Rubbing front disc when riding

[roger06]

Hi

I have a Jamis Nova cx. There's a 'chaffing' sound coming from the front wheel and I can only think it's the disc rubbing on the pad. However, when I spin the wheel when I'm off the bike it's silent, it only makes the noise when I'm on it!

Any ideas? I've tried different tension on the quick-release but doesn't seem to make a difference.

thanks

 

[roadrash]

Have you tried to re-align the brake caliper, like so

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V3uCGRAWG2M

 

[Yellow Saddle]

Have you tried to re-align the brake caliper, like so

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V3uCGRAWG2M

That wont help. @Roger described a condition where alignment is ruled out.

The problem is fork flex or quick release tension. Upgrade to a Shimano quick release and read the instructions on how to tighten it before trying anything else.

 

[roger06]

Thanks. That showed one that rubbed all the time whereas mine is only when I'm on the bike so I don't see how I could make an adjustment. Don't know if it's related but the front brake is very fierce; either seems to be on or off so engages with a heavy 'clunk'.

 

[roger06]

Upgrade to a Shimano quick release and read the instructions on how to tighten it before trying anything else.

Really? On a £500 bike I bought five months ago?

 

[Yellow Saddle]

Really? On a £500 bike I bought five months ago?

Yes really. What do you think precludes any manufacturer from putting a rubbish QR on there? And yes really. Most, and I mean most, people do not know how to tighten a QR.

 

[roger06]

Well, what makes me think that is that if a bike (or anything else purchased) is not fit for purpose it'll get returned, the company's reputation will go downhill due to poor quality and they'll go out of business.

 

[Pale Rider]

Worth checking if the bolts holding the rotor are tight.

They don't often loosen, but it happened to a member of my riding group a few weeks ago.

Another thumbs up for a Shimano quick release skewer.

They are among the best.

As @Yellow Saddle says, a cheapo quick release is one of the components a manufacturer may skimp on to get your bike down to £500.

Wheel bearings is another.

Common theme being things you cannot readily see in the shop or are unlikely to look into closely.

 

[Yellow Saddle]

Well, what makes me think that is that if a bike (or anything else purchased) is not fit for purpose it'll get returned, the company's reputation will go downhill due to poor quality and they'll go out of business.

You seem to disbelieve me and it tells me that you're a new rider that gets his/her education from marketing brochures and bike magazines. There's a current thread here about crank clicking and if you follow that and delve a bit, you'll see that this industry is rife with poor design and giving in to consumer pressure for ever lighter bikes. These bad designs don't fail outright but make the riders suffer a life of clicking and groaning bikes, short-lived bearings and fast-changing standards with obsolescence as a consequence.
Perfect bike with solid engineering? Dream on.

 

[roger06]

No, I don't disbelieve you - I appreciate your input. I just fail to believe that, in this day and age, a bike can have such a fundamental flaw. I've had hand-me-down twenty year old bikes which have been very scruffy but largely problem-free. My wife has a bike that was around £120 from Halfords about 15 years ago and, although the weight of a Chieftain tank, never gives any problems at all.

To be honest, my biggest regret is not buying locally so I can pop into the shop and sort these niggles out, but I bought it on the ride to work scheme so couldn't. Lesson learnt!

 

[Globalti]

You can have cheap, light and strong but only two of those at any one time. Your wife's bike is cheap and strong and built to last so not light.

Your new bike is cheap and light so is suffering from flexing of the forks, which is causing that brake to rub. Buy a Shimano QR and be sure to understand how it works.

 

[simon.r]

Yes really. What do you think precludes any manufacturer from putting a rubbish QR on there? And yes really. Most, and I mean most, people do not know how to tighten a QR.

I'll bite. How does one tighten a QR?

 

[The_Weekend_Report_Guy]

I'll bite. How does one tighten a QR?

tight the nut and then close the lever...

A lot of people holds the nut and twist the lever..

Hey I am itching to know the proper answer..!

 

[Globalti]

You start with the camming lever in the "open" position, then you turn the non-lever end, which should be on the right of the bike, until the serrations begin to grip the dropout. Then cam over the lever to tighten the QR, adjusting the right hand end to the point where camming the lever makes an impression on your hand but can still be undone with two or three fingers.

Many levers are curved inwards in the closed position and Shimano levers have "open" and "closed" embossed on them.

Conventionally the closed front lever is in front of and close to the fork and the rear nestling between chainstay and seatstay.

 

[The_Weekend_Report_Guy]

You start with the camming lever in the "open" position, then you turn the non-lever end, which should be on the right of the bike, until the serrations begin to grip the dropout. Then cam over the lever to tighten the QR, adjusting the right hand end to the point where camming the lever makes an impression on your hand but can still be undone with two or three fingers.

Many levers are curved inwards in the closed position and Shimano levers have "open" and "closed" embossed on them.

Conventionally the closed front lever is in front of and close to the fork and the rear nestling between chainstay and seatstay.

That is what I said right?