Restoring old leather saddles........

[John the Canuck]

If you think Carradice are expensive then do not look at the Brooks saddlebags and tool rolls.

nice
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brooks-Le...K_SportGoods_CyclAcces_RL&hash=item27e79f25ab

 

[raleighnut]

nice
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brooks-Le...K_SportGoods_CyclAcces_RL&hash=item27e79f25ab

Retail on that is about £65 so I'd bet that it goes for @50.

 

[ChrisEyles]

I recently restored an old 1960s brooks (you can tell the date, since it's lacking a name plate on the back, which was only the case for a short period around then), which was in worse condition than yours from the look of the pics. FWIW My method was

1) use some tin foil, water, and vigorous rubbing to take all the rust off of the rails (this also works great on delicate chromed parts)
2) Clean the worst of the grub off the leather with water and a gentle kitchen scourer, then let dry overnight
3) work in some proofhide and leave overnight (on mine the bottom needed a lot more than the top, it was very dry), repeat if necessary
4) polish it up with some regular shoe polish whenever the bike gets cleaned (this is probably mostly cosmetic, but should help with keeping the leather well conditioned without the softening effect of proofhide)

Wish I'd taken before/after pictures of mine, since it worked a treat. Saddle is also very comfortable indeed, despite having been previously moulded to someone else's contours.

I didn't need to tighten the nose bolt on mine, and as others have said this should be done sparingly and carefully!

Haha, yes, Brooks tool rolls are reediculously expensive! I took an old suede tool roll, waterproofed it and added a strap, and it does the job almost as well.

 

[John the Canuck]

I recently restored an old 1960s brooks........... FWIW My method was

1) use some tin foil, water, and vigorous rubbing to take all the rust off of the rails .............
2) Clean the worst of the grub off the leather with water and a gentle kitchen scourer, then let dry overnight
3) work in some proofhide and leave overnight (on mine the bottom needed a lot more than the top, it was very dry), repeat if necessary
4) polish it up with some regular shoe polish whenever the bike gets cleaned (this is probably mostly cosmetic, but should help with keeping the leather well conditioned without the softening effect of proofhide)
.....snip.....
5]....I didn't need to tighten the nose bolt on mine, and as others have said this should be done sparingly and carefully!..................

well the Seller listed mine as a 1950s -- will email Brooks
as received


so----------
1]......not needed
2]..... i use ''Magic Sponges' to clean stuff nowadays.- brilliant. Uses almost zero water moisture so no damage
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-x-Magic...692?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item5664730bb4
3].....i have ordered Proofide..............however, the ingredients are, in order of magnitude
tallow, cod oil, vegetable oil, paraffin wax, beeswax, citronella oil,
not much exotic there methinks....

quotes found on BikeForum US from years ago
''...they [Brooks] say to go easy with Proofide, .... Once, I thought that Proofide was mostly beeswax and paraffin, but no longer. If it were beeswax, then no application warning would be needed, because beeswax cannot over soften leather..''
and
''...Liquid beeswax also seemed to work well.--- I'm now trying a beeswax/carnuba/turpentine blend to see whether it will give a durable gloss finish...''

now- i have a near-full 400g tub of Mylands Traditional Wax which I used to treat custom walnut gun stocks from bare wood about £10-12 i think
it is '' Beeswax and Carnauba''......i have added lots to the underside [with a toothbrush] and sparingly to topside.
Warmed in the sun, it's looking good already - more tomorrow.

4]...... i'll use the Proofide
5]....... i slackened the adjuster 1/2 turn before step #2 just in case

sorry for the long post ..

if you'd like a wee sample of the Mylands - drop me a PM with your address....................................john

 

[John the Canuck]

to anyone who commented on this

''if you'd like a wee sample of the Mylands - drop me a PM with your address.

..........................john''

 

[raleighnut]

well the Seller listed mine as a 1950s -- will email Brooks
as received


so----------
1]......not needed
2]..... i use ''Magic Sponges' to clean stuff nowadays.- brilliant. Uses almost zero water moisture so no damage
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-x-Magic...692?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item5664730bb4
3].....i have ordered Proofide..............however, the ingredients are, in order of magnitude
tallow, cod oil, vegetable oil, paraffin wax, beeswax, citronella oil,
not much exotic there methinks....

quotes found on BikeForum US from years ago
''...they [Brooks] say to go easy with Proofide, .... Once, I thought that Proofide was mostly beeswax and paraffin, but no longer. If it were beeswax, then no application warning would be needed, because beeswax cannot over soften leather..''
and
''...Liquid beeswax also seemed to work well.--- I'm now trying a beeswax/carnuba/turpentine blend to see whether it will give a durable gloss finish...''

now- i have a near-full 400g tub of Mylands Traditional Wax which I used to treat custom walnut gun stocks from bare wood
it is '' Beeswax and Carnauba''......i have added lots to the underside [with a toothbrush] and sparingly to topside.
Warmed in the sun, it's looking good already - more tomorrow.

4]...... i'll use the Proofide
5]....... i slackened the adjuster 1/2 turn before step #2 just in case

sorry for the long post ..

if you'd like a wee sample of the Mylands - drop me a PM with your address....................................john

That looks a beaut John, one thing you can do is roll up a duster and put it between the rails and the leather top, that helps to take some of the weight plus you can then pull out the duster and give the saddle and the bike a polish when stopped for a drink. (its a Retro pose thing, bit like bike clips and a cycling cap )

 

[ChrisEyles]

Should come up nicely! Hope it's nice and comfy when you get it on the bike

 

[John the Canuck]

That looks a beaut John, ...................)

Should come up nicely! ............

to the retro duster

and thanks both........actually I'm thrilled with the change in just 1 application of Mylands.......

no more on top till i get the Proofide....but what about the underside
there is a 'secondary' layer [leather.?]...1950s Champion standard B15
i have 'googled' ''underside Brooks saddle'' and cannot see 1 image of this
yes - i'll email Brooks tonight ...must get the grass cut NOW


later...john

 

[ChrisEyles]

Interesting secondary layer (looks like leather to me) on the underside, not seen that before. To my eyes it looks quite dry, so I'd get in there with the Mylands/proofhide... you know you can delay cutting that grass just a little longer

 

[raleighnut]

Second layer looks like a way of strengthening the top as the sides are well cut away and it doesn't have the plate of the Swallow to link the sides together and stop sag but it does look standard/factory to me (first B15 I've ever come across in over 40 yrs of being a Brooks fan/user).
BTW John the duster tip was serious I saw this and spoke to the guy who told me the 2 reasons and since then have carried one on the B5n equipped Retro. Back in the early 70s every skinhead with RED Doc Martens carried a yellow duster prominently displayed and early photos of one of my heroes from that time, the utterly fantastic (sensational) Alex Harvey shows him with one tucked into his belt (even on an album cover). The duster should not be a cheap one and should have the edges stitched in red cotton thread or in my case I use the Brooks duster (with printed factory logo). Plus its always a good idea to have a cloth of some sort for if you have a puncture or the chain unships and I'm certainly not carrying "babywipes"

 

[ChrisEyles]

I know I'm going to be rummaging under the sink for a duster to stuff under the saddle tonight!

 

[raleighnut]

I know I'm going to be rummaging under the sink for a duster to stuff under the saddle tonight!

Please note. the duster should be folded in half then tightly rolled before being placed between the rails and the saddle in the same way that tyre logo's should be neatly spanning the tyre valve or the duster will just look like a bit of old rag stuffed under the seat not a good look at all.

 

[John the Canuck]

Interesting secondary layer (looks like leather to me) on the underside, not seen that before. To my eyes it looks quite dry, so I'd get in there with the Mylands/proofhide... you know you can delay cutting that grass just a little longer

it does appear like leather
but i'll contact Brook before i do anything - it may indeed need to be rigid

yes - the grass is still there - in post #10 you may be able to see the rear edge ,either side of the nameplate, is quite black
spent ages with the 'magic sponge' -
had to add a little Kiwi brown - but with a coat of beeswax it's pretty well like the rest.. well pleased.

 

[John the Canuck]

Second layer looks like a way of strengthening the top as the sides are well cut away ................ but it does look standard/factory to me .....(first B15 I've ever come across in over 40 yrs of being a Brooks fan/user).
............. . I'm certainly not carrying "babywipes"

that second underside layer is SOLID, and extends under the tension thingy - so guessing it's factory spec. I'll email them
-- the edges of the flaps have not been trimmed BTW
''first B15''.............should have said it was very expensive then in case you wish to buy

sorry - not vintage but i carry latex gloves for chains
PS - ordered the 'kit' - Proofide, spanner, plus a duster

 

[raleighnut]

that second underside layer is SOLID, and extends under the tension thingy - so guessing it's factory spec. I'll email them
-- the edges of the flaps have not been trimmed BTW
''first B15''.............should have said it was very expensive then in case you wish to buy

sorry - not vintage but i carry latex gloves for chains
PS - ordered the 'kit' - Proofide, spanner, plus a duster

I didn't mean the sides had been trimmed I meant that Brooks had cut them away on manufacture and had added the underlayer to prevent sagging.
You should see the work on the underside of my 2005 LE reissue Swallow, the sides were cut away to the front and back leaving a central portion which is folded underneath and joined to the other side by a metal plate, then the inside surface was skived away to leave a thin surface layer which is folded over and stitched back by a "Master Saddler".
I took a deep breath and paid over £200 for mine but there are still some of the 2yr later (black-2007) versions for sale priced at FIVE HUNDRED AND NINETY Euros on their website. Now they sell Steel framed and Titanium framed (like mine) ones as part of their normal range. (they don't come with a Certificate of Authenticity linked to the particular saddle by a serial No though)