Seat height help please

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Bit of advice please.

I ride a 56cm framed road bike with 700c wheels and I am 5 ft 10 (31 inside leg) and I use flat pedals without clips (I might go clipless in the spring)

I can currently put the balls of both feet on the floor, I feel the seat should be a bit higher but when I raised I felt a bit wobbly and as I commute on busy roads I dropped it back down, should I have persevered?

My LBS suggested I should only be able to put one foot down, is this right and safe if commuting not racing is the main use

Any advice gratefully received
 

PpPete

Legendary Member
Location
Chandler's Ford
Height of saddle above the floor is (or should be) irrelevant. The critical measurement is distance from top of saddle to centre of bottom bracket spindle. With pedal down on one side and that leg straight you should still be able to put your heel on the pedal. Then when you move foot back to ball of the foot over the pedal you will have something like the appropriate bend in the knee at the bottom of the stroke (30 deg is oft quoted as ideal).
I have one bike with a very high BB so I have to get right off the saddle to get a foot on the ground unless I lean over to a stupid degree. Takes some getting used to but certainly not "wobbly".
 
OP
OP
simon the viking
Thank you, I will try that tomorrow and see what its like. From what you say I reckon it does need to up a bit I think my knee is more bent than that
 

SpokeyDokey

68, & my GP says I will officially be old at 70!
Moderator
Stopped and seated in saddle I can only get 1 foot down on tip-toes.

That's not my postion at eg traffic light stops though. I have one foot down, the other foot clipped in and ready to apply power for the off and my crotch on the top tube.

Would not want the saddle any lower tbh.

Persevere unless you are really nervous/unsafe.
 

craven2354

Well-Known Member
I used to ride with my saddle to low and when I rode I often got a pain in the front of my knee I then moved it us using the "heel" method ad find it a lot easier to cycle but I have to get off the. Saddle to touch the floor unless I'm extra to the kerb
 

FreeFlow Bikes

Active Member
You should have a slight bend in your knee when the pedal is in the 6 o'clock position. As previously mention if you place your heel on the pedal and adjust the saddle until your leg is locked straight then when you put your foot back on properly you'll have a slight bend in the knee.

Bike fit is very important to ensure you don't get aches and pains which could put you off riding.
 
I can only stay in the saddle at lights/junctions if there is a curb to use, otherwise its off the saddle with 1 foot still on pedal and the other (obviously) on the floor. Same on both bikes.

Just ease it up slowly a little at a time (unless you get knee pain) and you will get more used to it.
 
OP
OP
simon the viking
Thanks everyone for your time and effort in replying, from all the replies I have deduced that my seat is way too low and may cause me knee problems long term so I've raised it while at work and I'm going to try my commute home (I've got an allen key with me if it is to high) I've gone to being on tip toes from almost flatfoot down!
 
I use the heel method and it means I have to come forward off the saddle when stopped.
I can JUST touch the ground on tiptoes if in the saddle but only do this if I'm only stoping for a second.

Once you get used to it, it better. Not only will it stop the knee hurting, your cycling will become more efficient as you'll require less energy to keep the same cadence.

Last bit of advice, I only tend to make changes at the weekend so I am used to it before taking on a commute, but then mine is in central London.
 
Thanks everyone for your time and effort in replying, from all the replies I have deduced that my seat is way too low and may cause me knee problems long term so I've raised it while at work and I'm going to try my commute home (I've got an allen key with me if it is to high) I've gone to being on tip toes from almost flatfoot down!
if you find your hips are rotating from side to side with each pedal stroke, you have gone too far. Your pelvis should be stable when pedaling
 

youngoldbloke

The older I get, the faster I used to be ...
There is a huge amount of information about this on the net - from the highly academic to the over simplistic. (Google - Le Mond method, Holmes method, Hamley method, Heel/Toe method etc, etc). In the end there is no one correct way - whatever feels and works best for you, but if you make too big adjustment in one step it might feel strange initially. Note that if you want to calculate the distances you need to know your inseam measurement - not the same as your 'inside leg' trouser measurement - but the distance from crotch to floor in bare or stockinged feet. I don't think I ever stay seated on the saddle when I come to a stop - just not possible for me. You soon get used to instinctively sliding forward off the saddle. In fact you will constantly be moving and changing position, transferring weight on/off the saddle when riding a road bike.
 

mark st1

Plastic Manc
Location
Leafy Berkshire
I know we are all different mate but im 5ft 11" with a 31" inside leg and a 56" frame was to big for me stem was to long and in general the frame was a tad too big. Dropped a size and it has made so much difference to my comfort and fit on the bike. I would also take a trip to your lbs with your bike a good mechanic would be able to align the seat up for you which as i have also found makes a world of difference.
 

PpPete

Legendary Member
Location
Chandler's Ford
I know we are all different mate but im 5ft 11" with a 31" inside leg and a 56" frame was to big for me stem was to long and in general the frame was a tad too big. Dropped a size and it has made so much difference to my comfort and fit on the bike. I would also take a trip to your lbs with your bike a good mechanic would be able to align the seat up for you which as i have also found makes a world of difference.
56" :eek:
56 cm maybe ?
 
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