Replacing 6 gear back set with an 8 set one

[nigelb]

Well, after help here, and lots of Sheldon reading, I replaced the headset this evening.

How can it be that I have just the same play?

Just how much play is acceptable with a threaded headset - to detect it I was applying the front brake fully, rocking the back back and forward, and had my hand on teh top of the headset - can just detect movement between the parts as I push the bike.

Mystery.

Nige

 

[nigelb]

Headset turned out to be the ballraces not properly seated - went very loose, tightened it up, now its settling down (I gather the proper tool to tighten the cups up into the frame makes a huge difference, I'm just tightening the top nuts up as the whole thing settles and there loosens).

Replaced front brake lever, inner and outer cable, ali tube leading into the brake assembley (macaroni?) and set it properly - front brake no longer jams.

Adjusted both brake cables, to take up ~1 cms slack in each, and dug a small pile of gunge out of the rear gears and jockey wheels - gear changes are now a lot more positive! Off at lunchtime to get the right tool to change the back set (going from GG to EE?) then I need to look at the changer mechs - all seem to be cheapie plastic jobbies, adjustors on them are shot (threads trashed). Good news is there is plenty of space for an 8 gear set, so I'm basically fixing up what I can at the sec out of bits from the garage/shed, will then prob invest in a new pair of wheels, 8 speed back set, and proper selector levers.

Have ordered a new pair of pedals - any tips on removing the stubborn old ones?

Nige

 

[PpPete]

Removing pedals:
Have you got a suitable spanner?
Some of them only have a narrow hex to grip on.
Adjustable spanner won't do it I'm afraid.
Do it on the bike for max leverage.
Remember the left pedal has left hand thread.
Huge amounts of leverage:
A really really long extension bar is what's needed. 2 mtrs of old scaffold pole is a very useful weapon when dismantling old bikes !

 

[nigelb]

Thanks, so loads of brute force is the way.

Of course Halfords didn't have the freewheel removal tool, sigh.

Now ordering one via fleabay.

In their defence though they did say bring the wheel in and we'll take the old one off for you (and they also said the same about the stuck pedals!).
Must admit I wasn't expecting that level of friendliness!

Nige

 

[tyred]

With things like pedals which can be really tight, I would use a decent quality spanner (usually 15mm for cycle pedals) and hit it a hard whack with a hammer to "shock" it free.

When installing the new pedals, put grease on the threads.

 

[Rhythm Thief]

With things like pedals which can be really tight, I would use a decent quality spanner (usually 15mm for cycle pedals) and hit it a hard whack with a hammer to "shock" it free.

When installing the new pedals, put grease on the threads.

... and don't forget that the left hand pedal (I think) has a left hand thread, so it loosens and tightens the other way around from "normal".

 

[nigelb]

Guys, isn't it the right hand pedal that has a left hand thread?

 

[Rhythm Thief]

Guys, isn't it the right hand pedal that has a left hand thread?

Could well be. I can never remember until I've got the bike in front of me.

 

[Happiness Stan]

Guys, isn't it the right hand pedal that has a left hand thread?

No. Left pedal undos by turning clockwise. Right undos by turning anti clockwise.