Rough gear shifts

[raleighnut]

Thanks for highlighting - will have a proper look in the morning.

When you fit a replacement rear mech check the hanger alignment, anything with enough force to break the arm could well have tweaked the mount out of line too.

 

[Ajax Bay]

Well spotted @YukonBoy
Do the OP need that extra link to drop the RD? The largest sprocket looks manageable without and unnecessary distance between the guide wheel and the sprocket will mean poor shifting.

 

[Mike_P]

Do the OP need that extra link to drop the RD?

Looks the same as my 105; the gear hanger dropping down vertically from the frame and the initial component of the 105 running horizontally.

 

[Dwn]

I've now had another look at the bike this morning, and the good news is that the derailleur cage isn't broken - the photo was a bit misleading. The weather here this morning is pretty horrible and my shed is too small to get the bike on a stand, but a quick inspection isn't showing any obvious blockages.

Running the pedals backwards does cause the chain/jockey wheels to jump/jerk frequently - although not obvious why.

 

[Ming the Merciless]

Did you look at why the chain is not wrapped round the lower cassette teeth but instead turns at a sharp angle where I drew the red circle? Take a picture from the front looking behind that mount point directly at where the chain leaves the cassette.

 

[Dwn]

I took the bike out for a short test today, and have a few observations.

1. Changing gear remained very clunky, but seemed marginally better when on the large front ring. In every case shifting appeared worse as I moved down the cassette.

2. The chain felt very tight on bigger gears - but this may be a false perception since I was concerned about it snapping the way it did yesterday.

3. The rear disc rotor was making a very loud screeching noise whenever I stopped pedalling - this stopped after a couple of miles. It's a new rotor, since I went from 6 bolt to center lock as part of the wheel changeover. I didn't know if this is related in any way to the gears issue

I've attached some more photos, but not sure if they help.

Thanks

 

[Mike_P]

The changing gear issue could be cable stretch, change the gears so the chain is on the smallest cog and turn the barrel adjuster on the cable housing as it enters the derailleur counter clockwise until the chain starts to try to move to the next cog. Turn the barrel adjuster clockwise until the chain stops trying to move to the next cog. If it does not try to move the cable has stretched too much and needs to be disconnected from the derailleur and reattached appropriately tensioned, then repeat the barrel adjuster process.

The disc rotor noise sounds as if the pads are protruding too much and need the pistons resetting.

 

[Dwn]

The changing gear issue could be cable stretch, change the gears so the chain is on the smallest cog and turn the barrel adjuster on the cable housing as it enters the derailleur counter clockwise until the chain starts to try to move to the next cog. Turn the barrel adjuster clockwise until the chain stops trying to move to the next cog. If it does not try to move the cable has stretched too much and needs to be disconnected from the derailleur and reattached appropriately tensioned, then repeat the barrel adjuster process.

The disc rotor noise sounds as if the pads are protruding too much and need the pistons resetting.

I've just had a go at the barrel adjuster and, at least on the stand, changes seem smoother - I suspect with a bit more finesse it could be improved more. I'll get out on the road tomorrow to try it under a bit more power. Thanks for suggesting that. Until recently I've been very much a ignore it if everything is working type of cyclist, so this is all a bit new to me.

The disc rotors are currently silent, so fingers crossed.

 

[Ajax Bay]

I suggest your chain maybe too short (looking at the latest images posted).
Please would you share one further photo with the chain on large/large, from the side? (If the chain parted (OP think's due to their faulty joining) then maybe a link (1") was lost when the quicklink was employed instead - shades of @Mike_P 's point.)

 

[Mike_P]

Re chain length, check the number of links it should have if its a 10 or 11 speed using
https://www.alpinetrek.co.uk/chain-length-calculator/
and if its a 11 speed add 2 links

 

[Ajax Bay]

Re chain length: put it on large/large and if the cage is pointing closer to the horizontal than 5 o'clock, it's too short. Danger of breaking more than just a poorly joined chain when inadvertently shifting large/large.

 

[Dwn]

I suggest your chain maybe too short (looking at the latest images posted).
Please would you share one further photo with the chain on large/large, from the side? (If the chain parted (OP think's due to their faulty joining) then maybe a link (1") was lost when the quicklink was employed instead - shades of @Mike_P 's point.)

I wondered about that but counted the links and laid it side by side with the old one before I fitted both times.

Photo attached. What do you think?

 

[Mike_P]

Does not seem to be any words visible on the outside of the chain, that side should be on the inside.

 

[Dwn]

Does not seem to be any words visible on the outside of the chain, that side should be on the inside.

That's interesting - I had no idea that chains were directional. Easily sorted

 

[Mark pallister]

Is the b screw set correctly