Removing Triban 3 rear wheel

[malcermie]

I have been practicing removing my rear wheel and notice the quick release know fouls the derailleur even when pulled back, anyone else noticed this? Also when removing the wheel do you have the bike upside down or not? Have seen two different opinions on this.

 

[deptfordmarmoset]

Take the skewer off and turn it round so that the QR is on the other side. I'm an upside down person but there are many who feel this is the uncoolest thing to do, meaning I will continue just as I am!

 

[Rob3rt]

Drop chain into the small ring at the front and the little cog at the rear. Release the brake release lever, release the QR lever on wheel, push the rear mech back and down (straightening it sort of) while lifting the bike up, the wheel will drop out, move the frame to the side so the wheel becomes clear of the chain and you are done! This is the cleanest and fastest way to get the wheel out, gravity works in your favour with relation to keeping the chain out of the way. To put it back in do the same in reverse, lower the frame over the wheel making sure the cassette goes into the chain loop, lower the frame down so the chain is seated over the smallest cog, lower it right down until it settles, sometimes it will go right into place, other times it will sit somewhere close but not quite right, if the latter, make the same movement to the rear mech as when removing the wheel, the frames own weight will cause it to drop down over the wheel seating the wheel, check it is seated by pushing down on the saddle and then tighten the QR and close off the brake release.

If the QR lever is hitting the mech, it is in the wrong way, the lever should be on the non-drive side!

 

[malcermie]

Drop chain into the small ring at the front and the little cog at the rear. Release the brake release lever, release the QR lever on wheel, push the rear mech back and down (straightening it sort of) while lifting the bike up, the wheel will drop out, move the frame to the side so the wheel becomes clear of the chain and you are done! This is the cleanest and fastest way to get the wheel out, gravity works in your favour with relation to keeping the chain out of the way. To put it back in do the same in reverse, lower the frame over the wheel making sure the cassette goes into the chain loop, lower the frame down so the chain is seated over the smallest cog, lower it right down until it settles, sometimes it will go right into place, other times it will sit somewhere close but not quite right, if the latter, make the same movement to the rear mech as when removing the wheel, the frames own weight will cause it to drop down over the wheel seating the wheel, check it is seated by pushing down on the saddle and then tighten the QR and close off the brake release.

If the QR lever is hitting the mech, it is in the wrong way, the lever should be on the non-drive side!

Its the nut thats hitting the mech not the lever so a bit more practice I think!

 

[deptfordmarmoset]

Ah, I think I'm with you now! The dérailleur sort of collapses when there's no chain tension and gets in the way of the nut, is that it? You can swivel the cage out of the way by holding the cage roughly where the jockey wheels (thumb and finger by each wheel) are and this will allow the wheel to slot back in.

 

[malcermie]

Ah, I think I'm with you now! The dérailleur sort of collapses when there's no chain tension and gets in the way of the nut, is that it? You can swivel the cage out of the way by holding the cage roughly where the jockey wheels (thumb and finger by each wheel) are and this will allow the wheel to slot back in.

Yes sort of, but even pulling the mech out of the way it still fouls a bit I think I have read somewhere on here of other people having the same problem

 

[lulubel]

Yes sort of, but even pulling the mech out of the way it still fouls a bit I think I have read somewhere on here of other people having the same problem

I've had that happen on every bike I've ever owned, which is one of the reasons I prefer turning the bike upside-down. I can twist the wheel slightly, so the nut clears the chain and doesn't get mucky. It takes practice, I think.

 

[andsaw]

I have T3 and do it upside down and i had same probs and all i do is remove the nut completely and its so much easier, and being careful to keep the spring with the nut.

 

[Globalti]

The OP is right.

The frame mount for the derailleur is so far forward that it fouls the RH end of the QR and if you force the axle in, the whole lot gets jammed up and you end up getting annoyed with it. You have to unwind the QR and ensure that the end thingy is well outboard before trying to remove or refit the wheel.

BTwin tyres are quite small in width and profile and the wheel gets jammed against the bottom frame bridge so with a slightly bigger tyre the job becomes even more difficult.

It's a small point but it does take the gloss off what is otherwise a good bike.

 

[Rob3rt]

The wheel comes out of the Triban3 I have next to me right now just fine. Just took it out and put back to check some 10 times. If by fouling the rear mech you mean catching it very slightly, then toughen up and knock the wheel out!

 

[malcermie]

The wheel comes out of the Triban3 I have next to be right now just fine. Just took it out and put back to check some 10 times. If by fouling the rear mech you mean catching it very slightly, then toughen up and knock the wheel out!

Sounds like an old boss I had as an apprentice, he used to say 'Don't force it lad, use a bigger hammer!'

 

[SatNavSaysStraightOn]

Yes sort of, but even pulling the mech out of the way it still fouls a bit I think I have read somewhere on here of other people having the same problem

yep - I know exactly what you mean. It is fiddly and needs a little 'pushing' gently on mine to get it back into the appropriate 'slots' before the QR lever can go back on. I take the QR off completely which helps a touch.

 

[Rob3rt]

Sounds like an old boss I had as an apprentice, he used to say 'Don't force it lad, use a bigger hammer!'

No need to be rough, but at the same time, it is a bike not a china teacup!

 

[malcermie]

Practice, practice, practice......much better now, on and off about ten times got the hang of it.

 

[Widge]

You are doing better than me then!

I had a roadside puncture crisis in my first week and can remember having to jiggle the wheel every which way to extricate it!..........I put it down to my cack-handedness!

I put in a new tube only to find that the pump I always carry didn't pump!! Oh...how we laughed?

So - top tip - get a pump that pumps (I now have a spanky no-expense-spared Lezyne HP mini-pump. But of course....I haven't had to use it since!

It might have been just my bad luck, but I changed the tyres after that to some lightweight Rubino Pro folders which had the advantage of also lightening up the wheels somewhat. Or so I fondly imagine.

See how you get on with the the b'twin 'light,fast and comfortables'............but I have a feeling that you might want to treat her to some pukka tyres of choice. Ditto the brake-blocks. The fitted ones DO stop the bike but have no bite and are alarming in the wet. You can slot any Shimano pattern blocks into the 'b'twin' cartridge holders and I bought some Clarks triple compound 'Gold' blocks for just a few quid that were significantly better - although - compared to the 'Koolstops' on my MTB they are still a bit heart-in-mouth. But this is just the way with Road Bike calipers when compared with mtb v-brakes. It's just a matter of leverage and you get used to it.

Other than that.........I would say-ENJOY yer Triban......replace stuff as and when - nothing else about it is worthy of concern.

And yes.....

It is rather Red!

I hope you like RED!!?

PS...did you get the delicious free choco energy bars along with your useless lights and cheesy bell?

http://www.cyclechat.net/threads/my-review-of-decathlons-choco-chocolate-energy-bars.109540/

Best

w