themosquitoking
Guru
- Location
- Spain
Please, no one do this.ask me how I know this.
Please, no one do this.ask me how I know this.
Please, no one do this.
No. Must resist. go on... I have photos too.
^^^^^^+1 on the 51 cleats, just back the tension off on the pedal when you first fit new ones as they may be tight at first and you can always up the tension later but that may avoid a 'clipless' moment situation (99% of the time these are harmless just embarrassing but sometimes they can really hurt DAMHIKT.)
On the other hand, the recessed shoes have their limitations for serious long distance/high speed (comparative you understand, in my case, at least - I am talking 40 miles or so and 20mph tops) road use, and riders often gravitate to harder-soled better road shoes. These are not recessed. Thus riders end up with the worst of both worlds. Shoes you can't walk in very well and small "high pressure" cleats standing proud of the hard sole.
I am puzzled as to why so many people think SL (three point road type of SPD) are more difficult to manage than the MTB type of SPD.
In the case of the SL the lock is plastic to plastic (or carbon if you are posh, but that is still plastic) so you can always get your foot out by brute force in a panic. The MTB SPD is a metal to metal lock, so you are not going to overpower it. You have to perform the right action to get out.
The big advantage of MTB SPD for everyday use is that you can buy recessed shoes so that you are walking on rubber when walking in your cycling shoes. The SLs have only a couple of plastic grips at the back of the cleat to walk on and are not designed to get you much further than the bar on foot. I find this enough, personally.
On the other hand, the recessed shoes have their limitations for serious long distance/high speed (comparative you understand, in my case, at least - I am talking 40 miles or so and 20mph tops) road use, and riders often gravitate to harder-soled better road shoes. These are not recessed. Thus riders end up with the worst of both worlds. Shoes you can't walk in very well and small "high pressure" cleats standing proud of the hard sole.
I am in the fortunate position that I don't have to commute - retired - so when I put on my cycling shoes I am only going cycling. SLs suit me well for that reason as I do like a hard powerful sole. Though an OAP, I do like to whizz about a bit. I find the idea of choosing cycling shoes for their good walking characteristics as odd as choosing wellies you can dance in.
Either way, SLs are nothing to be feared. They are easy to get into and out of. Indeed, I recently upgraded to carbon pedals as I found the plastic cheaper ones wore quickly and began to feel wobbly and insecure. One final point: people with small feet find most cleats hard to manage as they don't have the twisting leverage necessary to release the cleat. Even the admirable Speedplays can be a problem for them.
Best of luck whatever you choose!
As some on who does more miles then most, in total miles cycled and ride length. (anything up to and over 200+ miles per ride on a very regular basis, so I would call that serious). All my miles are using MTB SPD's and MTB Shoes so can say with experience that what you have said is not really true. You can buy many MTB recessed shoes that are designed to be just as stiff as road shoes. (Specialized for example has a shoe stiffness chart). Road shoes are not necessarily better.
Wow 200+. Can I ask which shoes and pedals you use?
In the case of the SL the lock is plastic to plastic (or carbon if you are posh, but that is still plastic) so you can always get your foot out by brute force in a panic. The MTB SPD is a metal to metal lock, so you are not going to overpower it. You have to perform the right action to get out.
Both pedals can hold your foot securely and both pedals will release in any direction with enough force.
As some on who does more miles then most, in total miles cycled and ride length. (anything up to and over 200+ miles per ride on a very regular basis, so I would call that serious). All my miles are using MTB SPD's and MTB Shoes so can say with experience that what you have said is not really true. You can buy many MTB recessed shoes that are designed to be just as stiff as road shoes. (Specialized for example has a shoe stiffness chart). Road shoes are not necessarily better.
May I suggest that you also learn how to clip out as wellthe cleats look very complicated, I shall have to learn how to clip in all over again!!
That's good advice.May I suggest that you also learn how to clip out as well