Scared to tighten disc bolts

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gaijintendo

Veteran
Location
Scotchland
Hello all,

I picked up these:

http://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/WPMNEO...on-6-bolt-9mm-quick-release-28-hole-disc-hubs

I then picked up some "Reverse" brand Disc Rotor Bolts from Amazon (was making up an order)
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Reverse-Rotor-brake-accessories-pieces/dp/B00AEFBG90/

They are specced as M5x10mm Torx 25, and obviously the wheels are described as "9mm"(?).

Anyway, on tightening the bolts by hand, they go on around 3mm then stop dead. I obviously don't want to force them on - did I just buy the wrong bolts?
 
Location
Loch side.
You bought the wrong bolts, but not for the reasons you think.
Let's deal with your perceived problem first. Measure the depth of the hole they're supposed to go in to and measure the length of the bolt's shank. If the shank is shorter than the hole plus the thickness of the discs, the bolts are the correct length. It is the blue threadlock compound on them that makes them difficult to screw in. Total torque should be 6NM.

Now, for the bolts you purchased. I'm pretty certain they are aluminium. That's the second worst bolt material on the planet. Only margarine would be worse. Their pretty red colour is anodizing and it can only be done on aluminium or Titanium and if it were the latter, the price would have been much higher and the fact that it is Titanium would have been emblazoned on the listing like a Coca Cola advert on a Hong Kong skyscraper.

Aluminium will corrode and weld itself permanently into your hubs before the end of this next winter. If it doesn't, I'll buy you ice cream.

Get steel bolts, ride bike, drink beer and take photos.

PS: The 9mm is the axle diameter. Don't worry about that.
 
OP
OP
gaijintendo

gaijintendo

Veteran
Location
Scotchland
You bought the wrong bolts, but not for the reasons you think.
Let's deal with your perceived problem first. Measure the depth of the hole they're supposed to go in to and measure the length of the bolt's shank. If the shank is shorter than the hole plus the thickness of the discs, the bolts are the correct length. It is the blue threadlock compound on them that makes them difficult to screw in. Total torque should be 6NM.

Now, for the bolts you purchased. I'm pretty certain they are aluminium. That's the second worst bolt material on the planet. Only margarine would be worse. Their pretty red colour is anodizing and it can only be done on aluminium or Titanium and if it were the latter, the price would have been much higher and the fact that it is Titanium would have been emblazoned on the listing like a Coca Cola advert on a Hong Kong skyscraper.

Aluminium will corrode and weld itself permanently into your hubs before the end of this next winter. If it doesn't, I'll buy you ice cream.

Get steel bolts, ride bike, drink beer and take photos.

PS: The 9mm is the axle diameter. Don't worry about that.

Awesome reply, very much obliged. I really didn't want to hastily thread the things.

As for the materials, I now want Titanium bolts, titanium frame etc etc. I took a look at the site on the packaging and they are supposedly steel. "Steel S10B21 / class 10.9", whatever that means. "Coloured steel"

http://reverse-components.com/en/products/disc-rotor-bolts

So, now I am questioning them. They are red, and sort of look anodised, but I didn't think you could anodise steel.

Should I just give up on having pretty things and invest in some titanium/steel nuts?
 

Profpointy

Legendary Member
Awesome reply, very much obliged. I really didn't want to hastily thread the things.

As for the materials, I now want Titanium bolts, titanium frame etc etc. I took a look at the site on the packaging and they are supposedly steel. "Steel S10B21 / class 10.9", whatever that means. "Coloured steel"

http://reverse-components.com/en/products/disc-rotor-bolts

So, now I am questioning them. They are red, and sort of look anodised, but I didn't think you could anodise steel.

Should I just give up on having pretty things and invest in some titanium/steel nuts?

If they are 10.9 bolts they will indeed be "high tensile" steel ie the good stuff. Just from weight you should be able to tell if they're steel or aluminium, or even a magnet if you're unfamiliar with what weight of materials feel like. Like YS above, i didn't think you could anodise steel either, but that would have been a guess on my part - but that said, I can't really see why not, or at least plate them with something. "coloured steel" is what they claim so presumably that explains the red.

You need to be confident that the threads are really the right size before forcing them, but I guess if the first bit goes in OK with just fingers, then it's OK, with them only getting tight when you get to the gloopy stuff on them.

YS is right on the length point - that too is key. He's also right that aluminium is very poor for bolts for anything requiring any strength at all, and is frankly too much of a pain even for things that don't
 
OP
OP
gaijintendo

gaijintendo

Veteran
Location
Scotchland
If they are 10.9 bolts they will indeed be "high tensile" steel ie the good stuff. Just from weight you should be able to tell if they're steel or aluminium, or even a magnet if you're unfamiliar with what weight of materials feel like. Like YS above, i didn't think you could anodise steel either, but that would have been a guess on my part - but that said, I can't really see why not, or at least plate them with something. "coloured steel" is what they claim so presumably that explains the red.

You need to be confident that the threads are really the right size before forcing them, but I guess if the first bit goes in OK with just fingers, then it's OK, with them only getting tight when you get to the gloopy stuff on them.

YS is right on the length point - that too is key. He's also right that aluminium is very poor for bolts for anything requiring any strength at all, and is frankly too much of a pain even for things that don't

You both mentioned the length of the bolts. I just took a look, and it seems as like it is a smidge longer than the disc and hole. Presumably the problem here is ends corroding and ceasing up the bolts. Is that right? Is this a dealbreaker?
 

Profpointy

Legendary Member
You both mentioned the length of the bolts. I just took a look, and it seems as like it is a smidge longer than the disc and hole. Presumably the problem here is ends corroding and ceasing up the bolts. Is that right? Is this a dealbreaker?

Can't really visualise the arrangement to be definitive on lenght and I'm not familiar with (push-)bike discs.

However for bolts in general the head needs to screw down flat against whatever its holding, and there needs to be enough thread screwed in to have purchase. So how much is enough? Well if you had a nut and bolt, clearly the thickness of a nut is "enough" so use whatever thickness a nut of that size would be as a guide.

I'm guessing the hole in the disc itself is smooth not threaded, and the hub is threaded. Or maybe vice versa? Presumably both aren't threaded else that would be silly !

If the bolt (pedantically I should really say screw) is sticking out the other end a bit (assuming it goes right through) then that's fine within reason - ie it mustn't foul on anything when the wheel goes round. Your screws are only 10mm I think you said, ao can't stick out much !
 
Location
Loch side.
If they are 10.9 bolts they will indeed be "high tensile" steel ie the good stuff. Just from weight you should be able to tell if they're steel or aluminium, or even a magnet if you're unfamiliar with what weight of materials feel like. Like YS above, i didn't think you could anodise steel either, but that would have been a guess on my part - but that said, I can't really see why not, or at least plate them with something. "coloured steel" is what they claim so presumably that explains the red.

You need to be confident that the threads are really the right size before forcing them, but I guess if the first bit goes in OK with just fingers, then it's OK, with them only getting tight when you get to the gloopy stuff on them.

YS is right on the length point - that too is key. He's also right that aluminium is very poor for bolts for anything requiring any strength at all, and is frankly too much of a pain even for things that don't
 

Profpointy

Legendary Member

bah, grammar pedant. Anyhow, I hate making mistakes like that
 
Location
Loch side.
bah, grammar pedant. Anyhow, I hate making mistakes like that
No no no no. You get me wrong. I accentuated the word because it is such an obvious solution to the problem. Every toolbox has a magnet (and vernier) in it, doesn't it? I didn't even think of suggesting it because I just presume it is the first thing one would do.
 

Profpointy

Legendary Member
Actually on another poin
No no no no. You get me wrong. I accentuated the word because it is such an obvious solution to the problem. Every toolbox has a magnet (and vernier) in it, doesn't it? I didn't even think of suggesting it because I just presume it is the first thing one would do.

Sorry I though you were being picky about me seemingly suggesting magnetic bolts !
I do hate writing clumsy sentences, so immediately jumped to the wrong conclusion.
 

Profpointy

Legendary Member
No no no no. You get me wrong. I accentuated the word because it is such an obvious solution to the problem. Every toolbox has a magnet (and vernier) in it, doesn't it? I didn't even think of suggesting it because I just presume it is the first thing one would do.

Unless of course they are stainless bolts which are non-magnetic, or not very magnetic at any rate
 
Location
Loch side.
Unless of course they are stainless bolts which are non-magnetic, or not very magnetic at any rate
Yes.
I'm starting to become really interested in how they managed to colour those steel bolts. Black oxide I understand, but red and gold and blue? I wish I had good red screws like that in my days. I couldn't sell anything red back then and couldn't keep up with red bits and bobs, especially hubs and nipples.
 
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