Replacing PF30 BB with adapters

[CharleyFarley]

The PF30 BB on my Specialized Fatboy has over 10,000 miles on it, and I noticed a slight creak coming from it. I could take it to a bike shop and have them replace the bearings but I'm considering doing the job, myself, with an adapter. Tools to remove and replace the bearings are kind of expensive, and I think I'm too old to put another 10,000 miles on it. It looks like I'd have to drive out the press fit parts in order to install the adapter; I think I may be able to do that, after watching a video on it.

The drive side part of the adapter has to be press-fitted into the shell. Will it be necessary to buy a tool to install it? If so, then having a bike shop replace the bearings might be my best option, but I also have a question about that: Do they just replace the bearings in the BB or do they put a new BB with bearings in?

https://www.jensonusa.com/Cane-Creek-Hellbender-70-BB30-Bottom-Bracket

 

[Milkfloat]

If you can find a shop that is not busy then for a one off it would probably be cheaper, however you can make your own bearing press out of some threaded bar, washers and a couple of nuts. There are some removal tools that are pretty cheap too, just a bit unwieldly to use (holding hammer, punch and bearing tool all at the same time). I would think that for $25 you could put together some basic tools that will let you do it.

 

[CharleyFarley]

If you can find a shop that is not busy then for a one off it would probably be cheaper, however you can make your own bearing press out of some threaded bar, washers and a couple of nuts. There are some removal tools that are pretty cheap too, just a bit unwieldly to use (holding hammer, punch and bearing tool all at the same time). I would think that for $25 you could put together some basic tools that will let you do it.

Thank you. I think I ought to investigate a bit further. I was wondering if it's the actual bearings that have a slight creak, and if I could drive those out and replace them, and not remove the BB. Being an aluminum frame, I don't want to damage the shell.

I'm the adventurous kind and like to do things, myself. Since I got back into cycling around six years ago, I think I've become pretty proficient at the mechanical side of a bike. It might be a bit of a challenge. I know I could get some threaded rod, large washers and nuts to press fit the drive side part, as long as it goes in squarely. At the moment the creak is very slight so it's not an urgent job.

When the bike only had about 2,000 miles on it, the bearings began to make quite a noise, like someone talking. It was embarrassing as I rode past people at bus stops. I removed the dust seals and stuffed some grease into them, and that cured the noise. Now at 10,400 miles it's probably time to get it done before it goes bad on me.

 

[All uphill]

I'm sure you have correctly diagnosed the problem as being with the bottom bracket, but it's very easy to mistake one creak for another.

My Orro started creaking under load and all the way home I assumed it was the BB30; turned out it was the stem making the noise! Loosening and carefully tightening with a torque wrench eliminated the noise.

 

[Milkfloat]

I'm sure you have correctly diagnosed the problem as being with the bottom bracket, but it's very easy to mistake one creak for another.

My Orro started creaking under load and all the way home I assumed it was the BB30; turned out it was the stem making the noise! Loosening and carefully tightening with a torque wrench eliminated the noise.

I have also had the same with a seatpost, saddle and even wheels in the dropouts, each time I was convinced it was the BB.

 

[cyberknight]

Be aware if you change the BB you will need to change the crankset too,if you're not doing a lot of miles might be worth just getting the lbs to replace the BB like for like,after a few initial problems when mine was changed which was down to the lbs it's been silent ever since

 

[CharleyFarley]

I'm sure you have correctly diagnosed the problem as being with the bottom bracket, but it's very easy to mistake one creak for another.

My Orro started creaking under load and all the way home I assumed it was the BB30; turned out it was the stem making the noise! Loosening and carefully tightening with a torque wrench eliminated the noise.

The creak is a double creak and it happens with each turn of the crank. When I stop pedaling, the creak stops.

I don't think the stem is making any sound; it's a threadless steerer.

 

[CharleyFarley]

Be aware if you change the BB you will need to change the crankset too,if you're not doing a lot of miles might be worth just getting the lbs to replace the BB like for like,after a few initial problems when mine was changed which was down to the lbs it's been silent ever since

I don't understand why the crankset would need to be changed. The original 30mm crank spindle would be used. No? The spindle is in good shape and fits the bearings quite snugly.

 

[Milzy]

You don’t need to change crankset. I’d just let the LBS change the bottom bracket, they’re cheap enough.

 

[figbat]

Have you checked the crank is tight? On a recent ride a friend developed a creak and was convinced it was his BB - I suggested he check the pinch bolts on his NDS crank…. he did, teeaked them up and it was silent afterwards.

 

[cyberknight]

As long as you change the BB to an adapter that has the same crank arm width,some are 24 mm

 

[T4tomo]

EDITED as bollox

 

[figbat]

OP mentioned PF30 rather than BB30. That said the BB30 on my old Cannondale was quiet and I have other press-fit BBs in my fleet that are also quiet (for now…).

 

[T4tomo]

OP mentioned PF30 rather than BB30. That said the BB30 on my old Cannondale was quiet and I have other press-fit BBs in my fleet that are also quiet (for now…).

Ops my bad - apols

 

[CharleyFarley]

Have you checked the crank is tight? On a recent ride a friend developed a creak and was convinced it was his BB - I suggested he check the pinch bolts on his NDS crank…. he did, teeaked them up and it was silent afterwards.

The crank spindle is tight enough that I had to tap it out with a block of wood. The only trouble I had with it was when the left crank arm fell off. The LBS who sold me the bike didn't use the right spacers; the left one was too wide. The crank arm has two pinch bolts and the outer one wasn't even over the spindle. I put several 1mm spacers and a preloader on it.

I took the spindle out, recently, to blow the bearings out with compressed air, then stuff some White Lighting grease into them. It didn't make it any better. I had done the same thing when the bike had about 2,000 miles on it because they were really squealing. I now have 10,400 miles on it and the squeak is actually bearable and can't even be heard with traffic noise. So the fact that they are now squeaking, slightly, makes me consider new parts before I'm forced to change them.

The new BB I'm looking at presses in from the drive side, then the other half screws into the pressed-in part. To add to my confusion I note that the part I'm considering is a BB30; but it still takes a 30mm spindle. I might be looking at something that won't work but if it does, what's the advantage over the PF30? Would future bearings be easier to change? If not, then I might as well go to the LBS and have them do the whole thing, but I like to do things, myself, for the satisfaction and to learn.