doesn't seem a lot of miles for a chain and cassette to me, but I don't really know. What say you my learned brethren?

I have had the same chain and cassette on my bike for thousands of miles. It is stretched beyond 1%. It is only now starting to affect gear changing/jumping a bit so I will change it shortly.

This whole chain/cassette changing thing is the equivalent of brake pads on cars - Dealers suggest it and give people the whole 'safety' spiel and people blindly get them done.

OP, trust your own judgement a bit - You've cleaned the chain regularly, its only 0.75% and you've only done 1313 miles. I bet the cassette is like new - I'll buy it off you if you replace it!

 

[EltonFrog]

Yes it's really easy. New chain will not necesarily be the same length but should have the SAME number of links as the old one which you should count to make sure. Thus it will be shorter as it will not have stretched so much. You will need a pair of chain link pliers, Park (MLP-1) are the best and worth every penny. It's one of those tools you can't do without but saves you no end of cursing if you don't have a pair. Also NITRILE gloves as chains are oily and messy. I use SCAN deluxe oil and grease resistant. You will also need a chain splitter which could well already be on any multi-tool you might have which you will need to shorten the replacement chain as they are invariably longer at 114 or 116 links. You need to get the correct number of links in the new chain matching the old one. And to monitor wear in future it might be worth getting a chain checker. Again the Park tool CC-3.2 for £8.99 is all you need. I would have thought the cassette was still fine with many thousands of miles of riding left in it. If you ride with a chain that is knackered or devoid of lube then you will cause premature wear of the cassette and chain rings.

So in summary you will need,

chain splitter
chain link pliers (Park MLP-1 for removing a quick link which you have fitted to your replacement chain)
chain quick link either SRAM or KMC (get the right quick link for the chain eg 8,9,10 or 11 spd chain).
Nitrile gloves
Chain checker (Park CC-3.2) to monitor wear of replacement and future chains.
Quality chain lube. Do a search as there has been gallons written on this. With new chain lube it before you put it on.

CRC have all the above.

It is also worth thoroughly cleaning the cassette and front chain rings when fitting a new chain.

If doing this inside or even outside put a lot of paper or old sheet on the floor/ground to prevent oil stains getting you into trouble with OH.

HTH.

Many thanks Crankarm for your detailed reply.

 

[EltonFrog]

I have had the same chain and cassette on my bike for thousands of miles. It is stretched beyond 1%. It is only now starting to affect gear changing/jumping a bit so I will change it shortly.

This whole chain/cassette changing thing is the equivalent of brake pads on cars - Dealers suggest it and give people the whole 'safety' spiel and people blindly get them done.

OP, trust your own judgement a bit - You've cleaned the chain regularly, its only 0.75% and you've only done 1313 miles. I bet the cassette is like new - I'll buy it off you if you replace it!

Thanks Graham

 

[02GF74]

I have had the same chain and cassette on my bike for thousands of miles. It is stretched beyond 1%. It is only now starting to affect gear changing/jumping a bit so I will change it shortly.

OP, trust your own judgement a bit - You've cleaned the chain regularly, its only 0.75% and you've only done 1313 miles. I bet the cassette is like new - I'll buy it off you if you replace it!

note sure i agree with your advice. yes, sure you can run a chain and cassette into oblivoun but it will also wear out the chain rings so when it comes time to replace the chain, coz as you point out, shifting degrades, it becomes quite expensive. chain £ 12, cassette £ 30, chain rings £ 50

replacing chain once it has reached .75% wear (not STRETCH!) will mean that the same cassette can be use for 3 chains.

I do not know whoch oif the two methods works out cheaper in the long run.

as for buying a worn cassette at 1,300 miles, there will be 2 or 3 gears that get the most use so the lesser used gears may be perfectly fine with a new chain, the worn ones may not be.

KMC cheaper than shimano and work well.

 

[Graham]

note sure i agree with your advice. yes, sure you can run a chain and cassette into oblivoun but it will also wear out the chain rings so when it comes time to replace the chain, coz as you point out, shifting degrades, it becomes quite expensive. chain £ 12, cassette £ 30, chain rings £ 50

replacing chain once it has reached .75% wear (not STRETCH!) will mean that the same cassette can be use for 3 chains.

I do not know whoch oif the two methods works out cheaper in the long run.

as for buying a worn cassette at 1,300 miles, there will be 2 or 3 gears that get the most use so the lesser used gears may be perfectly fine with a new chain, the worn ones may not be.

KMC cheaper than shimano and work well.

Fair comments - I guess my main thought was 1300 miles on a well looked after chain wasn't much and it should go a fair bit longer. One of the commuting guys may have a good idea of the costs of running stuff into the ground vs replacing regularly.