Replacing parts before they fail

[jefmcg]

I just had my rear derailleur cable failed a few miles into a ride. A brilliant bike shop replaced it for me (more of that in another thread in the next few days). Strava says the current cable had about 5000 miles on it.

I've become a believer in not "servicing" a bike, but replacing parts as they fail - but .... I now see how this can land me in the poop.

What do people do with things like cables that fail suddenly? Replace them according to a schedule? Bring spare cables on every ride? Or just cope with mid-ride failures and sort it out when they are home?

(My bottom bracket, chain, cassette, bar tap at least are at end of life. Might be time for a "service")

 

[S-Express]

Cables can last 5 minutes or 5 years - it doesn't matter when you replace them, as the new one could break the next day. Not sure what you mean by 'fade' though. Never heard of a cable 'fading' before.

 

[jefmcg]

Not sure what you mean by 'fade' though. Never heard of a cable 'fading' before.

Thanks for the response.

I meant "failed". As in "snapped" (don't tell @Yellow Saddle or I will end up in an argument about metallurgy.) Oops. Thanks and fixed.

 

[Bazzer]

Personally I don't have any spare cables. On my hybrid the brake cables were changed after 20 odd years due to one of the them fraying and catching in the outer sheath. No snap though. I think I also had a gear cable fray and snap for a Sturmey Archer gear on a previous bike. But again, age may have been a factor and in the latter case a certain amount of forcing on my part..

 

[Levo-Lon]

Cables tend to go a bit stiff or slow, by that i mean gears change poorly on the way down the block.
i renew the inners as soon as that starts..and occasionally the outer if its still a bit naff after threading a new inner...

 

[gavroche]

Considering that bicycles are supposed to be simple machines, it is amazing how much can go wrong!

 

[outlash]

Bit of both, you can't legislate for things like cables or chains snapping, but when I'm giving my bikes a bit of attention, I'd check for things like tyre wear, frayed cable ends, frame cracks etc etc.

 

[DaveReading]

I am currently on tour and getting a creaking from the bottom bracket. I have tightened the crank bolt on the drive side, and that quietens it for a couple of days. After that I am able to tighten the bolt again. This is telling me that there is a strong possibility of that crank failing soon, even though it not yet failed.

Out of interest, what mode of crank failure do you anticipate ? (I only ask because I've currently got a creaky BB too, and I can't work out what's causing it).

 

[Yellow Saddle]

There was probably some indication pre-failure that you could have seen. Maybe some fraying?
I am currently on tour and getting a creaking from the bottom bracket. I have tightened the crank bolt on the drive side, and that quietens it for a couple of days. After that I am able to tighten the bolt again. This is telling me that there is a strong possibility of that crank failing soon, even though it not yet failed.

I guess it is a square taper crank.

Square tapers are mysterious things and they behave counter-intuitively. If they are in good condition and the square had not been ruined previously, they tend to tighten themselves rather than loosen themselves. This is because under load, the taper, fuelled by pressure from the bolt, squirms itself up the taper away from the bolt. The result is that the bolt becomes loose and even falls out. This is the primary reason (I suppose aesthetics is the secondary) for the so-called dust cap on the bolt. It prevents the bolt from falling out and getting lost.

All this can be prevented by greasing the taper before fitting the crank and torqueing it to the correct setting first time. A greased taper settles into its preferred position immediately upon installation rather than gradually. An ultra-small amount of grease is all that's necessary, even just greasy fingers handling the BB is enough to make it fit perfectly.

In your case I would inspect for damage and if there is none, I would remove it, grease, torque and ride.

 

[Yellow Saddle]

Thanks for the response.

I meant "failed". As in "snapped" (don't tell @Yellow Saddle or I will end up in an argument about metallurgy.) Oops. Thanks and fixed.

Don't worry, he will be around soon campaigning against colloquialisms and obscure terminology. He has a bee in his bonnet about clarity of communication when it comes to things technical.

 

[Yellow Saddle]

I just had my rear derailleur cable failed a few miles into a ride. A brilliant bike shop replaced it for me (more of that in another thread in the next few days). Strava says the current cable had about 5000 miles on it.

I've become a believer in not "servicing" a bike, but replacing parts as they fail - but .... I now see how this can land me in the poop.

What do people do with things like cables that fail suddenly? Replace them according to a schedule? Bring spare cables on every ride? Or just cope with mid-ride failures and sort it out when they are home?

(My bottom bracket, chain, cassette, bar tap at least are at end of life. Might be time for a "service")

Cables should be replaced routinely. Both the inner and outer should be replaced. This is for prevention and pleasure. New, good quality cables make shifting and braking so much nicer. I quite like the term "fade" someone (didn't) use. It nicely describes the gradual deterioration of cable performance.

 

[gavroche]

Cables should be replaced routinely. Both the inner and outer should be replaced. This is for prevention and pleasure. New, good quality cables make shifting and braking so much nicer. I quite like the term "fade" someone (didn't) use. It nicely describes the gradual deterioration of cable performance.

Just like the gradual deterioration and performance of the rider as he/she gets older.The difference is, he/she cannot get new parts to improve it.

 

[S-Express]

Don't worry, he will be around soon campaigning against colloquialisms and obscure terminology. He has a bee in his bonnet about clarity of communication when it comes to things technical.

Don't make me go back through your post history, you old hypocrite, you

You say your experience is that lighter wheels in the high class catergory are stronger. How did you ascertain that? How do these wheels make a difference in handling and accelerating? I'm particularly interested in the handling aspect? Any pointers for me? You say this is all from experience. Could you be specific about these qualities that you experienced?

I suspect there's lots more where that came from.

 

[S-Express]

I quite like the term "fade" someone (didn't) use

Did use. It was then subsequently edited. Surprised you are going for the ad hominems, when you've had so many yourself, according to your post history. What was that word I used earlier?

 

[Levo-Lon]

Just like the gradual deterioration and performance of the rider as he/she gets older.The difference is, he/she cannot get new parts to improve it.

Adding the incorrect amounts of Alcohol can fix all these issues...temporairily tho